So this AM I decided to mess around with my truck and I was putting the engine to TDC and I thought it was really hard so as I pulled the ratchet I realized I left the truck in gear and no the truck just cranks and don't start I smell gas so could I have jumped some teeth ont he timing chain. When I line up the mark on the crank pulley with the zero on the little indicator the rotor is way off and the exhaust valve on #1 I believe is loose and intake is tight. So my question is can I put the crank at TDC or zero, set the rotor to point to #1 cylinder, and pull the cam gear off and rotate the cam to open both #1 valves then slip the chain on the cam gear to get all to line up? Engine is a 22re by the way. I guess I should have just left it alone... :pat:

 

I think you'll have to do all you said and get that tchain cover off to reposition the chain on the crank and cam pulleys.
Pete

 

Is it possible to do that with out a machine? Wouldnt that take a butt load of torque? And if you did some how jump the chain, wouldnt that break it?

 

I don't see how leaving it in gear and turning the crank pulley over would cause the timing chain to jump. Any torque you applied would've been between the crank and the tranny. This does not add up.

 

It's the only thing I can think of that might have caused it to jump. When I line up the knotch on the crank pully with the zero on the timing mark the rotor is not pointing to #1 and only the exhaust valve is closed I thought that when it was at TDC both valves would be closed so that would make there to be some play in the rocker arms. Truck was running this AM and now all it does is crank over. Does anybody know a easy way to set the timing after I have the crank where it needs to be (knotch on crank set to zero on timing mark).

 

try reading through this, it may help:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

lee

 

Only thing about going by what the FSM says is that in order to line up the chain on the crank I'd have to take off the timing chain cover and I want to avoid that.

 

Well I got the truck running. It runs rough so I am gonna leave it alone until I can get a timing light. I tried to smooth it out my rotating the distibutor no go. I think it is off maybe one tooth so I'll mess with it later..

 

did you jup the diagnostic connector before you set the timing ?

 

No do I need to do that? If so how do I do that?

 

read the emission label on the hood it will show you what to short out to put the engine into base timing

 

If I don't jump it will it keep messing up the timing? I had it running good and I decided to adjust it one tooth and now nothing lines up at all and it won't start just cranks...I guess I should have went by the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it". So does anybody again have some sure fire ways to set the timing without taking the front of the engine apart. The timing chain is a new one because who ever had the cam sprocket off last put it on backwards well they had the index mark on the back side...

 

hey i just put a new motor inand i didnt do what ironroad9c1 did. could that be part of my problem. do you have to do that for it to run right?
can anyone explain what i need to do.

93 4x4 extended cab
new 22re with trouble codes
see thread "22re is toast"

 

Well there is nothing under my hood that says anything about codes or jumping anything..All I have is the vacum diagram and the one that says what engine size and some other crap..And even if I did have it I still need to get everyting lined up for it to even start...Lets just say I'm getting really fed up with the truck although I brought this upon myself...But what ya gonna do..

 

Eh,

rip the damn timing cover off and see what is going on. This is killing me, I want to see a resolution to this more than you do after following this thread for a week now I have heard of it before and I still think you jumped a tooth.

Good luck man,
Pete

 

Alright I'll tear the timing chain cover off the chain seems to be new and it only has one shiney link I'll have to go and get a drain pan, anti-freeze and some gaskets and tackle it first thing Saturday morning....One thing that is throwing me off is the whole shiney link one of the steps says to line up the shiny link with the timing mark on the crank and the very next step says to line it up with the mark on the cam sprocket now which one is it? Do I put it on the crank and then rotate the motor until it lines up with the mark on the cam or can I just put the keeper on the carnk to the 12oclock position and line up the link with timing mark on the cam gear?

 

The timing chain will have one bright link on one end and one or two on the other end, just depends on who makes the chain. First make sure your at top dead center on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. If this is done right the key on the crankshaft will be at 12 oclock and the timing dimple on the crank gear will be at 6 oclock. Center the one bright link on the chain with the tooth that has the timing dimple, then you do the same thing with the cam gear if it only has one bright link. The timing dimple on the cam gear will be at the 12 o clock position if done correctly. The only difference if your chain has two bright links instead of one is that you center the cam tooth with the timing dimple inbetween the two bright links.

93 toyota 4x4 ext. cab

 

Yea my chain only has the one shiney link so do I have the crank with the key at 12o clock that puts the bottom at TDC and put the shiney link on the tooth on the cam gear with the dimple? Why is this such a PITA I rebuilt a engine and didn't have this much trouble. And I started tearing it apart and I stopped at trying to get the crank pulley off that is also a PITA tryed the starter trick no go so I soaked it with some WD40 and will try either tommrow or Saturday.

 

only one shiny link that you can see. the other one is down on the crank when you can see the other one.

Really, it doesn't even matter where the shiny links are if you know what you are doing.

Do this.

Put the Crank, at TDC on the compression stroke(0) Then, put the matchmark on the cam straightup. There will be a mark on the rocker assembly.....match it up. Make sure the chain is tight, and put the bolt back in the cam gear. Then, rotate the engine making sure the cam gear mark is at the top, when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke (keep in mind a 2:1 ratio of crank to cam)

You dont need to take the timing cover off, unless you have to replace the timing guides. Perhaps a little finesse is required, but it can be done. BTW, its is helpful to have a long/skinnny screwdriver handy to push the hydraulic tensioner in while trying to get the cam gear/chain combo onto the cam properly.

Basically, it boils down to this: Once all done, you should be able to spin that crank until the mark reaches TDC (0) on the compression stroke, where the mark on the cam gear will match up with the triangle shaped mark on the rocker assembly. If that is all correct, then your rotating assembly is in time.

 

OK befoe I get flamed and told maybe I shouldn't mess with it anymore when it is on the compression stroke it's the exhaust valve rocker arm that will be loose or is it the intake valve rocker arm?