91Toyota

Screwdriver. But I can tell the flow is good now since antifreeze comes out now...very little used to come out when I took off the line.

I don't think that is even possible


I'll take a look at the FSM and see what they have to say about the cold start timer and switch. Something like that.

My truck I don't think has a power issue. I think its the powerband I'm feeling. Where its torque from 1500-2000 then all h.p. from 2700+...if that makes any sense at all.

abecedarian

torque gets you moving, hp keeps you moving.

91Toyota

Yes.

Okay, tested the Cold start time switch and its between the resistance. Also, I tested the cold start injector and its "almost" in the resistance. I'm not sure. Because it says between 2-4 ohms and it showed up at 5...lol.

So, if these components work...what would you check next.

Checked:

-Cold Start Time Switch
-Cold Start Injector
-Coolant Temp Sensor
-VSV (fuel pressure control)

Not sure:

Air Auxiliary Valve
TPS


Whats next??? I'm out of ideas. I have a fuel pressure tester but I don't see a hookup anywhere...like my old Ford Ranger had a "shrader" valve.

abecedarian

well, I'd take 5 ohms as acceptable- if 1 ohm makes a difference in a solenoid, there's a problem... maybe it'll shut off sooner than it should... not in line with your problem though.

aav
tps
afm
timing
air conditioner IAV
afm (oh, I mentioned that, nevermind. )

all things considered... if you have the idle screw turned all the way in on the throttle body, air is getting around the throttle body somehow or somewhere and raising the idle speed... or you have a vacuum leak, which means air is getting around the throtttle body somehow or somewhere and raising the idle speed.

any exhaust leaks?

04tacomatrd5speed

you have a vacuum leak somewhere between the TB and where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head. Think of the engine as a giant air pump the intake (fuel side) being vacuum or (suction) and the exhaust side being positive pressure. If you have a leak on the suction side of the pump you can't maintain prime prime being proper fuel and air mixture in the cylinders. Check all your hoses on the intake side. Spray starting fluid along where intake manifold and cylinder head meet if the engine idles up or dies there is your leak.

abecedarian

I'm going to be bold enough to say he doesn't have a major vacuum leak anywhere, and most likely not even a minor leak.
at least not a leak that will throw his idle off 250 rpms...
twist my arm and I might say a poisoned O2 sensor is muddling things up a bit. but strange things happen.
but the basic setup things haven't been covered yet...
have they?

91Toyota

Timing still should be at 5 degrees btdc...wait I adjusted it idling higher than normal....shoot!

I'm adjusting the TPS tonight! Never done it before...but it looks REALLY easy...I'm just lazy and didn't want to do it

No a/c...so thats out.

I'll test the AFM tonight if the TPS is all good (it shouldn't be since I've moved that screw millions of times. As my last resort...I'm taking back the AAV

I definitely get the idea of a vacuum leak. It makes sense...but I swear I've sprayed starting fluid everywhere...lol. Yes, I do have an exhaust leak. Its the EGR tube. Not sure if its leaking on the intake or not...but definitely on the exhaust side. The bolt on the exhaust is stripped out and was only able to make one nut tight and its all crooked to hell.

Guess this makes me the idiot of yotatech huh?

I'll get back to work

abecedarian

hmm... exhaust leak will throw things for a loop

and the only idiot is the one that's told things and doesn't listen.

abecedarian

and timing is set with the idle at spec, so if the idle isn't at spec, timing is wrong...
and if setting the timing changes the idle, the idle needs adjusted back to spec and then the timing re-set....
until both idle speed AND timing are at spec

91Toyota

I don't think I have a major leak either. Possibly bad O2 sensor...exhaust is new.

I do admit I was lazy and I was looking for an answer to my problem fast...and I realize there isn't one...its my job to find it.

And...I have been incredibly lazy with my truck. I have failed to adjust my TPS because I didn't think it needed it. It does...because it now has a screw that it didn't have before. Basic things first...lol. Thanks for the help...again

91Toyota

yes it will. I'm going to take it off and put some gasket maker stuff on it. I can hear it. I forgot to hook up the whole tube last time...sounded like a damn diesel...lol.

Yeah...it was idling too high if I remember right. I just got it running and needed to drive it tomorrow...my lack of doing things right. As soon as I adjust the TPS and check a couple other doo-dads I'll make sure its right!

Your help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

abecedarian

your patronization is appreciated as well.

funny how you say you can't adjust the idle down (isn't that what you're complaining about, in a nutshell) and then tell me you'll adjust it down because of your "...lack of doing things right. As soon as I adjust the TPS and check a couple other doo-dads I'll make sure its right!...."

91Toyota

Well if its not going down there must be a reason! Yeah I hate electronic crap...but it makes my life easier

Well I can get my idle to go down...it just means that I have to adjust the AAV...which I don't think I should have to.

And that my truck won't start when the idle is set at 750 rpm when the engine is cold.


Wouldn't you think adjusting the TPS and such have a BIG factor in all of this?

You should've seen my ranger

abecedarian

if adjusting the main bleed / bypass screw on the throttle body cannot bring the idle down, there is something else wrong. that adjuster is meant to adjust the idle both below and above spec, so other things can be adjusted out/compensated for.
if that's not working... have you ever turned the throttle stop screw on the throttle body?
is there any chance the throttle cable is holding the throttle open?

91Toyota

Yes...and I totally agree with you. The hard part is finding out "why" its doing that. The TPS is adjusted and working properly AND everything is in range. Had help from my bro too.

I did back out the throttle plate screw all the way and turned the idle screw all the way in to make it idle at 750...and that was as low as it would go.

There is slack in the throttle cable too. I made sure it wasn't tight because it did make my truck idle high at one point in time. I'll report back my findings. thanks!

abecedarian

I like dill pickles.

91Toyota

Dill pickles? lol.

Anyway, nothing changed Oh well. Now I KNOW its adjusted...so whats next? My brother is convinced its the AAV because his piece of Honda's have the same valve that aren't supposed to be adjusted per the manual but you can adjust them. I don't know why he thinks that but I guess I'll tighten it all the way down and see what his faggoty ass has to say about it.

91Toyota

Okay...put starter fluid all over the engine. Idle did change at all...sounded normal the whole time.

However I turned the AAV all the way in and there is no difference. I'm going to take it back and see what they can do.

If that doesn't fix the problem then I have no clue what will. Thanks

91Toyota

Getting a new AAV tomorrow

Still under warranty...so its free! We'll see if that works

highway

I don't think the screwdriver would do the trick....I still say blow the line out with air pressure...mine did the exact same thing , high idle with the screw turned all the way in, surged when warmed up and at times it would idle normal the at the next red light the surge would be back .

highway