abecedarian

I was kind of leaning that way myself- I want the travel and the lift I already have, but ....

yoterr- 'most' bracket lifts are completely reversible: just remove the bracket and diff drops (may have to buy shorter bolts) and that's about all it takes. Some are different so that may cause an issue but, let's see what you have.

ckblum

I think his kit already provides 3-4 inches of lift, plus putting it on top of a bracket lift might be quite a big of lift. What size tires are you guys planning on running?

I hope to put 32" on once I do my LT, plus fiberglass to cover the wheels and give more room for bump.

camo31_10.50

hey..if your runnin in the mud like i do..you want BIG LIFT and BIG TIRES..and a BIG motor to turn em..LOL

so lets say 4" bracket lift+this LT kit+2" BL to help with chevy 350SB fitment=~10" lift

not bad if your runnin in mud..then you can run some 40" boggers no problem..LOL..

of course that would be ALOT of lift..and it would probably make a great show truck with the combined lifts..

ckblum

I guess it shouldn't be too topsy cause the kit does make you 3" wider per side. I'm just into different style of off roading, big tires and lift doesn't make a whole lotta difference hitting fast single tracks and sand bars and most of the time it's about balancing power with the amount your suspension can handle. My 22re is plenty right now for a mid-travel kit, would be pretty hard for that motor to outrun that much travel unless I really tuned it with coil-overs and a bypass but that's outta my budget. Plus running 32" tires doesn't require a lot of power to get them spinning compared to a 35-42".

Mud doesn't really require a lot of travel does it? I never really hit mud unless its a side effect of rain on the roads so I don't have a lot of experience bogging or anything.

camo31_10.50

no it doesnt require alot of travel..

but why put up with a harsh @$$ ride on the rode in a IFS mud toy..when you can put on this LT kit and get a better ride..plus more lift to fit a bigger tire..HAHAHAHAHA

BlazeN8

Hey guys! I am the guy behind the Blazeland Long Arm kit. I read through most of the discussion. I have been building this kit for three years now and there are a numer of customers and test subjects who are currently wheeling on the kit. The kit has run the Rubicon, Fordice, Pre Run the Baja 250 twice, and has been raced in some unsanctioned bs races here and there. Please, no more guinea pigs remarks! I don't even know where to jump in on this discussion, there are so many issues that have been brought up. I guess I should address is the UCA extension bracket / ball joint spacer. There seems to be some confusion on its design and strength. Yes it is bolted to a stock UCA. All you need to do is enlarge the (4) holes where the ball joint attaches to the arm. Then just bolt the bracket into place. Its not just a flat plate, the photos don't show the third dimension. Its a three dimentional two piece bracket laser cut from 1/4 steel plate MIG welded together. It clamps over and under the arm. The cross sectional distance at the thinnest point is about 2". I have not experienced failure in any of my testing, neither have my customers. Before I designed the Blazeland kit, I experienced failure of a tubular UCAs that Rancho once made. The Rancho kit was obsolete and there were no replacement parts, so I began developing my own LT kit. What I came up with worked great and cycled 13" but I stuffed the front end of my truck into a ditch and bent stuff up pretty good. I had a difficult time re-making the custom "one off" arm and the truck was out of commision for weeks. Even if its a production model still being made, no one will honor a warranty for a crash! In offroading everything is breakable. Each time a monster truck enters the the arena what happens, something breaks. A huge percentage of the field in an offroad race is DNF due to mechanical failure. My concept is if you bend a stock UCA, simply replace it with another one. Unbolt the Blazeland UCA bracket, get another stock UCA at a salvage yard (for $25 bones) and bolt it all back together. Same goes for most of the other parts related to the kit. Ball joints, tie rod ends, torque arms, UCAs, bushings, what ever! Its all easy to find stuff at a salvage yard or your local auto parts store.

I'll check back with you guys tomorrow or the next day. If anyone has any specific questions write them down and I'll do my best.

Nate

abecedarian

speak of the devil. Welcome back Nate.

Thanks for the input. I'll likely contact you in the next few days and maybe we can hook up.

Any considerations with running the kit on a vehicle which already has a bracket type lift- one using stock uppers and lowers? Such as the ProComp or similar kits?

camo31_10.50

is this kit compatible with say..BJ spacers???

it should be compatible with Bracket lifts right???

so if we buy the LT kit from you...what all do we get EXACTLY???

somebody gave a list of extra stuff you had to buy in order to put it all together???

ckblum

Good to hear from you Nate welcome to the forum, glad you posted.

And yea I am curious about the BJ spacer too, could you run a 1" spacer and gain an additional inch of travel or does the UCA extender already act as a spacer? (kinda looks like it drops down a bit)

swapped89

If yer gonnago Long Travel your kit should look a lil more like this

ckblum

Nah. TC is rad and if I could poop my monies faster I would be down for that, but in the end that set up ends up costing over 5X the price. I have lots of other hobbies so budget doesn't really permit, plus I like experimenting and making different things work instead of always doing typical bolt on stuff.

BlazeN8

The Blazeland UCA bracket is a ball joint spacer (about 1.5") and it also extends the balljoint outwards (a little over 3") so you wouldn't want to install a BJ spacer again. However, I have doubled up the Blazeland kit with a 4" Drop Bracket kit. It was pretty freaken high but cleared 35" tires!

BlazeN8

You will get about 3-4" of "lift" from the Blazeland LT kit. The wheel travel is about 12" This measurement is taken with bump and droop stops (rubber snubbers) removed. This means the metal of the arms contacts the metal of the bracket that holds the stops. This is the theoretical maximum. This is the standard way to measure travel numbers. FYI- there are different requirements one must consider when setting the "actual" working limits. When you set your working limits you need to consider the CV axels, the ball joints, and the tie rod ends working limits. I designed the travel of the kit to work with the stock components. On another note, the stock bump stops have a metal backing plate for exrtra strength and they are really thick with lots cushion as they compress. I'd stay away from aftermarket "low profile" bump stops with the Blazeland LT.

AZkid

now ow about a yotatech discount

Jay351

Why? So he can have a truck that'l ride like ass at high speeds?

Theres a reason prerunners don't use a SFA

yoterr

yeah i allready have 35" tires and another 3" on top of my 7" of lift is kinda in the wrong direction that i wanna go with my truck but yeah camo i know what ur talking about hehe just not my cup o tee anymore i like the climbing unclimbable stuff now..and ill get a pic of the bracket lift that i have and the tabs that got cut off so you guys can see prolly tmr cuz i think ill be working on it, and blaze its gotta be the coolest idea for a lift ive seen in a while, most of the parts your braking are going to be stock parts that you can get out of a junkyard, friggin awesome!!! and if you could get more pics of the lift and how it cycles and stuff that would be pretty cool, cuz as you said we cant see the whole thing...

tc

Um - they have junkyards on the trail where you go 'wheeling? Anything here breaks and you're stuck on the trail. Breaks at speed and you're pretty much dead.

I'm encouraged that the bolts are bigger than stock, but let's say I'm still skeptical.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

x2
this balljoint setup just looks sketchy as hell. seems like any decent sized hit from landing from even a small a jump would just rip this thing apart from the added stress on the stamped upper arms.

BlazeN8

Sure contact me offline at www.blazelandn8@yahoo.com and we can work something out!

BlazeN8

It only seems sketchy untill you actually have it in your hands, view it from all angles and bolt it onto an arm. When I first built it it was a temporary thing I came up with to figure out geometry when I built my own LT tubular arms. Then I refined it and I started driving on it. Before I new it I was pre-running the baja 250 and building them for my friends. The thing works! Its been wheeled on for 3 years now and on multiple rigs in all sorts of terrain with out failure. What you see in the picture is the original one. I cut it out from my cadd file drawings with a sawzall and drill press then welded it up in my garage with my mig welder. The design has evolved since then and now everything is laser cut with interlocking tabs, its welded by a certified welder, and its professionally powdercoated. What you see in the picture is not showcaseing the UCA bracket it is just showing a dual shock option.