Swaping an auto for manual
02-28-2007, 09:07 PM
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Swaping an auto for manual
I have an 89 4runner (22re) with an auto that sucks. I thought I would drive it for awhile, but I have to change it. I have a new clutch, flywheel. My questions are, 1. Is it a direct bolt in? 2. do I need a different front drive shaft? 3. What kind of down time will I have? I will have some help from someone that is familiar with with swapping motors and trannys. Anything I should lookout for?
03-01-2007, 11:28 AM
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I've done this swap, and it's not that tough.
Parts needed:
Tranny(duh) + T-case
flywheel
Clutch
clutch pedal assy
Master cyl
Slave Cyl
Hard line and soft line
misc little extra hardware(EVERY bolt you can scrounge)
interior trim pieces
you: MAY need a new longer driveshaft. The manual is about 1" shorten than the auto. My stock one worked, but I swapped it for a longer one just in case.
The interior pieces come out without much problem couple of screws, and pop off a couple of cotter pins to get the shift levers out of the way.
I found the hardest part of the swap was pulling the old automatic tranny. there are a lot of electrical connectors and oil lines running around it. Once you get those out of the way...it's just heavy.
Once the old tranny is removed, you can instal the clutch. The stock bolts holding the flex plate are the same legth as needed to hold the flywheel. You can throw away the extra spacers. The crank has a recess for the pilot bearing so that's easy enough.
The new tranny slides in pretty easy. Lining up the input shaft take some wiggling though. Luckily the manual is probably 100lb lighter than the old auto. I found there was an issue with 2 of the big tranny bolts, the auto bell housing is thicker in some spots so 2 of my bolts were too long. So if you can get all the bolts off the donor truck it's very helpfull.
Once tranny is bolted up the slave cyl can be hooked up: easy.
The clutch pedal is a bit of a PITA. the auto and manual bracket are almost the same, but the manual bracket has studs for the master cyl. The bracket needs to be really wiggled in andout of place. Before you pull the old one out: mark all the holes that need to be drilled from the inside. Then pull it out, and drill all your holes. I had to remove some stuff on the fender(cruise, etc) to have enough space to get a drill with a hole saw in there. Once you get your holes cut, wiggle the bracket back in.
Once the bracket is in, you can instal the Master Cyl, and hook the hard line to it. The hardline can then hook to the soft line. Bleed the clutch, instal your trim, then you're ALMOST done.
Only one of the auto connectors needs to be used. It's a big round one with three wires: black, blue and...white? I have this gerry rigged right now. If you hook the black straight to the white your ECU thinks you're in neutral so you can start the truck, but can't use cruise. The blue wire is for your reverse lights.
Sadly none of the connectors used on the auto tranny are the same as on the manual, so it requires some splicing.
Parts needed:
Tranny(duh) + T-case
flywheel
Clutch
clutch pedal assy
Master cyl
Slave Cyl
Hard line and soft line
misc little extra hardware(EVERY bolt you can scrounge)
interior trim pieces
you: MAY need a new longer driveshaft. The manual is about 1" shorten than the auto. My stock one worked, but I swapped it for a longer one just in case.
The interior pieces come out without much problem couple of screws, and pop off a couple of cotter pins to get the shift levers out of the way.
I found the hardest part of the swap was pulling the old automatic tranny. there are a lot of electrical connectors and oil lines running around it. Once you get those out of the way...it's just heavy.
Once the old tranny is removed, you can instal the clutch. The stock bolts holding the flex plate are the same legth as needed to hold the flywheel. You can throw away the extra spacers. The crank has a recess for the pilot bearing so that's easy enough.
The new tranny slides in pretty easy. Lining up the input shaft take some wiggling though. Luckily the manual is probably 100lb lighter than the old auto. I found there was an issue with 2 of the big tranny bolts, the auto bell housing is thicker in some spots so 2 of my bolts were too long. So if you can get all the bolts off the donor truck it's very helpfull.
Once tranny is bolted up the slave cyl can be hooked up: easy.
The clutch pedal is a bit of a PITA. the auto and manual bracket are almost the same, but the manual bracket has studs for the master cyl. The bracket needs to be really wiggled in andout of place. Before you pull the old one out: mark all the holes that need to be drilled from the inside. Then pull it out, and drill all your holes. I had to remove some stuff on the fender(cruise, etc) to have enough space to get a drill with a hole saw in there. Once you get your holes cut, wiggle the bracket back in.
Once the bracket is in, you can instal the Master Cyl, and hook the hard line to it. The hardline can then hook to the soft line. Bleed the clutch, instal your trim, then you're ALMOST done.
Only one of the auto connectors needs to be used. It's a big round one with three wires: black, blue and...white? I have this gerry rigged right now. If you hook the black straight to the white your ECU thinks you're in neutral so you can start the truck, but can't use cruise. The blue wire is for your reverse lights.
Sadly none of the connectors used on the auto tranny are the same as on the manual, so it requires some splicing.
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