spdjnky

Tried to do a driveway alignment on my truck to find out that the cam bolt was frozen in the rear. After PB Blast, heat, busted knuckles and a lot of cussing; I need to find out what I need to replace to have the truck aligned? do I just need to order lower control arm bushings or should I replace the upper and lower? someone guide me in the right direction!!

MudHippy

The upper arm bushings have no impact on alignabilty. And due to the serious amount of effort involved in their replacement, I would say leave 'em be. Unless they're TOTALLY shot.

The lower arm bushings are a piece of cake to change out, in comparison. If you think they need replaced, by all means do so. But it sounds like a cam bolt(s) is what's giving you the massive headache. And that bolt(s) WILL have to come out to get the old bushing(s) out.

I can't think of much else that you haven't already tried. You did use a breaker bar or and impact right? If not, start there. If that fails, you may have to pound it out with a BFH after removing the nut. That'll probably wreck the threads, but so will cutting it out I imagine. Which would be about the only other option left if it's stuck in there really bad. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do though. Junkyards oughta be chock full of replacement bolts, so don't get too discouraged if that's what it comes to.

Good luck!

spdjnky

Yeah I have tried a breaker bar and impact too. I have sprayed it for the last couple of days in PB blast and will be trying to remove it this weekend again. I'll go ahead and get a new cam bolt b/c however I get this out I know I will need a new one. No need to replace more than I have too so unless the bushings are trashed or I tear them up getting the bolt out, I will leave them alone.

thanks MudHippy!

desertcamper67

If your bushings are good now they should be after you get the cam bolt out. Unless you are using a torch.
Jack up your truck by the frame when trying to work that cam bolt out. The tire can still be on the ground but take most of the weight off.

Lumpy

If you are taking the bolts out of the lower control arm you better have it off the ground. If just trying to break them loose, just take the weight off. I was able to get all the nuts loose on mine but I had one bolt that was frozen. I used a BFH and beat on the nut so that the threads would be alright. Then cleaned up the nut...it was a lot of work and a real PITA to get it out but in the end I was able to get it cleaned up and reused it.

spdjnky

I can get the nut loose on the rear of the cam bolt but I cannot get the cam bolt to turn for the life of me, wheel on or off the ground. I am going to try to get the bolt out using a BFH this time. With that being said...where can i get a new bolt?? I'm sure to mess the threads or something up knowing my luck no matter how careful I am.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ite-up-163432/

Link to the driveway alignment. First video where he adjust the caster....mine won't budge on passenger side.

Lumpy

Keep the nut on it and you should be alright...I went to Advanced auto and they had no help for me on a new bolt that is why I beat my out. But you may have luck. Might Have to call the dealer...

MudHippy

I'd go to the junkyard first. That's because I happen to know for sure that I could talk the guy at the local yard into selling me just the bolt for probably $5. I also give the guy LOTS of business, so sometimes he lets me take stuff that small for free.

If a junkyard's not sounding like a great idea, you could purchase a new one fairly easily. I went ahead and got the part # for you off ToyoDIY.com.
The camber adjustment bolt is 48190-35020(it superseded 48190-35010). The nut for that bolt is 90179-16005.
The camber adjustment washer for the nut side of the bolt is 48198-35010.

Take that number(s) to a dealership, or you can order OEM parts online from a number of sources. I'd recommend 1stToyotaParts.com, as they have the best prices that I've been able to find on the web.

desertcamper67

You might have the local parts store check Specialty Products for those. They have lots of problem solver type of alignment parts and tools.

ovrrdrive

I had one freeze on my truck too when I did my lift and after beating, heating, and PB Blasting it for about 6 hours I finally got a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel and started cutting on it. Turns out the 4" wheel didn't have quite enough reach so I got some 4.5" wheels and went right through it. Then it was just a matter of removing the lower ball joint so I could get the arm off and go have another bushing pressed into it. It was a PITA but there wasn't any other way. It was stuck tight...

I took a pic of the part numbers when I had them. I'll dig it up for you.



A new cam bolt was about $10 and the bushing was $50...

desertcamper67

Don't take of the ball joint unless you need to replace the bushing. Even then I would try to do it on the truck if possible. Rattle it with an air hammer. No press needed.

ovrrdrive

If he has to cut the bolt like I did he'll need to either have someone press in a new bushing or do it himself. Either way it is so much easier to either unbolt the LBJ or just snap it out. Don't be afraid to take apart the front end on these trucks. It's just about the easiest front end to work on I've ever seen.

If you don't have to cut the bolt of course you won't need to remove the LCA...

desertcamper67

If the bolt will turn after you cut the head or nut off you should be able to get it out without harming the bushing.
Soak it all in penetrant after you get the bolt apart. Work that penetrant in there and use something to drive whats left of the cam bolt out the other side.

Ovrrdrive, did you have to cut the bushing or was there room for a cutting disc or sawzall blade in between? Did you have to cut both ends off the cam bolt?

I agree they are easy to take apart but for me, if I replace one bushing I'll replace them all. Piece of mind.

ovrrdrive

There was room for a cutting disc but I don't know if a sawzall would have worked or not. Mine was completely fused in the bushing so I had to cut both sides of the bolt off to get it to drop out. I had already ruined the bushing with heat so I had to replace it anyway. If I had cut the bolt before I ruined the bushing I suppose I might have been able to press the bolt out of it, but still probably would have had to take the LCA off.

I agree with replacing all of the bushings at once if you're able, but I was at the tail end of a $4k lift job and was broke as hell. At $50 each from the stealer I just replaced the one I needed to get back on the road.

After knowing the truck better now I could get those LCA's off in no time at all if I wanted to do the rest.

Jay351

Best way I found to deal with that is just to burn the bushing out, push out the metal sleeve and replace..

ovrrdrive

I did burn it out but the sleeve wouldn't come through the hole. All that was left was to cut the bolt.

Jay351

Blonde moment, sorry I havent done bushings on my truck...yet