snap-on

ok so i didnt spend hrs surfing the board for what past opions are on studs or bolts for headers.

Downey sent a bolt "kit" out with the headers that are sitting in the garage waiting to go on this weekend....

I *THINK* NWOR did the same with my truck headers but i didnt put those one, and the shop that did it used the stock studs.

pros and cons to both ways?

What say you?

(personally i havent decided which would be better or worse)

kyle_22r

studs are a much better idea, less likely to strip the threads out than bolts. plus they put more clamping force on the flange.

99SC4Runner

I ordered the stud kit for my NWOR headers and I liked the lock nuts that came with the studs. Theoretically I shouldn't ever have to tighten them up again

Snorkeldepth

Timely question! I asked about this before and the consensus seems to be that studs are better because you can do a better job cinching them up without the fear of stripping the head. Downey sells a stud kit. I'm not sure why you'd need this instead of the stock studs unless there's an unthreaded shoulder on the stock stud that doesn't matter with the stock manifold due to a thicker flange (I don't know if this is true or not).

So, studs are better. But, are stock studs good enough or do we need aftermarket?

Sorry, dinner's ready . . . . gotta run!

Churnd

I replaced my Downey bolts with my stock studs after running the bolts for a while. Bolts are just such a PITA to work with. Who wants the stress of threading a bolt into an aluminum head while trying to hold the header in place at the same time? Talk about steady hands.

FastCat

I'm of the opinion that studs are great if you're going to be routinely installing and uninstalling whatever you're using the studs for. Most folks just want to install their headers only once. Plus, some headers may have clearance problems with studs and you have to use bolts.

Headers shouldn't have to be torqued on super tight anyway, and if you use a torque wrench and put some Loctite on the bolts, there's no worry about stripping the threads in the heads or the bolts working loose.

I have no qualms whatsoever using bolts. In fact, I've used bolts to attach headers on a V8 motor I've used for drag racing without any problems at all.

Either way works, but if it's a PITA to use studs, it's not worth the fight to try and use studs just for the sake of having studs, IMO.

Silver_Truck

I'm running studs on mine because NWOR threw em in free. The stock studs aren't long enough for the NWOR headers due to their thick flange (on my truck at least). I've got a spare bag of studs laying around here somewhere, if you'd be interested then I'll look around for em

Snorkeldepth

So, will stock studs work with Downey headers? I can't figure out why using the stock studs would tend to be a PITA unless the stock studs usually come out when removing the stock manifold.

Let us know if we need to order Downey studs for Downey headers (assuming we don't use the Downey bolts).

Churnd

Bolts on a V8... I could live with that. Bolts on the 3.0? Hell no! When you get to the passengers side flange bottom bolts, you'll see what I mean.

Odds are if you're putting headers on your 3.0, they're probably gonna leak at one point or the other. Save yourself the headache and use studs. If you can get ahold of some aftermarket studs, more power to you. If not, I ran the stockers for 2 years with no problems. Loctite is your friend.

snap-on

let see, of the 3 engines sitting in my garage at the moment, 1 block had all but 2 studs still left in it after takeing the stock manafolds off. block #2 virtually every stud came out when i the stock ones off with the impact. Ill let you know how #3 goes.

I dont see a problem with running the stock studs back in. yes i have test fit my downey headers on the stock studs (just to admire the new headers on the side of the block) you have more than enough thread left on my mid 90's 3vze.

studs it is, thanks guys

04sport4x4

I have been using the stock studs for the past 5-6 years with my Downey header. There is plenty of thread above the flange and no problems with exhaust leaks. The only thing I did notice about 1½ years after the install was a couple of the nuts were only finger tight. Since then I just give them a check about every 6 months. Of course that is easy for me with the 22re, not so easy with the 3.0.

suprathepeg

Think about this though if your gonna reuse the stock studs. If they are pitted or rusted then you won't be getting "true" torque on the header. Make sure you can run a nut all the way down the thread with your fingers before you reuse them.

Snorkeldepth

I guess I better ask Jasper if they use new studs . . . . . better yet, demand that they give me new studs for that price!

mt_goat

I'd go with the Downey studs for Downey headers and throw the Downey bolts in the scrap box. They are only about $20 and come with steel locknuts (a big plus in my books). Downey says in their catalog that the OEM studs are too long but (if true) maybe you could cut them down and find some steel locknuts for them at Ace. I would be very careful not to strip or cross-thread the aluminum threads in the head. My 2cents.

kyle_22r

i don't like locknuts on headers apps myself -- my favorite way of doing it is to use a plate washer, then a split lock washer, then a regular nut. works like a charm, no loosening at all after several months, whereas if i waited that long, i'd be missing nuts with the factory setup.

Churnd

Yep... it's a lot easier to thread a stud into the head without having to hold the header up at the same time. Trust me, I've been there. You have no idea how easy it is to strip the threads in one of those holes.

mt_goat

I'd also do what you did and cut the manifolds between the pipes. Here is your pic Chris, I'm still hosting it:http://community.webshots.com/photo/...69352074WnAXiX

mt_goat

Chris also did a good write-up:https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ers/churnd.htm