nerdnoises

This started off as a "I'm just going to adjust my brakes really quick" and now my truck is stuck in the driveway.

I went to adjust the parking brake and turned the star until the shoes started to drag a bit. I went to back it off a little and one thing lead to another and now the shoes are jammed to the drum. I tried to take the drum off completely and it'll move off the axle but won't budge on the shoes side of the equation. Is there any way to release the adjuster tool when the star won't turn backwards? Is there a release spring somewhere?

Odin

The only release mechanism is a lever to keep the star wheel from backing off. The only way to access it is through that small access hole on the upper part of the backing plate. Use one small screwdriver to hold the lever up and another screwdriver to turn the star wheel.


I need to do the same thing to get my drums off because I'm having brake issues.
It's been years since I've done it (on a different vehicle) and from what I remember it didn't make me too happy doing it with the car jacked up. A lift would be sooooo much easier on a person's body, a contortionist I am not. Come to think of it I did see a tool that had a hook on the end of it that was included in a small inexpensive ($5) pick set yesterday. I think maybe a person could slip that around the lever and be able to hold it up much easier than by using a screwdriver.
From what I remember the screwdriver slipped off a lot of times and made it take a lot longer than it needed to. Plus if the star wheel is stuck I might have to use a little force with a hammer. That means no free hands.

RJR

For future reference, the system is designed to be self-adjusting, assuming you use the parking brake regularly. If the parking brake isn't holding, the problem is probably not the setting of the star wheel. The first thing to do is to make sure all of the cables and linkages are freed up and moving properly. Then adjust the cable length on the handle to where the handle doesn't hit the stops before the brake starts engaging at the wheel. At that point, exercise the parking brake about 30 times and you should be pretty good to go.

If you go after the star wheel first to correct a problem that is actually in the parking brake cable/linkage, you'll wind up exactly where the OP is, with brakes too tight and having to back off an overtightened adjuster.

That being said, it's not uncommon to have to back the adjuster wheel off a bit to get the drums off, especially if the shoes have worn a groove into the drums. The first time is the hardest, since you probably don't have a good mental picture of what's going on inside, and you can't see through that little adjustment hole. Once you've got one apart and can see how it works, it's actually pretty easy. The basic process is to take one small flat-blade screwdriver and feel inside past the star wheel until you feel the spring locking lever. Push against that in a straight outboard direction to release the star wheel. Then the wheel should turn fairly easily with your second screwdriver. You want to turn the inboard side of the wheel (side nearest the hole) down to release it.

This link www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake03.pdf will give you more insight as to how things work. Note that our brakes are adjusted by action of the parking brake, not by braking in reverse as was used on most American drum brakes.

I should also add that, if your brake pedal seems normal, for sure the rear brakes are not far out of adjustment in the "too loose" direction. If they were, your pedal would have excessive travel as the master cylinder tries to provide enough fluid to move the rear shoes an excessive distance to the drums. If the pedal feels normal, your parking brake problems are in the linkage.

Odin

Is this a correct assumption:
If the pedal is normal height but a shoe is too tight it's-

1. Stuck wheel cylinder

2. Stuck/unlubed star wheel

3. Stuck or misadjusted E-drake cable
(one or both sides)

The shoe on my drivers side is excessively sticking/dragging compared to the other side and my pedal height is normal. I'm just wondering what I'll find when I can get the drum off

RJR

Or (4), the star wheel has been over adjusted. This would have to have been done manually, as the self-adjuster is designed not to do that.

The pedal will be normal height unless one or more rear brakes are adjusted too loose. Too tight won't affect pedal height.

Unless the star wheel threads are frozen, it should be possible to loosen the brake enough to get the drum off even if the emergency brake and/or a wheel cylinder is stuck, but it may take a lot of turns.

You can try inserting a couple of bolts (8mm, I think) into the two threaded holes near the lug studs and try to force the drum off that way. Use even pressure on both bolts, and turn a little at a time while smacking the drum with a hammer.

The last resort is to cut the drum off. Replacement drums are cheap, and yours probably need replacing or at least turning anyway.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I guess depending just where you live I see quite a few adjusters rusted solid from the Emergency Brake never being used.

Then from that the Bell cranks are seized in the brackets.

Backing these adjusters off is like Ron said quite easy after the first time.

The first thing I do Is disconnect the cables use a hammer to beat the bell crank in .

new adjusters and bell crank brackets and the internal E-brake linkage and new drums the first time I do the brakes.

Odin

wyoming9, That sure sounds like what I need to do.

I found a video of a guy doing everything but disconnecting the E-brake cable, backing off the star wheel, and using the threaded holes to drive the drum off.
It's long and poorly done but it gets some of the options across if things are really bad. I don't like that he hit the back and sides of the drums though, that just says warp to me.

trth

Where do you get the bell cranks from? ....couldn't find any at the autoparts stores. I have an 85 4x4

Odin

.....

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know all the Emergency Brake parts other then cables are dealer only items .

I have not really looked else where lately just to easy to call the dealer and get what I need.

4RunnerRogers

I found my e brake cable on Ebay and it still working great!

Odin

Doh, he's probably right about that. wyoming's a pretty experienced feller.
Shows my lack of experience with brake parts

I thought you were talking about parts between the drum and backing plate.
I know for sure a regular auto parts place can get you a bag with all new springs, pins, everything for about 12 bucks.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It is most often referred to as a Brake spring Kit!!

One of those things that should get changed when changing shoes but some skimp to save on money.

Odin

Well hey looky here at Carquest
Dorman Parking Brake Bell Crank Part Number: 924-750
Vehicle Options:
Drive Type Name: 4WD

From dorman's site
Parking Brake Bell Crank
Application Summary: Toyota 4Runner 1995-86, Toyota Pickup 1995-86, Toyota T100 1995-93

You said 84 though

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Thing is the bell cranks are most often seized in the bell crank brackets .

Now if one lives in the Sunny South west it just might be possible to get this all apart and make nice.

Living where I do most often involves a hammer and a zip disc meaning new brackets are a very needed new item.

most times the bolts break off as well

The nice thing is Toyota sells them.

I have fixing this down to a art I have done so many .

I really need to think about taking pictures but my work habits are ingrained long before there was any need to have pictures of anything like this.