The surge is back...back again!
#22
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And I CAN turn the AAV BACK to normal...but my truck will idle at 2k and honestly this is the closest its been to normal. I'm sure if you read around anywhere, no one has played with the aav either...so really who the fvck knows?
If you want I can just take the aav back to the store and tell them its defective and get a new one...if thats what you want me to do???
Its funny because when I got the valve new...the d@mn thing worked fine the day I got it.
If you want I can just take the aav back to the store and tell them its defective and get a new one...if thats what you want me to do???
Its funny because when I got the valve new...the d@mn thing worked fine the day I got it.
#23
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Here's what I think is happening;
The aav is NOT closing all the way when warm. Allowing air by...thus making the idle higher. Because the idle screw is closed, and so is the butterly...and the only way (pretty much) for air to pass by is through that valve. Correct me if I'm wrong?
Along with a poorly adjusted and neglected TPS.
And I have NO clue about why its not idling when cold.
The aav is NOT closing all the way when warm. Allowing air by...thus making the idle higher. Because the idle screw is closed, and so is the butterly...and the only way (pretty much) for air to pass by is through that valve. Correct me if I'm wrong?
Along with a poorly adjusted and neglected TPS.
And I have NO clue about why its not idling when cold.
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Update:
Truck actually started this morning. It died as soon as it started...but I had to put my foot on the gas to start it...then it idles at approx. 700rpm.
Truck actually started this morning. It died as soon as it started...but I had to put my foot on the gas to start it...then it idles at approx. 700rpm.
#26
I took an air hose and blew out the small coolant line coming away from the throttle body and has been working great since early spring. toyota tech said they do it all the time as well.
highway
highway
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sounds like a vac leak some wheres in there buddy lwt it run warm and get a can of brake clean spray down the intake gaskets and fuel rail and stuff to see if its leaking if she almost stalls you found it
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as an afterthought, I might agree with highway... if the coolant passage is blocked, the only heat the IAV gets is through conduction, so when the engine is hottest- freeway driving for instance, it may be hot enough to fully close, but once the high speed stuff stops, the valve cools down and starts to open slightly.
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as an afterthought, I might agree with highway... if the coolant passage is blocked, the only heat the IAV gets is through conduction, so when the engine is hottest- freeway driving for instance, it may be hot enough to fully close, but once the high speed stuff stops, the valve cools down and starts to open slightly.
I haven't checked for vacuum leaks. I did before...but it was kinda hard. I'll definitely check this out. I had to work tonight and i have to work tomorrow so if I get some time in between i'll see what I can do. Thanks!
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Just found out that when I took off the TOP line from the AAV that goes next to the thermostat housing is clogged...but you can't tell from looking at it! I took a small screwdriver and put it in and it barely went in and I felt something squishy...hardly any antifreeze came out of the line!
Last edited by 91Toyota; 10-15-2008 at 04:25 PM.
#36
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Um...well it runs. Thats about it. No difference at all. Still doesn't start. Idle STILL doesn't change no matter what I spray anywhere. No difference at all. It idles at like 1000rpm right now...which I guess isn't bad considering the idle adjuster is all the way down. So, whats next????
I have to put my foot on the gas to start it. So something is wrong with either the aav valve (yes...its supposed to be open when cold...don't tell me its for hot idle only) or the cold start switch or the other thing.
I have to put my foot on the gas to start it. So something is wrong with either the aav valve (yes...its supposed to be open when cold...don't tell me its for hot idle only) or the cold start switch or the other thing.
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having to step on the throttle to start could be a few things- but could be the fuel pump is not running and the extra airflow deflects the afm and it turns the pump on... which could mean a wiring issue or circuit opening relay...
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-15-2008 at 09:15 PM.
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Wouldn't I have the check engine light on if so? That makes sense...because when I step on it (not flooring it) it seems to have power surges (like 2000-2200 is fast then from 2200-2400 slows down then 2400-2600 fast then from 2600-2800 is slow then 2800-redline is fast) kinda like that. How could I test this?
Also, I turned the idle up so I don't have to put my foot on the gas to start it. Wouldn't that mean the cold start injector isn't working?
Also, I turned the idle up so I don't have to put my foot on the gas to start it. Wouldn't that mean the cold start injector isn't working?