91_4x4runner

I'm going to start by saying that I know hardly anything about tires/wheels. I understand that our 4Runners lug pattern is 6-5.5, thats about the extent.

This is I suppose techincally the beginning of my build-up. I'd like to lift about 4" and cram some 35"s under it. That "should" be possible from what I've read. I'd like to lift 4" and have good CV angles. What is the most effective/cheapest lift I can purchase? I'd really rather stick with a suspension lift.

After I get the lift, I'd like to get a set of Mickey Thompson Classic II's. I believe that 15x8 would be the correct size for 35x12.5-15?

Now on to tires. I want a tire that has a really aggressive off-road pattern (I'd like to steer clear of TSL's), but good on-road manners. I plan on mudding mostly. I have to travel quite far from SA to get some decent rocks. I need a tire that will last me a good way through college. I've already got some 31x10.5 Michelin LTX/MS on the stock alloys with great tread left. They will be my mostly on-road tire and should last me for quite a while longer assuming I don't do anything stupid.

Let me know your suggestions and whatnot. And how stupid my idea's are...

After this I've got a laundry list of things to do such as hope my 3.0 stays alive. If that falls through, I've got a 3.4 spotted and my parents might be willing to hook me up with some money.

Elton

the 15x8s will be fine ... are you going to regear it for the 35s

91_4x4runner

Would It be that big of a difference between 31" and 35"? I know it's going to be a dog going from 10.5 to 12.5, but I'm not too worried. In theory, I'd be running lower rpm's and get slightly better gas mileage wouldn't I?

Plus the runner will be a complete dog.

EDIT: How much/how difficult would be it to regear? I know that the lift/tires is already going to be expensive, but gears ontop of that :-(

91ToyTrck

I was running stock gears when I had my 92 pickup running 4 suspension 3 body and 35x12.50. I was getting around 250 miles per tank with that setup. I could use my 5th gear on the interstate, but not very much around town. I wasn't wheeling this truck either. she was all street, but I wasn't unhappy with the gearing vs tires I was running. I'm sure you would be happier with a different gearing, but it wont kill you.

AH64ID

I have the lift/ tire combo you are talking about. I also have 4.88's, and when I go wheeling I still wish my gearing was lower.

Any of the 4" bracket lifts will give you good angles with the CV's, personally I like procomp stage II. I think the rear for the runner sucks, it actually ripped my axle housing on my 95.

Tires, BFG Muds. Its what i run now, on a 15x8 with (I think) 3.75" backspacing. I had to do a little trimming front and rear but no rubby rubby.

The differnce between 10.5 and 12.5 wont be the big deal, it will be the extra 20 puonds a tire and much larger rolling radius. Yes your rpm's will be lower, but it takes a bunch more power to spin heavy tires. 35 BFG muds weigh about 63 lbs, then add the weight of your rims... its heavy.

91_4x4runner

When you say you wish your gearing was lower, do you mean like 5.29^ or 4.56 4.11 (because that doesn't make alot of sense). I can see higher (i guess it'd be considered higher? 5.29?) gearing to keep the tires spinning but not anything lower than 4.11.

Can you point me a link of the procomp stage II lift?

91_4x4runner

Alright, I looked at the Pro Comp lift. $1110.99 US for a 4" lift. That includes the brackets, relocation stuff, shocks, and then the brake lines. And thats 1/3 of the cost of an SAS. What the hell. How annoying. The kit doesn't even look that complex. :-(

91_4x4runner

bump for more help?

AH64ID

When refering to gears, numerically lower is a higher gear, and numerically higher is a lower gear. So if I were to go lower from 4.88 it would be 5.29, if I were to go higher it would be 4.56....

Yeah its 1/3 the cost of a SAS, but are you counting rear in that SAS too?

91_4x4runner

I believe I am. I just feel that the cost is outrageous. Anyone selling a used one? I do like this lift more than just a body lift though. And it seems like it'd be durable. Is anyone else here on the forum running it? Speak up.

Bobakazi

A big help for us to help you would be to know if you have an auto or manual. If you want to run 35" tires or larger, (whether auto or manual) I would run 5.29 Gears.
As far as rims, a 2" width difference between your rims and tires is really good. I have never tried it before, but I think running 12.50 tires on 8" rims is really pushing it.

91_4x4runner

I've got a manual. My friend is running 39x15 on 15x10... but maybe it's different with larger tires.

91ToyTrck

I think it comes down to the driver and how they want to run on the steet. I was fine running my truck with 35x12.50 and stock gears. I don't see what the big deal with that is really I don't. I had to change gears to go up a hill, but some people do that with stock rim/tire combos anyways. I was getting 250 miles per tank and it wasn't hurting anything. I had 150K on my truck and had been running the 35s for about 45K w/out any troubles.

You might want to PM Cootees. He was telling me about someone selling a 4" bracket lift for around $400 ... might be something you could look into if your going that route.

91_4x4runner

Thanks, I'll pm him.

Bobakazi

As far as tire/rim combos, the further the dimensions are apart, the more likely the tire will pop off the bead.
As far as gears, it depend on what you use your rig for. Check out this chart.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm
Do you see where 4.11s cross the 35" tires? That rpm level assumes a 1:1 gear ratio (4th gear in a manual). When you put it into 5th, your rpms will be lower yet. The point is: it is possible to run bigger tires with stock gears, but it will be slower and feel like it has much less power. You can always throw on the lift and tires, and feel how it rides compared to now, and then decide if you want to swap out gears. If you get to that point and decide you want to swap, (and you have the money for it) I would highly recommend a locker(s) of some sort.

shawnhog

I just did the ProComp lift (4"), and I am running on 33X12.5R15 ProComp Mud/T's on 15x8 black steel Rock Crawler wheels (3.75 backspacing). I just did all that you are talking about, and I also own a 1991 4Runner, as well.

I would definently say that 35" tires is "cramming it," and I am running without rear bumpers or running boards! Actually, if you are planning on welding the front bumpers yourself, fab up a new set of rear bumpers, too; as it is a good bit easier than the front! my brand-new 33" tires actually fit perfectly when my rear axle is articulated, sliding like butter into the wheelwell! I am just saying, don't ignore the 33's, as they are a great size for our application..

Unfortunately, if you get the same lift as me, it is likely you might get a bit of driveline vibration, as is my problem right now. I am trying to find out how to fix that, and I will send along some info to you, if you need it.

For mudding, maybe look into getting a turbodiesel from Jarco. There are a few threads on this board that will help point you in the right direction at a good price, too (similar to the 3.4); and the mileage boost might be worth it, I think.

I have never had any problems with 15x8 on 33 OR 35, on both a 4Runner, and my old pickup. I really do not think that there is any real problem there, and this is coming from an idiot kid who literally jumped his '89 F150 that was on 35X12.5 and 15x8 tire/wheel combo. If the combo can handle a 6,000lb truck, it can handle a 4Runner.

91_4x4runner

I was reading up on the turbo diesels and they seem to cost about 2x-2.5x as much as the 3.4 swap (about 2k). If there is a cheap diesel that I don't know about that would be a good swap, I'd certainly like to know about it. Also, I'd like to have your info on the driveline vibration if you can pm it to me, Thanks.