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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

The surge is back...back again!

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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:02 PM
  #61  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by highway
I don't think the screwdriver would do the trick....I still say blow the line out with air pressure...mine did the exact same thing , high idle with the screw turned all the way in, surged when warmed up and at times it would idle normal the at the next red light the surge would be back .

highway
I'll definitely give it a try. Just don't really have an air compressor where I'm living at...and did you blow it out with coolant in the system?

The idle isn't changing...its just not coming up in the morning like it should. It won't start when cold unless my foot is on the gas.

My theory is the AAV valve is working backwards somehow. Somehow my idle gets higher as it warms up...lol.

Definitely thanks for the help!
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #62  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
so no matter what you do (except for adjusting the AAV) you can't get the idle speed down to normal spec... so
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.

does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #63  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
and idle rising as the engine warms is a sign of a vacuum leak too.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:26 PM
  #64  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
have you tried blocking the tube that goes down to the PAIR valve? (through that toilet-bowl float looking thing)
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:05 PM
  #65  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by abecedarian
so no matter what you do (except for adjusting the AAV) you can't get the idle speed down to normal spec... so
either the throttle body itself is not adjusted properly
the PCV valve is stuck OPEN
or there is a vacuum leak somewhere allowing air around the throttle body.

does the truck have a/c? if so, have you checked the lines to the idle up valve, or tried adjusting the valve in to lower the idle?
No, I got the truck to spec. Just wouldn't idle up when it was cold.

And no a/c either. Truck doesn't even have power steering. lol.

have you tried blocking the tube that goes down to the PAIR valve? (through that toilet-bowl float looking thing)
PAIR valve? Never heard of it...where is it? What does it look like? Thanks!
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:15 PM
  #66  
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From: Salem, OR
Is this the valve??? The big hose...block that???
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #67  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
yer gittin smrt
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:00 PM
  #68  
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From: Salem, OR
Thanks I should probably block it when I get my new AAV tomorrow We'll see if that was the culprit
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:22 PM
  #69  
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From: WA ,monroe
holy smokes.. would it of hurt to clean up your timing cover, head and intake.

hope you get it figured out. seems there has been a lot of people with idle problems this month
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #70  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by DudeBud
holy smokes.. would it of hurt to clean up your timing cover, head and intake.

hope you get it figured out. seems there has been a lot of people with idle problems this month
lol...I know! I didn't realize how small the block would be compared to everything else! lol
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #71  
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From: Salem, OR
I do admit that the AAV wasn't all of my problems...but...it sure runs a hell of a lot better!

Didn't adjust the AAV at all. Slapped it on...and then adjusted the idle screw. Purrs at 750 rpm. Amazingly it idled at 1500-1600 rpm in the morning! like its supposed to. But, I STILL have to put my foot on the gas to start it.

So, I'm thinking my intake could be really dirty. Or, the cold start injector is somehow screwy...although it barely starts just idles for a little bit and dies.

So whattaya think?
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #72  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
starts, idles then dies...
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....

seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #73  
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Could be. I had a simaliar(sp?) starting issue with my '91 3.0 truck. Had to give it a lot of peddle to start on cold mornings, and if I quick tapped it after I got it started, it would stumble and die. I replaced my cold start injector. That fixed my problem. But like I said, that was on my 1st '91 3.0, tho.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #74  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
a4r-
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #75  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by abecedarian
starts, idles then dies...
hmmm....
got a vacuum gauge? prolly not....

seriously though... now it's starting to sound like a leak between the throttle and AFM or a problem with the afm.
you didn't mutz with that back when you were banzai'ing down the street way bak when did you?
No I don't. But, its my birthday on tuesday and I'll actually have some extra cash...well maybe before I got to the strip club I'll buy one

Never messed with the AFM before...but it does kinda sound like its the problem. Also, I used to do some mudding and have got my truck pretty deep into water...so it might be dirty.

I'll test it. But yeah it starts and idles for a sec then the idle goes south and dies. So then I'll start it and give it gas and it will idle fine...but low.

Could be. I had a simaliar(sp?) starting issue with my '91 3.0 truck. Had to give it a lot of peddle to start on cold mornings, and if I quick tapped it after I got it started, it would stumble and die. I replaced my cold start injector. That fixed my problem. But like I said, that was on my 1st '91 3.0, tho.
Possibly, I did have my brother crank over my truck and a bunch of gas came out of the cs injector...so I assumed it was working and it was in range for the test. But I'll definitely keep this as an idea. Thanks!

a4r-
I read the problem like this: that it's hard to start, but with some pedal it will start and once it starts it idles fine. I don't see the CS injector or time switch being a problem here since it will start once (what I would argue) the AFM turns the fuel pump on. Getting what I'm thinking? But I'm open to discussion.
Exactly

Last edited by 91Toyota; Oct 19, 2008 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #76  
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
I see where your going Abe, and I do agree. But the reason I even said anything 'bout the CSI, was when I had the 3.0 replaced at Hamer Toyota in 2000 (new engine to the tune of $8k!) I did have no start/interment start condition. When I get it to start in the morning, (4:30-5am) it would stumble, run rough til it warmed up. If I pressed the gas, it would stumble more, almost die. Sometimes it would. But after the engine warmed up, no problems at all. Went thru all the obvious, and not so obvious.Nothing. When I pulled the CSI, the techs at Hamer had used my old injector, and placed both the lil brass spacers on the inside of the banjo bolt. Not 1 on the inside and the outside of the bolt, like it was suppose to be. When I replaced the injector (didn't test it) and placed the spacers correctly on the bolt, solved my problem.

It could have been just the incorrect placement of the spacers, or the injector itself. I'm thinkin of the both, in my case. Thats why I brought it up....I don't know if 91toy had messed with the CSI at all or not

Last edited by a4runnerfreak; Oct 19, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:33 PM
  #77  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
a4r-
I hear you. and I don't like Hamer Toyota. I think I've mentioned it before so I won't mention it again.... them makes lawyers look angelic bastards.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:36 PM
  #78  
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From: Salem, OR
I only have one spacer...on the inside. Is it really that big of a deal? lol
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:38 PM
  #79  
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
I only have one spacer...on the inside. Is it really that big of a deal? lol
what are we talking about again? spacing the inside of what?
...oh. nevermind.
when you have to shim the outside there's a problem.
just kidding.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
what he meant is there are two copper 'washers' and one goes on each side of the banjo fitting (a.k.a. fuel line) to the cold start injector, and the dealer placed BOTH washers on the same side of the injector.
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