Been busy with fishing trips and work and haven't researched this one much. Both rotors as they are both more warped than a certain dead celebrity.

Any tricks to getting the studs out of the rotor (or are they bolts)?

 

Getting the rotors off would be easy if you didn't have to take the hubs off to get to them. And in getting the hubs off you have to deal with the infamous cone washers. If you've never taken them out they can be quite sticky. I just used a lot of heat and PB and fitted a socket over the loosened nut and tapped it with a hammer about 100 times and they came off. Be careful you don't ruin a stud when you do it. There's lot's of info on them on the forum if you search.

As for time to get the rotors off, if you've never done it before better leave yourself 3-4 hours for the job. After you've been in there you can get them both off in under an hour counting removing the tires.

 

Read the FSM. Nothing to it. Cone washers come off easily with a brass drift, a 3 lb sledge and a mini flat head screwdriver.

I replaced the rotors on my 87 a while back when doing a brake job. Took maybe an hour a side and that was goofing off.

 

The cone washers are no problem. Just remember that any cones that don't have a nut threaded on will go flying off when they eventually start to loosen up. Their shape sends them flying out of the hub.

 

I've taken off the hubs half a dozen times, never found the cone washers to be an issue in the least. If that's the toughest part, it should be a breeze. Thanks.

 

When I did mine I didn't have a brass drift but I had a sst scrap about the same size. I just rouunded out the tip so it would stay on and a couple tapse with a hammer and they were out. Wasn't too hard lol. You should seen my rotor, the pad had totally worn and was grinding on the metal back of the pad.

 

Did the pads last fall, but had just paid tuition, so no rotors or calipers for me. They both need replacing.

I thought I'd try rebuilding the callipers, but I have a feeling I'm going to get them apart and find out they're all rusted inside.

 

idk about my toyota rotors..never taken them off..but i can get the rotors off my 1/2ton dodge 4x4 in about the same amount of time it took for me to read your post and me post this reply..

 

Calipers are pretty cheap, like 80-90$ a side with your core...

Hey Matt, you got a 54mm socket?

 

Sorry Jay, I don't have one. Doing your wheel bearings?

 

Can also use a 2 1/8 in socket as well. I'm in the middle of doing 2 (new to me form Nix99) front drive axles, new inner&outer bearings and my locking hub conversion.......

 

No you need to remove the front hubs. Not just the locking hubs, but the wheel bearing hubs.

Remove the 54mm nuts and locking plates, remove the outer wheel bearing, then take the whole wheel bearing hub assembly off.

Then remove the 6 bolts from behind that attach the rotor, put the rotor in a vise, and beat the hub off of the rotor. Use a fat chisel in the gap between the heads of the wheel studs and the rotor.

Clean off the hub/rotor mating surface, apply some antiseize lubricant, and reassemble.

If the rotor is stuck, and it surely is, it will take a bit more than an hour a side. Especially if you've never done this before.

You'll need a 54mm socket. NSOR will have it for under $20. It's handy to have a spare set of spindle nuts and locking plates, because the previous butcher may have messed them up.

I have these tools, but will be out of town for a couple weeks. When we do pads and rotors along with a bearing repack, it's usually 4.0hrs.

 

North Shore Off Road in Vancouver has them for $17 and they're nearby, but thanks.

 

I got my 21/8" socket from princess auto. But thats awsume that NSOR is so close to you!

Let me know if you need a hand. I have done the wheelbearings on my truck twice and on my girlfriends 4runner recently. So easy

But just so you know, here are the parts you will need do swap rotors:

Rotors
inside wheel bearing seal (about $25 EACH)
New wheel bearings and races

plus grease and any hub gaskets if they tear.

You will also need a good metal bearing and race installer. I bought a cheepie plastic set from princess, doesnt work that well!!!!

Might aswell rebuild your hubs while you're at it, takes all but 5 mins

 

I agree with others on here, if you are going in that far, it is the perfect time to do the bearings, especially if they haven't been touched in a while. Tear it apart once and put theme back together right.

 

So Jay, does that mean anyone in the neighbourhood can take advantage of your expertise? I've been looking to do brakes and wheel bearings for sometime but just haven't had the time to review the FSM about what is involved from start to finish

 

Haha, im always willing to help a fellow yotatecher out

Front brakes are easy stuff, same with wheelbearings. Once you have done them once, you can knock em out super fast.

Wheelbearings are just a messy job, I should buy stock in those blue shop towels!!!