T4R first gen - Rear wheel drags
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
T4R first gen - Rear wheel drags
Hi guys!
Another issue....
I have our Toyota 4Runner first gen on jack stands and I noticed the rear right wheel doesn't spin freely.
Do you have any suggestion?
Another issue....
I have our Toyota 4Runner first gen on jack stands and I noticed the rear right wheel doesn't spin freely.
Do you have any suggestion?
The following users liked this post:
SomedayJ (04-01-2019)
The following users liked this post:
SomedayJ (04-01-2019)
#4
Easy fix. Loosen the nut on top of the axle, where the ebrake cable splits into left <-> right. Does it work now?
Last edited by ev13wt; 04-01-2019 at 05:34 AM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
You're right guys, the parking brake's not releasing from that side. The cable looks in good shape, no signs of rust or dirt.
I adjusted the nut on the top of the axle where the cable splits, if I move the braket a few milimeters to the right the Rwheel moves freely and I don't here the drag noise, but it transfers the problem to the Lwheel.
The parking brake cable needs some adjustment, I'm reading the FSM but the procedure's not clear to me.
I adjusted the nut on the top of the axle where the cable splits, if I move the braket a few milimeters to the right the Rwheel moves freely and I don't here the drag noise, but it transfers the problem to the Lwheel.
The parking brake cable needs some adjustment, I'm reading the FSM but the procedure's not clear to me.
#6
Remove pivot, clean everything and grease it. Tighten until it is no wiggly, but still can move. Drive for a bit, should fix it completely.
Adjust the e-brakes at the wheel. There is a little hole in the drum where you can adjust the shoes (click, click) closer. To move them farther away, you must press something inside the hole to push back on the click ratchet, (no click click in reverse)
Using the e-brake does this click tightening automatically, there *should* be no reason to adjust unless you put new shoes on it.
The e-brake is adjusted by those "standoffs". Should be enough wiggle room to get you 1 cm of free play.
OR
You might be able to adjust the cable length at / behind the actual brake handle in the truck, just relax it that 5-10mm.
OR in front of the gas tank - a sort of nut in the single cable
Adjust the e-brakes at the wheel. There is a little hole in the drum where you can adjust the shoes (click, click) closer. To move them farther away, you must press something inside the hole to push back on the click ratchet, (no click click in reverse)
Using the e-brake does this click tightening automatically, there *should* be no reason to adjust unless you put new shoes on it.
The e-brake is adjusted by those "standoffs". Should be enough wiggle room to get you 1 cm of free play.
OR
You might be able to adjust the cable length at / behind the actual brake handle in the truck, just relax it that 5-10mm.
OR in front of the gas tank - a sort of nut in the single cable
Last edited by ev13wt; 04-01-2019 at 06:30 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by ev13wt:
RAD4Runner (04-01-2019),
SomedayJ (04-01-2019)
#7
Registered User
While we are on the subject of rear drums, I always find it beneficial to pull the drums and dump the dust out or blow with compressed air. Quite a lot builds up in the drums and makes them less efficient.
It goes without saying but, just don't breathe that stuff!
It goes without saying but, just don't breathe that stuff!
The following users liked this post:
SomedayJ (04-01-2019)
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#8
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iTrader: (1)
it isn't always the pivot at the center of the axle that is a problem. sometimes it is the bellcrank that the cable attaches to that is semi-frozen. i use a small hammer to gently tap the parts to find out which item is "sticking" or "stuck", then fix that issue. i have had success getting the bellcranks to function correctly after they had been seized by corrosion.
The following users liked this post:
SomedayJ (04-01-2019)
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Solved!
Last edited by SomedayJ; 04-08-2019 at 08:24 AM.
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