both should be loose...hence the fact that no air is escaping and is being compressed

Quick engine lesson...tho im sure ya already know...

#1 (down)-Intake stroke- I1 open, E1 closed
#2-(up)Compression stroke E1 and I1 valves closed
#3-(down)Power stroke E1 and I1 valves closed
#4-(up) exhaust stoke- E1 open, I1 closed.

Then when the piston reaches the top, the whole thing repeats itself.

http://www.antonine-education.co.uk/...on_engines.htm

check the link if my info is too confusing

 

I thought both should be loose but somebody was telling me that it would only be one. So I set it the way you said with both of them loose and it fired right up I am going to get a timing light tommrow and see if I can't smooth it out a bit by moving the distributor or is there some other way it idles fine just a little high and lumpy not much more than before. And thanks for the lesson..

 

just use a timing light. I believe the setting is 5` BTDC with the check connector short circuited at idle (refer to the diagram under the hood for that one)

 

So at idle with that jumped and using a timing light I'll just have to rotate the distributor to get it at the 5` mark on the crank correct? Will that bring my idle down or is that just another problem?

 

5` BTDC with the connector short circuited at idle, will bring your truck within time. If your truck still runs rough, then you have another problem.

 

Well truck was running great so I decided to take it to the parts store to get a timing light went inside got what I needed went outside jumped in turned the key and it sounded like the starter was going so I had a guy help me try to push start it no go so I had a buddy help me tow it home. I bought a new starter while I was there because my truck had the OEM one and it worked off and on so I got home put the new one in and it cranks and cranks and dosen't start it also has weak spark. The engine is turning over but it won't start...And looking at this it could be numerous things.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3troubles.pdf

 

Anybody have any ideas bought a new cap and rotor spark is better but still no start...

 

recheck your timing. maybe your tensionser is not engaging and causing it to jump time?? just recheck that timing

 

I'm gonna re-check it this weekend just scratching my head on it running and then it stoped running but last time I set it I stuck a long screw driver down in there and presed against the tensioner and it seemed to be working like I said before the timing chain looks like it was repalced recently.

 

Well still no luck with my truck I made sure the timing was set correctly again and no go although it back fired through the intake but never started...I'm about ready to take it somewhere to have it looked at I am sick of messing with it.

 

One question with the key in the on (just before start) position should I be able to hear the fuel pump? Because if so I can't hear mine.

 

no. you should not be able to hear the fuel pump until you start turning the vehicle over, and it starts.

 

Thats what I was thinking i am gonna try to jump the pump to see if it comes on..

 

Well jumperd the pump it came on. I also jumped the diagnostic port the see if I was getting any CEL and it just flashes constanlty no short or long flashes just flashes. Is there and sure fire way to check the ignition module?

 

Did a compression check today and all four cylinders showed 0psi. So my next question if the timing is off can this cause the lack of compression? I guess I am just going get the timing chain cover off one way or another to really check everything correctly I was having no luck using the starter method and didn't want to strip out the bolt if at all possible.

 

0 PSI means the valves aren't working...IE your chain isn't wooked up somehow. talk about a huge mess!

 

I talked to a buddy who had a truck that kept jumping time and it ended up being the groove in the end of the crank that the keeper goes it was messed up causing the gear to move a bit so whenever he would set the timing it would be good for a bit then it would jump time. The way he fixed not really the correct way was he tack welded the gear in place and never had a problem again he said he did just two little spots so if it ever had to come off it would be easy. I guess he didn't want to replace the crank. Funny thing was he was amazed that the groove in the crank was messed up thought they were stronger than that.

 

cant say I've ever experienced that problem before. just check it all, make sure your crank isn't damaged i suppose

 

Well after many attempts doing the starter trick to remove the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, only thing that accomplished was to strip the bolt head. It looks like somebody before me used a chisel or something to try to get it off it has marks on it so I tried that and no luck. I am going to try to get a nut welded to the head of the bolt and give it another try. Never ending ....