Tranny prob? I think i am in deep dukey...
10-27-2009, 07:50 PM
#22
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there is nothing wrong with your trans.
your clutch is not disengagn when u push the pedal.
you should have someone push on the pedal while you look under the truck to see if the clutch fork is actually moving at all. should move abt an inch or two to fully disengage.
your clutch is not disengagn when u push the pedal.
you should have someone push on the pedal while you look under the truck to see if the clutch fork is actually moving at all. should move abt an inch or two to fully disengage.
10-28-2009, 04:37 AM
#27
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To Team 420; I am very non worky on autos, though I have done a few things, I know nothing about 4x4 work, or tranny work at all, standard or auto, though willing to learn. So where do you push the clutch, inside or underneath, with your hand? and what/where is this bracket I need to be looking at?
depending on where its broken(if it is) it may be able to be welded in the vehicle without removing anything, just be sure to keep a fire extinguisher on hand....I learned that one the hard way, and now I have some neat flame marks in the cab....lol
Heres a pic from another thread that MAY help...
Last edited by Team420; 10-28-2009 at 04:38 AM.
10-28-2009, 07:04 AM
#28
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...To peow130; when it is in neutral, you start the truck, it starts fine, and does not lurch forward. However, when engine is off, and you put it in 1st, but while in 1st, you have the clutch pushed all the way in, you try to start, it will immediately lurch forward, as if you don't have pedal pushed in.
New master cyl installed, no leaking, bled the lines twice, put in as I watched, by orig owner. Pedal does have resistance throughout it's movement.
I guess it sounds like i should try the slave cyl myself. Anyone can point me where to some pics or instructions? thanks a ton so far for the info; It sounds like I could really get ripped off from some mechs, without trying a few things first, and of course mentioned by you dudes.
And for the laughing guys, my answer is.... " We're sorry, we're new here. Yeah, we're draftees..." an homage to M.A.S.H. , and the Adam's Ribs Episode.
Newb idiots like myself have to start somewhere, a little abuse is worth it!!
For instance I am looking at that pic above, and it might as well be taken from inside
the Space Station...have no idea what I am looking at, or if it is inside or outside the truck;
I am going to guess outside underneath.
Remember, I drove it for about 1 month after PO installed new master cyl, before this prob
happened.
Also , this clutch fork- when looking underneath to see if it moves; does it actually look
like a 2 prong fork, surrounding the metal clutch rod? and when the clutch pedal is pushed,
I should see that fork move at least 1 inch?
New master cyl installed, no leaking, bled the lines twice, put in as I watched, by orig owner. Pedal does have resistance throughout it's movement.
I guess it sounds like i should try the slave cyl myself. Anyone can point me where to some pics or instructions? thanks a ton so far for the info; It sounds like I could really get ripped off from some mechs, without trying a few things first, and of course mentioned by you dudes.
And for the laughing guys, my answer is.... " We're sorry, we're new here. Yeah, we're draftees..." an homage to M.A.S.H. , and the Adam's Ribs Episode.
Newb idiots like myself have to start somewhere, a little abuse is worth it!!
For instance I am looking at that pic above, and it might as well be taken from inside
the Space Station...have no idea what I am looking at, or if it is inside or outside the truck;
I am going to guess outside underneath.
Remember, I drove it for about 1 month after PO installed new master cyl, before this prob
happened.
Also , this clutch fork- when looking underneath to see if it moves; does it actually look
like a 2 prong fork, surrounding the metal clutch rod? and when the clutch pedal is pushed,
I should see that fork move at least 1 inch?
Last edited by rangerruck; 10-29-2009 at 07:25 PM.
10-29-2009, 07:26 PM
#29
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Allright, so after last night of staying on the computer, and staying up way too late, so in checking as many other sites as possible, and looking at even googleing answers, even checking eveille Wiki, it seems the consensus is; change out the slave cylinder. Even if it is not the problem, chances are, it needed it anyway, and if you allready changed out your master clutch cylinder, it'll proly take out the slave sometime later on anyway, so just go ahead and do it!!! So I got the slave cyl. assy., got some flare wrenches, and I , the automotively challenged, shall give it a go this weekend, and I will let you know what happened, and also the degree of difficulty, Olympic style scoring only.
10-29-2009, 07:31 PM
#30
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this thread is basically what you need to do.... almost exactly what you need to do..lol...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...clutch-195231/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...clutch-195231/
10-30-2009, 04:28 AM
#32
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That pic is from inside the cab, unser the steering wheel where the clutch meets the bracket.... U have to contort yoyrself into some less than comfortable positions to get a good look, but it only takes a few min, and it does no good to replace ur slave cyl, if this bracket is in fact broken.
11-01-2009, 09:24 PM
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Not sure. I was having the same problem, and I am pretty sure my hydraulic system is fine. I read about the bracket, so i went to check mine, but its dark out and I could not see lol. Might just be out of adjustment or something
11-01-2009, 10:19 PM
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set the parking brake, block the tires , get someone to pump the clutch pedal and climb under there and see if it is moving and watch you fork also. if none of that moves then its between the pedal and the slave cylinder. if it is moving the fork, then it could be( which I hope it is not) a stuck clutch or a bad through out bearing maybe. bleed out or change the slave cylinder first. Good Luck
11-02-2009, 04:01 PM
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Okay; tried to change out the slave cyl, but could not. Lemme tell you dudes a few things, especially the newbie guys, who have not done a lot of auto work.
These are things I just found out!
1) Allways try to have your vehicle jacked up on something; wramps, bricks, wood, whatever, even if you have a jacked up 4 wheel drive, you will proly need more clearance at some point.
2) If you can't see up close, and need glasses, make sure you have some, with big eyepieces, and a strap to keep them on your head. Little Ben Franklin style reading glasses ain't gonna make it!
3)make sure you think long and hard, and do research, on taking items out , before you do. I should have removed the hardline nut FIRST, while the slave was still anchored and very still, to the tranny housing. I unanchored the slave cyl first, big mistake, becuase now the whole part is torqueing around in my right hand, while I am trying the hardline nut with my left hand...
4) Most importantly, have the right tools for the job!!!! I had a 10 mm box wrench to remove the hardline nut, but it was about as thick as a pencil, and flat, and it was about 6 inches long. Which is just long enough, to have your hand holding the end of the wrench, and now your hand is surrounded by a bottom bracket, the tranny housing, some of the slave cyl itself, etc.
Needless to say, I could get no decent angle, or torque applied, to loosen the hardline nut.Tool should have been beefier, and at least a foot long...
Okay, so I tow it to my mech, he calls me later, and says, it has def helped some, putting on slave cyl, and they can get it into gear, but it is still hard to do , and all weird and catchy and hinky. So he says, at this point it is one of 3 things; inside clutch bracket, clutch assy. kit( clutch, pressure plate, rotor, throw out bearing, etc.,) or dreaded of the dread, time for a Tranny rebuild.
Lets say I have to go the Tranny route; this is an 88' 4 rnr, whereas all the rest of it, is in great shape, well mainted, all parts internal, and electrical work, 4x4, with a 5speed manual, on a 22re engine,to include the seperate power antennae and working wipers to include the rear, and the rear window also still works; how much would it cost to rebuild the tranny, and do you think it is worth it?
These are things I just found out!
1) Allways try to have your vehicle jacked up on something; wramps, bricks, wood, whatever, even if you have a jacked up 4 wheel drive, you will proly need more clearance at some point.
2) If you can't see up close, and need glasses, make sure you have some, with big eyepieces, and a strap to keep them on your head. Little Ben Franklin style reading glasses ain't gonna make it!
3)make sure you think long and hard, and do research, on taking items out , before you do. I should have removed the hardline nut FIRST, while the slave was still anchored and very still, to the tranny housing. I unanchored the slave cyl first, big mistake, becuase now the whole part is torqueing around in my right hand, while I am trying the hardline nut with my left hand...
4) Most importantly, have the right tools for the job!!!! I had a 10 mm box wrench to remove the hardline nut, but it was about as thick as a pencil, and flat, and it was about 6 inches long. Which is just long enough, to have your hand holding the end of the wrench, and now your hand is surrounded by a bottom bracket, the tranny housing, some of the slave cyl itself, etc.
Needless to say, I could get no decent angle, or torque applied, to loosen the hardline nut.Tool should have been beefier, and at least a foot long...
Okay, so I tow it to my mech, he calls me later, and says, it has def helped some, putting on slave cyl, and they can get it into gear, but it is still hard to do , and all weird and catchy and hinky. So he says, at this point it is one of 3 things; inside clutch bracket, clutch assy. kit( clutch, pressure plate, rotor, throw out bearing, etc.,) or dreaded of the dread, time for a Tranny rebuild.
Lets say I have to go the Tranny route; this is an 88' 4 rnr, whereas all the rest of it, is in great shape, well mainted, all parts internal, and electrical work, 4x4, with a 5speed manual, on a 22re engine,to include the seperate power antennae and working wipers to include the rear, and the rear window also still works; how much would it cost to rebuild the tranny, and do you think it is worth it?
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