Well on my 91 22r moter I took the timing chain and everything apart without finding tbc on the motor.
I did not turn the crank shaft or anything.
So I am wondering. If I take all the nuts off for the valves will this allow me to rotate the crank shaft to find tdc without me cracking a piston?

I searched however I don't think anyone has ever done anything this stupid.

I have replaced the chain before however I had read the instructions back then. I didn't do it this time.

 

According to the Manual, http://web.archive.org/web/201209071.../1descript.pdf the 22re is a non-interference engine (due to depressions in the piston heads). The Peanut Gallery, on the other hand, seems to be evenly split. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2...uestion-71733/

If it's non-interference, then you can turn the crank with the timing chain off (and the valves set); it makes no difference. But if you don't believe Toyota's own manual, well, let the Peanut Gallery speak!

 

ok thanks for letting me know. I actually did not use the manual last time. last time I changed the chain was about 8 years ago. I down loaded a link from this sight that said that it was a engine that would mess up the pistons so I thought I would ask before I went to far.
the link that I downloaded I printed it out and kept it with the manual all these years.
it actually only has about 85,000 miles on the chain but since it is all apart after hitting a deer I decided to go ahead and put another on one.


the link was or went into greater detail that the manual.


anyway I do believe you so I will just go ahead and start putting everything back together.


just wondering though. by backing off the nuts that adjust the valves would this prevent the pistons from hitting the valves?

 

the manual that you link to makes no claim that the 22re is non-interference. it states only that there are relief cuts in the pistons to avoid interference with the valves. it omits the qualifier "when correctly in time". which means when out of time, there is potential for valve-piston contact.

wally

 

that is a very good read and very interesting. at almost 400,000 miles with the same pistons I believe this Is one of the best motors ever made lol

 

I did the same thing when I pulled the head off my 22re last fall (doH) and was able to put it right with my Haynes manual and my FSM. Not terribly difficult-just follow the instructions and proceed carefully.

 

that is kinda the same but totally different. pulling the head off would totally eliminate the concern for piston damage since pulling the head would also remove the valves.


in my case I am trying to find tdc with the head on and the valves in place.


I don't want to do outside and turn the crank and burst a piston.

 

What I would do...

When the crankshaft is at TDC, the number 1 and 4 pistons are at their highest point in the bore, and the 2 and 3 pistons are at the lowest point in the bore. When the indicator on the pulley is 180 degrees away from the TDC mark, the 2 and 3 pistons are at their highest point and 1 and 4 are at the lowest point. When the indicator is 90 degrees left or right of TDC, all pistons are at the midpoint in the bore and will not make contact with the valve.

First, move the crankshaft timing indicator in the shortest possible direction so that it is either 90 right or 90 left of TDC. Again make sure that your are moving it whatever direction is shortest, this will ensure that the highest pistons are moving in the downward direction. (Just make sure the crank does not move more than 90 degrees to get it to the 90 left or 90 right position). The indicator on the crankshaft pulley will be at the 3 or 9 o'clock position.

Now that all pistons are at the mid point position in the bore, you are free to move the camshaft to its TDC position without damaging a valve.

Once the camshaft is at the TDC position, move the crankshaft in the shortest direction to get it to TDC. The 1 and 4 pistons will now be moving up, which is where they would be if the chain was connected. Don't turn it more than 90 degrees to get it to TDC.

Your cam and crank are now timed.

 

thanks every one


I put the old chain back on and the sprockets back as close to the way they came off. then I removed the spark plugs.
then I very slowly turned it to where I thought it was at tdc. I also looked at the rocker arms to see which ones had play in it and which ones were tight. so I think this also tells me it is at tdc too.
so far I have put the new chain sprockets and oil pump back on. I will do some more later.
hopefully all is good

 

 

interesting cam sprocket you've got. no holes.

 

I will have to look at the old one. I did not notice. Came from orileys

 

shouldn't affect operation.

might be an issue if trying to replace the chain. the bolt takes some force to remove, and the holes allow for the use of a tool to hold the sprocket in place while unbolting.

 

Where did you get that cam sprocket? Ya no holes never seen that before. This should be an easy fix. Turn the crankshaft until the key is at 12 o'clock and just check that the first exhaust rocker is loose indicating your #1 and #4 piston is at tdc. If the 1st exhaust rocker is tight turn the crank one full revolution until the key is at 12 o'clock again and not your #1 rock arm will be loose indicating your at tdc for #1 and 4 cylinder. Stab the distributor in and jam down the road for a few hundred thousand miles.

 

Sorry I mean to say ( If the 1st exhaust rocker is tight turn the crank one full revolution until the key is at 12 o'clock again and NOW* your #1 rock arm will be loose indicating your at tdc for #1 and 4 cylinder.)

 

I guessed at the distributor location by a picture that I saw on this sight.
That bad boy started right up. Lol. Still have to put several parts back on but it sounded good.