Any of you guys with a 3zve have this horrible tapping sound? I've read lots of threads about it and I guess its the valves. Mine sounds like a bike with a card stuck in the spokes. Many people on here say adjusting them wont get rid of the tapping. Any help from you guys who have experienced this will be appreciated.

 

Tapping valves on the 3vze is good because the valves usualy burn as they get too tight. I read that the injectors are noisy and I have the same noise after a rebuild with the valves adjusted.

 

Yeah, on my new rebuilt it does the same thing!

I thought I was the only one...

 

depending on the nature of the noise...
... louder when on the throttle, quieter when off throttle could be an exhaust manifold leak.
... just as loud when on the gas as when off, could be a valve adjustment... or could be a rod or wrist-pin....

 

Mine is noticeable too...only has about 160km's aka 100k miles with good maintenance. Get's a little annoying on the highway around 3,000 rpm if I start thinking about it .

 

Do a 3.4 swap and it gets rid of that sound.

 

The 3.4 is a no good like the 3.0... at 265000 miles with the valves never adjusted your 3.4 will have dead cylinders too. The noise can be cured by staying inside the truck while it is running.

 

How about you either post something informative to help the person or don't post anything at all. And suggesting swapping the engine is not informative, BTW.

 

I would say be careful. A tapping valve is noticeable BUT its not massively loud. Main engine bearing, now that SOUNDS like a jackhammer and means the engine is gone. I would suggest looking into it. Do you have correct oil pressure? Usually a main bearing goes due to age or lack of oil. Just something to think about.

 

My oil pressure when i let of the gas goes down, is this normal? When sitting at a idle the oil pressure isn't in the middle of the gage it reads low and then when I give gas it climbs up to the center of the gage. I also believe that I have a leak in my exhaust manifold because I have a fluttering noise coming from around there.

 

Oil pressure will vary depending on engine RPM as well as engine temperature and the weight of the oil. At idle you should have around 10PSI and when revving the engine, oil pressure should top out at around 70-75 PSI. You should have at least 30 PSI at 3000 rpms regardless.

 

yea, the oil will fluctuate. A properly functioning oil pump will produce EXCESS oil hence the bypass valve. So, as you get higher RPM your mechanical pump will have more pressure for the engine. So, yea. The needle will move..but like ABECEDARIAN notes..what is important is the PSI in the system. Even 5 psi low can cause "starving", meaning you slowly are killing things due to under oil. You can get a mechanical psi oil gauge and plug it into the console oil gauge and get an actual reading. However..if you really ARE hearing a FLUTTER away from the engine, in your exhaust..then you may be lucky and just an exhaust leak. The thin metal will start to flutter and as your go faster, more exhaust pressure will sound faster and faster until the flutter is almost a constant noise. The simplest way to think is, paper in air. Slow its, flap, flap, flap. Faster, flap flap flap flap until its just FLAPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP. Is that a horrible analogy? It made sense in my head.

 

lol yes but I haven't heard that single loud flap yet HAHA. Maybe the humming of my tires when I get to that speed cover it up.

 

Whoa...is this true? Mine idles when warm at around 20-25psi and at 3000rpm it's at about 55-60psi. This is according to a mechanical oil pressure gauge that is sampling oil directly from where the sending unit is supposed to be.

 

Yes, thats true. It should be between 36-71 psi at 3000 rpm, so you're good there.

 

Ever consider the possibility of a baby woodpecker living in your engine compartment?

 

Nevermind

 

ROFL