BlazeN8

Yoter- I am familar with the tabs you need to cut when installing a drop bracket kit. Its at the front diff crossmember? It could be a tricky welding job to fix right, and grinding it flush inside the pocket not much fun. Are all 4 holes in the tab section gone or just the ones interfereing with the diff cover mount?

BlazeN8

TC- Don't be a hater, of course there are no junk yards on the trail. Carry spare parts, my point is if something breaks its not impossible or exorbitantly expensive to replace. If something fails at high speed your dead- yep! So are you if you fall asleep at the wheel.

BlazeN8

I am leaving for Tahoe tomorrow for the Marlin Crawler Round-up #8 at Rubicon Springs. I wont be back till late next week and won't be checking internet stuff till I get back. I'll try to get some photos of the kit doiing its thing on the trail and post them when I get back.

camo31_10.50

ooooo yes pics would be verrry nice of the kit in action..

full stuff and full droop would be nice...

for me..

i'd just put it on my truck stock..no bracket lift..(that idea was just a "what if")

so what size of tires do you normally run with this setup??

33x10.50's seem like they'd be the best setup..

maybe some 285/75's..

i doubt 33x12.50's would fit..since it widens the front end by like what? 5-6" total

yoterr

with the right offset why wouldent it work?

camo31_10.50

yea if maybe you had like 4.5" backspacing or more..maybe 4.75 it MIGHT work if you pound on the fenders a little..

but i figured out..the wider or farther your tire sticks out..the more rubbing you'll have when you turn..

so even if you took a 31x10.50 on a 15.8 rim with 3.75 backspacing..its going to rub when turned and compressed..but it probably wouldnt rub on the highway..unless you were turning into a nasty driveway like mine..lol

SKULLYOTA

neato burrito! glad i swung by to check on YT after so many months. if you post pics blazeN8, i am interested in how the LCA is contructed. I do though like your ideas with the dual shock mounting, allowing one to use larger shocks or multiple shocks without worrying about interference with axleshafts or the teeny opening in the UCA.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Very interesting, pics would definately be nice.

4x4DemonWithin

so far from this thread ive gathered if this kit is legit it is the easiest and cheapest long travel kit around.......easiest as in i thought i heard some one say it is completely bolt on??

is there more than one kit or is it a kit that has evolved?
if there is more than one im looking for the simplest set up nothing special like dual shocks or anything just the cheapest kit that will give me lift and some more wheel travel.

I am also assuming that i dont have to do any thing special to keep my 4wd working too.


my selling points are mentioned above + if/when i break something i wont have to order it i just need to hit the scrap yard....wait all the local yards dont hardly have any yotas in them....there all out still on the trail or in some ones garage being modded!

if above is all true, sign me up for a kit!

BlazeN8

I have tried a bunch of tire and rim combinations, so much so my tire guy at Tucker Tire thinks I am crazy. I think the stock SR-5 aluminum rims that came on the 80's and 90's rigs are the best. See home page photo of the blazeland website. These rims are a 15x7 with a 4.5" backspace. The deep backspace and 7" width keeps the track width narrower. For a tire I like the 32x11.50 or 33x12.50 (a 1" body lift is needed for the 33" or you can hammer the firewall seam flat and run fiberglass fenders). Mfg BFG says to mount either tire on a 8.5-10" wide rim but I have been happy with it on a 7" Mfg BFg says 33x10.50 on 7" rim is recommended. I like this size too (and no flattening firewall seam or fiberglass needed) The wider sizes give more flotation. A 285/75/R16 is a good size too (sim size as 33x12.50 just a tad narrower) If you are wanting to run a 4" drop bracket kit or a coil spring behind the UCA then you want a shallower backspace, a wider rim, a narrower tire..... you get the idea . Drop bracket kits have a disclaimer that says you need a 3.5" or less backspace w/ 33x12.50 tire, I also found this to be true with a combo kit configuration.

BlazeN8

To keep it simple, what tire size works on a your rig before the Blazeland LT will work after the install. If it rubs now, it will rub after. The Blazeland LT, when compressed, is pretty much the same as where you started for the tire clearences. The extended (droop) reach is where you will get the extra travel. Measure your baseline before the install, install the LT, then add about 3" to the baseline height. The ride height is adjustable depending on torsion bar pre-load. If you crank in too much lift you won't have any additional doop, if you don't crank in any lift you wont have any additional compression. You want to balance it somewhere in the middle.

BlazeN8

You heard correct this is a bolt on kit. If you want to add additional upgrades such as dual shocks or a coil over conversion then you will need to fabricate LCA mounting tabs and shock hoops as needed on your own.

I have made other kits over the years, but this is the production model. I found this to be the best balance for simplicity, function, and cost effectivness.

You don't need anything special to keep 4wd except longer CV axel shafts. And guess what they are easy to find and cheap. Just get the ones used for the Toyota T-100, they bolt right in. They are in auto parts stores everywhere, new or remanufactured. Or call around salvage yards and buy used. Prices range from about $50-150 each.

BlazeN8

I'll be posting some action shot photos next week when I get back from the Rubicon. I will also be updating the blazeland website in the weeks to follow. That's a silly question, you wouldn't ask Superlift how they constructed one of their kits would you? Proprietary rights my friend! Yeah, the dual shocks are nice. They dissapate heat better than the single Billy's on sustained whoops but the valving is similar to the vehicle specific single shock I recommend. If your into pre-running its worth it, but for trails, street, and mild stuff not necessary and just added bling.

4x4DemonWithin

from stock how much more travel will be gained by your basic kit and no extra fab work done just your kit alone? you have stated that over all travel is 12 inches with the bump stops removed. how much more is that then stock? doesnt have to be exact just looking for an estimate gain.

and as far as i see the only way to order up a kit would be to contact you through your email right? would you be interested in putting together a all in one kit like the T-100 axls and stronger torsion bars<---i was looking to go with 35mm. so perty much i can just order from u, put my truck under the carport and lil while later drive away and go test this bad boy<---vids and pics to follow

SKULLYOTA

yes i would ask anyone about their kit. safety first right? i only wondered why you used two different means to lengthen the uppers vs. the lowers.

deathrunner

Cool idea. I definitely want to see more pics. budget long travel....sweet!

AZkid

if i had the money i'd buy this kit, regardless of what others say.

BlazeN8

Its fair to ask! I used different means to lengthen UCA vs. LCA because I was unable to build a bolt on bracket for the LCA. It would have been sweet to be able to bolt something onto the LCA because cutting and lengthening a stock one and doing a core exchange is a lot of work. I am debating selling a DIY weld up kit but am not sure it can be done without a fixture or jig to get the geometry correct for cutting or welding. Call me off line and I will disscuss it with you. (949) 903-6892

BlazeN8

I measured the stock configuration a long time ago but don't remember exactly what it was. I probably have it in some notes filed away some place? Anyway, an estimate of what I recall is stock cycles about 7-8" w/o bumpstops. So, you are going to gain about 3-4" of additional travel.
I found it is easyer to offer my componants and let you guys get the additional componants on your own. This way you are in control. This gives you the opportunity to find the best pricing, save on shipping, attain the flexibility of choosing multiple manufacturers products, and modify and upgrade to suit your preferences. I can be reached at (949) 903-6892.

SKULLYOTA

i get ya, i see how lengthening the stock arms would be very time consuming, and how hard it would be to make a bolt on for the lower arm.

any pics of it in action yet?