Torn CV Boot....argghh
#1
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Torn CV Boot....argghh
Just finished replacing water pump/timing belt/power steering pump.... and i noticed the exploded cv grease everywhere....
never done cvs on this type of vehicle... qualified mechanic yet need some input on these trucks....
95 Runner 3.0 4x4 5 speed
never done cvs on this type of vehicle... qualified mechanic yet need some input on these trucks....
95 Runner 3.0 4x4 5 speed
#3
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this might help
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/
#4
Its pretty easy to figure out on the fly, not a tough job if you spend 20 min reading past CV boot threads. I even did a write up.
Well my inner CV boot was spitting grease and it was getting worse after every time I locked the hubs. I replaced the boots with Beck-Arnley replacement boots. Toyota boots were hideously expensive. The whole job took about 4 hrs with breaks rain, and a tire rotation etc.
Removing the CV axle
Replacing the CV boot
Assembly is reverse removal.
Link for more IFS maintenance. This writeup also has pictures of the stuff I am describing.
Removing the CV axle
- Park truck on flat level ground, set parking brake well and chock the wheels either side of the axle your working on.
- Unbolt the CV- diff flange. I had already removed the studs when the diff was on my driveway pre-install.
- Remove tire and the hub. To do this, remove the front hub cover (dial in centre) undo the brass- coloured bolt/washer in the centre of the axle. Cone washers are removed by beating on the hub directly above the cone washer. Its a pain.
- I disconnected my swaybar as I have quick disconnects, but not sure if its necessary to be honest, but its easier to unbolt the opposite side now, then later.
- Remove the C-clip and splined washer beneath the hub
- Now, go around to the back of the truck and jack up the wheel diagonally opposed to the CV you're working on
- Go back to the front and place jack under the lower ball joint. You're trying to compress the suspension so that the outer CV doesn't catch on the lower A-arm.
- Undo the bolt connecting the shock to the LCA (lower control arm)
- CV should slide out. Watch that the swaybar endlink doesn't tear the outer CV boot.
Replacing the CV boot
- Break the clamps (metal bands) holding the boot to the axle
- Slit the boot and remove, with as much of the grease as possible. DO NOT pull the tripod out of the socket yet.
- Wipe out the old grease with paper towel, took me about a quarter of a roll. DO NOT use parts cleaner, the residue is incompatible with the grease and boot. Just get as much as possible with paper towels.
- Match mark the tripod joint to the inner CV socket, so that each of the three lobes goes back into its original place. This is a bearing actually, so this stuff does matter.
- Pull the tripod joint out of the socket after matchmarking.
- Clean off the end of the tripod joint well enough to match mark the splined shaft to the tripod itself.
- Remove the C-clip and pull the tripod joint off the splined shaft.
- Slide the small clamp, then CV boot over the axle, so that the boots sits on in the grove on the shaft. This is obvious when do it. Slip the clamp over the end of the boots and pull tight with pliers, maybe 5lbs pull. Fold the tag end over close the fingers. Should be obvious when doing it.
- Coat the socket and bearing surfaces of the tripod joint with the grease provided with the boots. Eat the rest of the foul grease in one swallow. The package says you should worry if TWO mouthfuls are swallowed, thus one mouthful should be fine. It actually says this.
- Put ever the axle back together making sure to line up the match marks. Clamp the outer boot in place AFTER letting some of the air out of the joint. I just guessed on this part by looking at it. Basically, there shouldn't be too much air in the boot.
Assembly is reverse removal.
Link for more IFS maintenance. This writeup also has pictures of the stuff I am describing.
Last edited by Matt16; 10-24-2009 at 01:27 AM.
#6
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I may need to do a CV joint soon. What tools are required for the entire replacement? I was looking over some of the writeups and manuals and can't find a list of socket sizes (deep sockets or not?)
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#8
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This happened on our subaru and I ended up having to put it all back together. Was a waste of time. At the end of the wheel there was a huge nut. Not sure what the full size was, because we couldnt find a socket big enough.
Last edited by DupermanDave; 11-09-2009 at 04:58 PM.
#9
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You'll expect: 6 17mm(i think) bolts on the CV flange
1 12mm gold bolt on the inside of the hub.
6 12mm bolts holding on the hub
6 10mm bolts holding on the dial-face
1 snap ring on the CV.
6 cone washers.
No super long sockets, just regular ones.
I suggest a breaker bar/PB Blaster/any other penetrating fluid for the CV bolts.
1 12mm gold bolt on the inside of the hub.
6 12mm bolts holding on the hub
6 10mm bolts holding on the dial-face
1 snap ring on the CV.
6 cone washers.
No super long sockets, just regular ones.
I suggest a breaker bar/PB Blaster/any other penetrating fluid for the CV bolts.
#10
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You'll expect: 6 17mm(i think) bolts on the CV flange
1 12mm gold bolt on the inside of the hub.
6 12mm bolts holding on the hub
6 10mm bolts holding on the dial-face
1 snap ring on the CV.
6 cone washers.
No super long sockets, just regular ones.
I suggest a breaker bar/PB Blaster/any other penetrating fluid for the CV bolts.
1 12mm gold bolt on the inside of the hub.
6 12mm bolts holding on the hub
6 10mm bolts holding on the dial-face
1 snap ring on the CV.
6 cone washers.
No super long sockets, just regular ones.
I suggest a breaker bar/PB Blaster/any other penetrating fluid for the CV bolts.
I guess all I need is a breaker bar and some snap ring pliers.
#12
Banned
Both of mine are torn. I am just going to replace the cv boots, joints, and all that good stuff pretty soon. They have about 220000 miles on them. My boss gets me great deals on stuff
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