I would like to know if there are Heavy-Duty Clutch Master Cylinders available, or some sort of mod-equivalent.
My ability to shift is getting hard again and I have a feeling it's the CMC.
If I change out this CMC it will be the 3rd time I replace it.
The first time, the clutch pedal bracket was broken and made me think that the whole clutch was screwed, so I installed the HD clutch and a new cmc. I did not upgrade the clutch fork. After the new clutch, it was working okay, the pedal was still real low. I find out about and fix the clutch bracket and then a few months later my shifting started acting up. I find that there is a leak in the clutch hose so I order the steel-braided line and take it to a professional mechanic and have them install it along with a new cmc and clutch slave cylinder.
Now approx. 5 months later my shifting is getting hard again, the reservoir is going low faster than usual, and it feels a little bit damp at the cylinder piston behind the pedal. The pedal still activates very low, right at the floor. I barely release the pedal and it goes.
Something has always gone bad with this clutch and clutch system.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

What brand of clutch master cylinder are you using ?. It would be a good idea to get an Aisin (OEM) clutch master cylinder, there about the best you can get for these trucks. When ever I need to replace a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or master cylinder I always use Aisen (OEM) parts, because the parts that you buy at most parts stores are junk and not anywere near the quality of the original parts.

 

Yeah, the cmc on it now is some cheapie that the mechanic put on. They buy the cheapest parts. . .

 

I always buy OEM and I find myself asking my truck to break down so I can fix something.

 

The only clutch hydraulics that hold up on these trucks are the OEM Aisin parts. They're worth the price difference. Aside from that, make sure your pedal freeplay is adjusted correctly and you're good to go.

 

First you should not be losing any fluid other then when you bleed the system or open it for other reasons.

Sometimes when one needs to get things fixed you take what you can get your hands on.As no one stocks the Aisin parts I have used them from Napa Advanced Auto etc.With no real major problems.:jessica:

I have never used any of the Aisin clutch parts but I have them sitting on the shelf for when I do need them.

 

The reservoir shouldn't be getting low period.
Find a new mechanic.

:wabbit2:

 

I just replaced the clutch MC, and it was a really easy job. Buy the parts and do it yourself so you know what you're getting. When you bleed the system you get a really nice view of exactly what is happening too. You know right away what isn't working and why when you're staring right at the slave cylinder.

 

Recently replaced my master and slave with this, and am pleased so far. Price is very reasonable too.

John

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-PickU...1727d6&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks a lot guys. This is definitely renewing my confidence.
I'm glad to hear I might not have to drop my transmission to replace the clutch fork or anything.
I found an AISIN cmc on RockAuto.com for $45

For what reason would I HAVE to drop the tranny?

 

Rock Auto is a really good place to buy parts for your truck. Ive bought many parts from them over the years. They have good prices and fast shipping, and ive never had a single problem with any of my orders or any of the parts that ive bought from them.

 

Only things you'd have to drop the trans for would be to get at the clutch itself, or the throwout bearing and clutch fork, everything else is external.

 

Well I just installed an Aisin Master Cylinder

1) It does not go into gear. Before the replacement, I would have to pump the clutch a few times to get it into first to get going, then the other gears fell in okay, still a bit rough, but it was drivable. Now it is not drivable at all.

2) The clutch pedal does not reach the ignition button. The previous CMC was reaching it okay, meaning I could turn on the truck depressing the clutch pedal. Then it stopped, and I had to use the Clutch Start Cancel button. Now, with the new CMC I cannot start the truck by depressing the clutch pedal, I can only use the CSC button to start the truck.

3) I adjusted the CMC piston travel. I made it as long as possible just to see if the length would allow enough fluid to activate the clutch ( or deactivate it) and it would not, and it would not reach the ignition switch. Then I adjusted the cmc piston to as short as possible so that the pedal was near the floor to see if it would at least activate the ignition switch and it still does not reach.

4) The pedals bracket was fixed and welded about a year ago, maybe less. . .

- I bled the system by having my friend depress the clutch pedal 4 times, then I would open the valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder on the bottom of the vehicle. We did this enough to have to refill the clutch reservoir twice. We did not let it get low enough till completely empty.

- I cannot move my car. I can have my brother help me tow it back home. I wanted to call a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop but I do not have $1500 laying around to spend on this.

- I want to push my truck off a cliff and go down with it.

Any help is very appreciated

 

Woah, things got really bad real fast. You have some strange problems. When I reinstalled my CMC it went straight into the bracket to problem and everything was still in the right position.

If you get under the truck, looking right at the slave cylinder and someone depresses the clutch pedal how far does the slave cylinder extend?

I found it very helpful to bleed the MC prior to bleeding the slave cylinder. It's actually easier to do that IMO than a bench bleed, and no one says you have to do either. But I already had the stuff from bleeding my brake MC, so I did it anyway. I then bled the slave cylinder and I could watch it extend by an inch or two when it was working right.

However, it really seems like whoever repaired your bracket just did it wrong. That just sounds really fishy.

 

I'm having trouble understanding bleeding the slave cylinder? I thought bleeding the system the way I described bleeds the entire system-

 

Yea, it does. That is what I meant by no one says you have to do it in two steps. The FSM just says to open the bleeder screw over and over as you have done and that's good enough whether you've replaced the master, slave or whatever.

When I replaced my master, I thought it was taking too long to bleed the system. So I bled the MC in one step, and then started bleeding the system through the slave cylinder bleeder screw. In that way I was done in about 10 minutes total, a big plus when your wife is pumping the pedal and only has angry birds to distract her.

 

Hmm. I'll see about giving that a shot

Well I'm getting a slave cylinder from o'reilly's . it's $12 and it'll be in tomorrow morning.
I know it's going to be a cheap cylinder but. . .oh well. i'm desperate.

 

Did you bench bleed the MC? The clutch switch is adjustable for a reason, move it to where it works. Try gravity bleeding it, just open the bleeder at the slave and let it drain a couple resivoirs worth of fluid through, don't touch the pedal. Then set your pedal free-play to spec and nowhere else, adjust the clutch switch to suit this if you have to.

 

I installed the Slave today. Nothing. With the slave valve open the pedal reaches the ignition switch. But after closing the Slave valve the pedal does not reach.

So as of now: new master, new slave, pedal does not reach ignition swith to allow me to start the car with the clutch pedal depressed. And with car on (by way of clutch start cancel), the vehicle does not go into gear.

This is bad

 

I assume when you say "with the slave valve open..." you mean the slave cylinder bleeder screw?