stepside trd

Tor, the problem lies in your slave cyl. You are not getting enough pressure to engage your clutch. Go back and adjust the clutch rod to it's stock setting, and re-bleed it.

yotarob2005

any chance the throw out bearing is backwards in the clutch fork?

Toreador

throw out bearing is in correctly. i had to compare with a few pics to get it in there. . .

any word on the juice that's coming out of the master cylinder cap? should it be doing that?

is it possible that i have a disrupted line? (worn, torn, leak, etc.)

would that affect anything?

Toreador

as i mentioned before, when bleeding the slave, the juice squirts out pretty hard, it hits the inside of the passenger tire. . .

Toreador

is the clutch disc or pressure plate too big?

i should have gotten my flywheel resurfaced

fml

yayfortrees

When I replaced my clutch, I didn't resurface or replace my flywheel, and everything works fine.

If you're loosing fluid out the master reservoir, that's not good, but unless it allowed air into the system, it shouldn't be what's causing your problem. And no, it shouldn't come out the cap.

Regarding bleeding the slave cylinder, the pressure it shoots out with has nothing to do with whether or not it is bled. Get a foot or two of clear tubing that will fit the bleeder bolt, and run the other end into a junk bottle or can. When you bleed it, you will be able to tell if there are air bubbles or only fluid. You want to see only fluid, with no air bubbles.

Keep in mind, you may have to bleed the master cylinder as well. To do this, crack the line nut while somebody holds the pedal, just like when bleeding the slave cylinder. To avoid a total mess, wrap a rag around it when you crack it loose. Don't forget, brake fluid is very damaging to paint, so clean up any spills instantly. Also, when bleeding either cylinder, make sure it is re-tightened before the person releases the pedal.

If bleeding the system doesn't help, make sure the release fork is on it's pivot bolt correctly. This is kind of hard to do if you don't know the feel, but just make sure it's not real loose and can't go all over the place. (It should have a SLIGHT amount of freeplay when the pedal is released.)

Why did you replace the clutch in the first place? It might be that the slave cylinder or master cylinder is bad. The slave cylinders fail pretty regularly.

Good luck, and welcome to YT.

myyota85

if the oil sprays the tire i would say u have pressure is there ne air bubbles still?

Nevin

just had my clutch replaced... not by the dealer, just a mechanic friend. and i think i have the same issue... have to press clutch pedal to floor to get into gear. and then the first movement of releasing clutch it starts to engage.. from what i remember from factory clutch there was a little bit of play before engaging... went with napa parts maybe thats the problem....

???

myyota85

no i have a napa clutch also did he bleed it good...

Nevin

yes sir.. he said every clutch is gonna grab different. which is understandable. but it seems to me clutch life would be alot longer if you had a little play, and were nt engaging right away.

also i have a whinny noise which i thought was the rear main. but after changing that while in there. it still whines. almost sounds super charged. buddy thinks jack shaft bearing.. but sounds like the ol blinker fluid trick.. im torn 2010 4runners are so nice. hehe