I googled "swaybar disconnects toyota" and got a few hits with pictures of different setups. From what I've read on some sites and seen on others they all appear to use 3/8" threaded studs for the spherical ball joints on the sway bar end and the control arm as well. My question is, with my sway bar having a hole about 1/2" , is there some type of spacer or collar that you put in there with the 3/8" stud, or do you just bolt these rod ends in and roll on? My rig is a 91 3.0 4Runner w/ new cv axles/Aisins,plus 2 broken swaybar endlinks LOL !www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/disconnects/

 

I ran a copy of Robinhood150's on my front for a while...worked great and easy to use

http://robinhood4x4.com/qd.htm

Or get with Wabfab...Brian will hook you up

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78558

 

Ok, I give up. How does one disconnect those ?




Fred

 

I saw something similar to this on another site-- you basically pull the pin and it allows the sway bar to move down on the rod as your suspension moves on the other side--pretty cool.

 

Which ones??

The Robinhood ones-you loosen the locknut that holds the pin tight, and pull the pin. The locknut stays on.

Mine flexed pretty good for IFS..

 

I see, and I guess if I'm building on a budget those look like the best route. Let me ask you this- I know they reduce body roll when they are engaged, but I guess they are not "crucial" part? when I show my friends what I would like to do, they look at me like I'm making a death trap for not going back with OEM end links. I shouldn't have anything to fear should I? It is also a vehicle my little boys ride in quite often. Thanks

 

The stock links are thinner than the bolt for the discos. Make sure you get good metal.

 

just take the sway bar off... better flex offroad, and not that much body roll on road.

 

I liked having 1 of them on...for a while I ran with just the rear one.

 

My back end is so loose now that I couldn't imagine having thos disco'd! I'm planning a Downey HD coil swap soon, already have new shocks (Cheapies),, I hope the Downeys stiffen it up a bit--I kinda like the stiffer ride of my wife's '97

 

my sway bar bolt broke when we tried to take it off, so we zip tied it and I don't notice very much difference unless it's getting off of the highway on an onramp

 

Quick disconnects or "discos" function just like a normal end link, except they allow you to quickly remove them for off-roading. Rear end quick disconnects are pointless on most vehicles, although I have made and do make custom beefier rear sway bar end links.

On the front quick disconnects you simply remove the "lower" nut/washer/bushing and then the pin and then quickly remove the whole end link assembly, leaving only bolt w/ the hole in it for the pin.

For clarity, these are upside down in the picture as to how they would install on a 2nd gen 4Runner, 90-95.


Sway Bar End Links

If you want a "cheap" end link that will only break again, then just replace the OEM ones, but you will get what you pay for. Using sub par materials for end links is dangerous IMO and only more costly in the long run. I use nothing but yellow zinc coated Grade 10.9 hardware (metric equivalent of Grade 8) and I've never had one of my end links fail to my knowledge.

Zip tieing on a sway bar is not a good idea except to limp home for repair.

 

No, that'll only allow movement in one direction, no further the other way.
I simply don't get that type of "disco".
It really needs to be completely disconnected, such that the axle is free in both droop and stuff.




Fred