so do i have to remove the pan or can i work with it on tips please with the IFS in the way!

 

You can do it with the pan in place, but I would recommend pulling the oil pan to clean out the pieces of the broken guides that settle there. I would also clean off the oil pickup tube screen if there are pieces of guides or other things stuck on it.

I think I remember reading somewhere that you can lift the engine 4" with a cherry picker to get the oil pan off. I would assume that the motor mounts would have to be unbolted to do that. If I find a link to where I read that then I will post it.

 

Here is a timing chain walk through:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

Step #16 has some information about the oil pan.

 

We tried it first with the pan and head on and ended up destroying both gaskets. We couldn't get the dowels to line up on the bottom at all with the pan on. Bad part is that we went ahead and put it together and sealed everything up and had major oil leaks when it was done and had to tear it all back down.

Of course, then second time I found out I bent the valves and had to go back in, and the third time I just stripped everything back down and did it right and it's been fine since.

If your guides came apart there's a bunch of junk in the bottom of the pan that needs to be cleaned out anyway.

When you go in, go in to fix it right the first time. Take off the pan and head and do it right the first time and you'll save time and money in the long run.

 

pull the pan.

 

Yea i'll find a way to get the motor up in the air!
but i'm not pulling the head there is no reason for that!

I seen the ways around it!

 

I just did mine after a chain brakage. I just dropped the pan as much as possible, disconnected the steering stabalizer (to get my arm in there) and dug out the chain and plastic from the pan. I used a magnet as well. I have done 4 chain sets (4 different trucks) now and have never had a leak. I leave the head on and loosen the pan usually. Just pop the front of the gasket seal on the pan so you have room to get the chain cover in and out (if yo are not digging anything out). Put a dab of silicone on the corners where the cover meets the head gasket and some on the bottom of the cover for the pan. I also never use the silicone on the cover itself. Just some grease to hold the gaskets where I want them. I also leave the cover loose and tighten the bolt that goes through the head first as it is the only one putting force on the head seal, let the other bolts pull the cover in.

 

What is IFS

 

you are kidding. independent front suspension=IFS

 

Its really not that hard to take the suspension apartand drop the diff alittle; of course the first time is not fun.

 

When I did my chain I was terrified of taking the diff out. I did everything I could to not do it and was finally successful. Later when I did my lift I found out how easy it was and kicked myself.

You're right about it, it isn't that bad of a job at all.

 

X2 X2

Its worth the trouble to remove the front diff. Once you get the pan nicely out of there, you can do a GOOD job of sealing it properly and neatly, best to do it ONCE. ;-) One day you're going to need to replace a CV or two, pulling the stuff out now gives you the opportunity to do the tulip-bolt-removal procedure, making it much easier to get the axles out when you need to down the road. Or, do a maintenance replacement while its out...

 

trust me drop the pan and clean it out real good i just learned the hard way thru the wallet small metal chuncks in my new turbo ouch

 

Well ya if its a turbo you don't want to screw around. Doesn't take much to kill those bearings. The rest of the engine can deal with some crap until the filter gets it. Its a TOYOTA after all!!