2ToyGuy

I know I'm not the highest mileage guy here, either. My pickup, whom I call T1, or Little Truck, has 376,000 miles on it. I flush the cooling system every other year, including the thermostat and hoses. I use OEM whenever I can. Am I overcautious? Am I wasting money on things I don't need? Maybe. Maybe. But the truck still runs strong, and most of it's still factory. The head and gasket, the rest of the engine, really, the drive line, transmission, and so forth.
I do the same sort of thing with the oil, and it's filter. Every 5,000 miles. No, I don't keep the old filter I use Castrol Syntec 10W30, and have since I bought the truck. Long story as to why, but it wound up that my air cooled bike got hotter than heck during a parade in Yuma, but the oil withstood the overheat like a dream. Been using it ever since. I used the Purolator 300001 filter. Works like a dream. I'm going to the YZZD3 now, though, as they're some of the best out there.
I replace the belts every year, too, and keep the old ones in the back, like I do with the hoses. Again, overcautious? Perhaps.
I change the oil in the transmission and the diff every 5 years, give or take.

I do the same with my 87 4Runner. It's only got 175,000 miles on it, since I got it for driving the kids around, and for when there was bad weather in Yuma. VERY rare happenstance indeed. Maybe 3 days with weather events a year. The only major failures I've had with that are a warped head, thanks to a "friend" overheating it by throwing the belt that runs the water pump, the all metal 3-core radiator blew it's top, and the cabin fuse block caught fire back in December. I replaced the head, and the radiator. My mechanic friend is replacing the fuse block. He's got to take the entire dash to replace the whole wiring harness. That's why HE is doing it, not me. It's also why we got the 99 4Runner The pickup just doesn't do snow worth a darn.
I took the 4Runner in to check an odd noise I'd heard when in 4WD in the snow last year, and the mech opened the transmission filler plug to check the oil level. He asked if I had just changed the oil in the tranny. Nope, and 3 or 4 years ago. It was like new. Maybe I over change it, but heck, I'll take the compliment

I plan on doing roughly the same maintenance schedule on the 99. Again, overcautious? Perhaps. Probably. But my 2 87 vehicles lasted me this long, not counting the 4Runner's troubles. I think my overcaution has payed off in reliability, and longevity. Either that, or I'm just one lucky SOB I'd rather be lucky than good though...

Have fun all!
Pat☺

jay4runner

When you say YZZD3 do you mean the Toyota branded one? I wonder who makes the Toyota oil and filter - I think I heard at one point it was Mobil1 that made both. I usually use the mobil1 (get when its on for half price). I guess I assume it is really good because it is usually so pricey. Actually, a question I have as an owner of a 1990 22RE - should I be using synthetic or regular. I did use synthetic for a while but went back to reg as i seemed to be getting oil leaking (although that wouldn't necessarily be the oil's fault). Now with a new oil pan gasket etc I'm hoping that will improve.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

The Toyota part number is 90915-YZZD3. It's super cheap from the dealership or online and has been shown by multiple sources to be the best constructed filter available.

Synthetic or conventional are both fine. I use diesel oil since it has higher ZDDP. Realistically though these are low performance engines without any fancy oil operated solenoids or hydraulic lifters so pretty much any oil is going to be completely adequate. Just change it.

jay4runner

I didn't think anything was cheap at the dealership - at least not where I live. But I will certainly ask about it. I did get the toyota filter a couple times via amazon

jay4runner

I see online (amazon) these filters are stamped with Denso in small letters at the bottom and made in Thailand. The YZZD3 would be for my 2003 4Runner and the YZZD1 for my 1990. I did read somewhere a while back that you can also get the straight Denso labelled filters but that you needed to maybe consider where they were made - there were 2 places as I recall - one version theoretically good and the other maybe not quite as good.

old87yota

The Toyota 90915-YZZD1 is what is actually specified for the 22R series engines. The 90915-YZZD3 is essentially the same filter but is larger (many people like having extra filtering capacity, but with regular oil changes, it does not matter).

Depending on where you live, many dealerships are starting to carry the 90915-YZZG2 (made by Purolator) instead of 90915-YZZD1 (made by Denso). Toyota shows both filters being applicable to the 22R series engines. The 90915-YZZG2 has been around for a long time, but hasn't hit much of the US market until a year or two ago.

Edit: I have seen different internal construction for the non Toyota Denso filters, so for piece of mind, get the Genuine Toyota filter if you are going that route.

In regards to the ZDDP for our engines: From what I have seen, the lack of ZDDP in modern oils really hasn't caused issues, with the exception of new/rebuilt engine break-in, where the higher ZDDP content is needed for the new parts to properly wear in.

jay4runner

I got this sucker all back together and seems to be running like a clock. I assume I should change the oil in fairly short order as there had been a fair bit of coolant mixing in with it earlier. Even though I did clean out the oil pan there still must be a little of the undesirable mixture in there. Even though I have just put in new coolant, may flush that sooner rather than later as well. Idle didn't quite come down to what I am used to with a warm engine - was at about 1100 or 1200. I suppose I could/should check the timing - will have to purchase a timing light I guess. Nevertheless the truck is running very smoothly. No leaking to be seen anywhere. Only item of some concern is with the new thermostat bolt I put in (after fighting so hard to get the previous one out). The new bolt in that slot didn't seem like it was quite going to make it to the click on the torque wrench at the designated 13 ft lbs. Was worried it was about to strip out or something so didn't totally get it to the 13. Perhaps the inner threads had been weakened by the previous bolt problem. Will have to keep an eye on that one. Thank you so much to everyone on this thread that has helped me along the way. Your encouragement, patience and great advice is so appreciated. I could not have done this (and would not have even tried) without you.

2ToyGuy

If it were me, and again, you aint, I would definitely change the oil and filter again after putting a few miles, or at least some time idling, on the engine. You want to be SURE you've gotten allllll the coolant out of the oil system. I still use the Castrol Syntec synthetic in both my 22R engines, and I will when I change out the oil in the 99. The dealer I bought it from had the oil and filter changed JUST before he shipped the truck to me. It looked new on the dipstick. No, that doesn't mean I spilled some on me... Sorry, stupid sense of humor. I use the 10W30 for the 22R engines, and I'll use 5W30 for the 5VZ-FE. Once again, I don't have any leaks that are unaccounted for.

Conversely, I would keep an eye on the coolant, to see if there's any evidence of oil remaining in the cooling system. If there is, definitely flush-n-fill is in order again.

That high a idle RPM can cause an interesting effect. When you step on the brake, it can drop the idle way low, then allow it to come back up, then drop way low, etc. The ECU cuts the injectors above a certain RPM when you step on the brakes. Toyota figured you don't need the engine RPM above about 1100 when you're braking to a stop. Saves fuel, reduces emissions, etc. You might want to, using an EXTERNAL tachometer, set the RPM to about 850. Don't trust the built in tach. Notoriously inaccurate.
Then, once you've set the idle down where it belongs, check the timing, and adjust as needed. Once you get the timing set, re-check the idle speed again, just to be safe.

IF the idle speed won't set low enough, or it won't stay consistently set, try changing out the o-ring on the idle speed adjust screw. They get old, brittle, and leak air. The right size o-rings are readily available, frequently as part of a o-ring collection you can buy. Put a thin layer of Vaseline or silicone dielectric grease on the new one. It makes them last longer, and seal better.

Have fun!
Pat☺

jay4runner

Great, thanks. I ran the truck a while in the driveway - 5 to 10 mins - let it heat up. A little later I took it for just a 3 min drive around the block. I'm ready to change the oil at any time - could do now if it makes sense (after I heat it up again). I prepared myself by getting a few jugs of the lesser expensive oil/filter for this purpose. Is the idle adjustment just done by way of that idle adjust screw that you mention? Wish the auto place had a loaner timing light - not something I am likely to use very often but I do think I can pick one up on amazon for about $40 - I hope the cheaper ones are accurate. I will look for an external tach as well - didn't know such a thing existed. Am definitely planning to flush out that coolant as well. Thanks for the tips!

2ToyGuy

Most auto parts stores, and Harbor Freight type stores, have both tachometers and timing lights in stock, usually for pretty reasonable prices. I just did a quick search, and saw prices for a tach. I saw $20.00 to $350.00.
Timing lights should be about the same. "Accuracy" of a timing light is a moot point. They have 3 wires, generally. One to battery positive, one to battery negative or some other ground, to power the lamp, and the inductive pickup cable. They use the inductive pickup clamped to the #1 plug wire to trigger the light to flash, when the pulse travels the plug wire, and the "trigger" is pulled on the light. So really, there's no "accuracy" to it. It either flashes, or it don't. There are a number out now that have batteries built into the light, so they eliminate the wires clamped to the car's battery.
I bought a tach/dwell meter and timing light 35 or 40 years ago, when I had a Chevy Love that needed them both once a week or so. They both still work great. Harbor Freight is where, IIRC. I think they were both around $20.00, give or take.
You can also use a timing light to check all the spark plug wires from the distributor, and the cable from the coil to the distributor. Checks not only the wires, but also the distributor cap and rotor. Very handy for trouble shooting spark problems. Pulling a plug wire and holding it near a ground works, but you have to be very careful. Plug wires can bite. HARD. And they HURT when they do. Trust me on that. Using a timing light to see if there's a pulse traveling the wire is a lot safer.

Once the truck is warmed up to "operating temp", yes, the screw I described is the idle speed adjustment. When it's still "cold", the Aux Idle Air Valve, down below the throttle body, opens, allowing more air into the system to allow the ECU to idle up the engine. Once the coolant is up to full temp, the aux air valve closes, and the idle adjust screw is THE adjustment to use. The aux air valve is the large, about the size of an adult's hand, rectangular item bolted to the bottom center of the TPS, and has a large tube running up into the TPS from below. If you look at the back of it, there are also two relatively small water hoses going into it. That's what it uses to sense the coolant temperature.

Remember, there's a cover screw capping the actual idle adjust screw. You take off the large cover screw off to be able to adjust the idle screw. Also, if you're going to check/replace the o-ring on the idle adjust screw, to screw it all the way down until it stops, not tight, just until it stops, counting the number of turns, and partial turns, it takes. That way, when you put it back in, you can screw it all the way down, then back it out until it's where you started. It gives you a starting point to work from.

I would change your oil after 20-50 miles of operation if it were me. That should be plenty to get all the coolant out of the system. The coolant you can examine directly by simply looking into the radiator cap. When it's cold, naturally! You'll easily be able to see any oil contamination, and plan on doing a flush-n-fill, at your convenience.

Have fun!
Pat☺

jay4runner

Thanks for the info again. I did just give it an oil change - so that oil was only in there for the time it took me to warm up that truck a couple times over last few days as well as a quick drive around the block. The oil did look a little off - I'm hoping it is just from remnant of coolant that was in the engine. That is interesting about the idle screw - I assume the one that is showing is the adjustment screw. I screwed it clockwise 1/2 a revolution and it clearly slowed down the idle a bit. I gave it another 1/4 turn and that made it about right. But you say the actual idle screw is underneath that screw? I think there is a touch of oil in the coolant because when I I open the rad cap it looks a little grey on top. But then again, when I use my coolant tester to suck a little bit off the top into the tester it looks nice and red/pink in the clear tester.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i wonder about such timing lights. i have an old crafstman model. it has the "battery" alligator clips, along with the induction lead. however, it works just fine to indicate spark/timing without hooking up the battery clips. from what i've read, the clips are actually used to allow for remote starting the vehicle while working on the engine, and the trigger is used to engage the starter; the leads must be attached to the vehicle starter solenoid (at least one of the two).

scope103

Ah, ya gotta love the "old school" advice found here (appropriate; our vehicles are, sad to say, definitely old school).

"Modern" timing lights (those made within the past 30 years; even the cheapest HF one now: https://www.harborfreight.com/timing...nce-40963.html ) have an "advance" knob or a dial-back display https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/...ck-light-work/ . You can still use them like the "flashes or it don't" light (just like the ones 2ToyGuy and I have), but instead you can set the advance you want and just check the TDC mark. Handy for when you're a "tuner" and trying to check the timing when it's advanced beyond the built-in scale, or if the scale is damaged. The "advance" knob has a calibration associated with it (the electronics are not trivial), and back-in-the-day people argued about which lights had the most accurate advance calibration.

If you're using an advance style light, it's a good idea to occasionally set the advance knob to zero and point it at a harmonic balancer with the full scale just to see if it gives you the same answer.

2ToyGuy

Well, I'll be darned. I was wrong again. Surprize.

I apologize. Yes, my timing light is old school. I guess you'd call 40+ years kinda old school-ish, no? It either flashes or it doesn't. It hasn't not flashed yet, which, to my way of thinking, is a pretty good record for a Harbor Freight item. When I bought it, it was a pretty good quality light. When I bought it. Oh well...

Have fun, whatever you wind up using
Pat☺

jay4runner

I ordered one straight from china - its the same one you see on amazon under a few different names. $29 CAD with free shipping - I can wait 2 weeks for it (the truck is running quite good).

scope103

No, not wrong. Just '90s appropriate.