torsion bar adjustment...help!
#1
torsion bar adjustment...help!
I bought my 94 yota pickup a few months ago and it had 3" blocks on the rear and the torsion bars cranked way up for the front. I finally got around to it today to remove the blocks in the, install all new shocks, and put the torsion bars back to normal.
Those adjusting bolts aren't hardly moving!! If I turn the bottom bolt head, the top nut turns too. Plus, it takes all I have to turn it. So, without a buddy today, it was pretty much impossible to hold a wrench on the top nut and turn the bottom bolt head.
Any tricks to this? Do I need to just get a buddy over to hold the top nut while I crank on the bottom bolt?
Thanks!!!
Those adjusting bolts aren't hardly moving!! If I turn the bottom bolt head, the top nut turns too. Plus, it takes all I have to turn it. So, without a buddy today, it was pretty much impossible to hold a wrench on the top nut and turn the bottom bolt head.
Any tricks to this? Do I need to just get a buddy over to hold the top nut while I crank on the bottom bolt?
Thanks!!!
#2
Yes, there is a little trick....Take a closer look at the nut on the top......you will see it's actually TWO nuts. They are locked together. You have to break them loose.
If you lift the front end up by it's center section then the adjuster bolt will turn easier.
If you lift the front end up by it's center section then the adjuster bolt will turn easier.
#7
You're going to need two new bolts, I've broken those dang things so many times, mainly from dirt and stuff making it way up in between the nut and the bolt. Even with liberal amounts of penetrating oil, they broke.
Trending Topics
#11
Originally Posted by UGATruck
Mine does not have the two nuts. Just one. Yes, I've been jacking it up via the front center IFS bar.
#12
Originally Posted by crackerjack
is the torsion bar ajustment where I go to get one of my tires that tilt in from the top?
nope, torsion bars adjust ride height and spring preload.... camber is what your thinking of... go get an alignment
#13
ok thx 4 reply was just layin under my trk lookin at all the places that have adjustment so if i screw torsion bar it will raise my trk ie getme just the 1/2 inch i need to get away from rubbib finder
#14
2 questions:
1 - should I take the wheels off when I jack it up and attempt to adjust the torsion bars?
2 - to replace the bolts with new ones, is it simply just pull the old ones out and put the new ones in? surely there is something else to it or otherwise how would adjusting a bolt adjust the torsion bar?
Thanks!
1 - should I take the wheels off when I jack it up and attempt to adjust the torsion bars?
2 - to replace the bolts with new ones, is it simply just pull the old ones out and put the new ones in? surely there is something else to it or otherwise how would adjusting a bolt adjust the torsion bar?
Thanks!
#15
Originally Posted by UGATruck
2 questions:
1 - should I take the wheels off when I jack it up and attempt to adjust the torsion bars?
2 - to replace the bolts with new ones, is it simply just pull the old ones out and put the new ones in? surely there is something else to it or otherwise how would adjusting a bolt adjust the torsion bar?
Thanks!
1 - should I take the wheels off when I jack it up and attempt to adjust the torsion bars?
2 - to replace the bolts with new ones, is it simply just pull the old ones out and put the new ones in? surely there is something else to it or otherwise how would adjusting a bolt adjust the torsion bar?
Thanks!
1: Nope, leave em on
2: Yep, thats all there is to it.. the bolt is about 4" long, the tighter it is the more "preload" you put on the torsion bars.. the looser it is the less "preload"... you'll see when you take them out.
#16
My 86 4Runner has two nuts on the top. I'm gonna be installing some BJ Spacers and will probably uncrank the front a little. I can't get the top nut loose though. Anyone have any techniques on getting the locknut loose?
#18
Originally Posted by UGATruck
Would it be good when I put the new ones in to coat the heck out of them with anti-sieze so that they won't get frozen again?
BTW adjusting the t-bars will effect your camber adjustment, so you may need an alignment afterwards if you do much adjusting.
The older trucks have 2 nuts on top and the newer style only have 1 nut which you don't even need to hold while turning the adjustment bolt, very easy.
Rusted bolts make a real bear out of any simple job. I don't know how you guys in the NE get any work done on those rust buckets.
You must buy PB Blaster by the case.
#19
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yes, I cover mine so thick with grease you can't see the threads and they adjust very easy that way. I can adjust mine down without raising the front end because of the lubrication.
Originally Posted by mt_goat
I don't know how you guys in the NE get any work done on those rust buckets.
You must buy PB Blaster by the case.
You must buy PB Blaster by the case.
#20
OK, I worked on it today. I was able to get one adjusted so I went to the other side. I broke that sucker clean before it budged any.
Off to Toyota tomorrow to get new bolts. I'll probably go ahead and do the other side while I'm at it. Glad I just bought some multipurpose grease cause I'm gonna coat the heck outta them suckas.
Off to Toyota tomorrow to get new bolts. I'll probably go ahead and do the other side while I'm at it. Glad I just bought some multipurpose grease cause I'm gonna coat the heck outta them suckas.




