I have an 88 4x2 with a 22R and I cannot get the crankshaft bolt off. I have tried putting a breaker bar on the frame and cranking the engine but that does not work. I hooked up some jumper cables and a battery jumper for more juice and it still will not work. Does anyone have an idea to get the bolt off of there?

 

Are you sure your battery cables are on tight enough? That trick wasn't working for me either, but I noticed the voltmeter was only reading about 10 volts. I went and tightened the battery clamps, and that sucker came right off.

 

I've had more than one of these that don't come off via that method.
You need to stop the pulley from moving. To do that, I used a chain wrench from northern tool. Wrap the pulley in rubber (old inner tube works great - just one layer) - get the chain on correctly and stressed against the frame.

BABB (Big ass Breaker Bar) - I mean big. I think I went to a 3' bar last time.
Turn.. Try to turn it in a swift motion... Make SURE the socket stays tight against the pulley.

I've only seen one case (non-22R) where the bolt was put on with serious lock tight. In that case, the bolt had to be heated up with a torch, lit up all of the seals.. Burnt off the lock tight and then came off..

 

mine came right off with a socket,it was the flywheel bolts that were a pain

 

Thanks for the advice. Is the chain wrench you are talking about look like a pair of vice grips with a chain on it?

 

i broke a 1/2" then a 3/4" AND then 1" impact wrench trying to remove mine. all replaced by snap-on
it finally had to be air chiselled off. heat was used during the 1" trial.

 

I recently took mine off.

Using a 24" breaker bar.

Put a paving block in front of and behind the back tires. Crawled underneath and wrenched it off. Had to replace my flywheel because some idgit that was thinking it would be cool to try the starter method chipped a bunch of teeth on me.

Yes you will have to crank the drive line tight. It should be in 5th gear, low range, but it is possible. Tighten up the drive line, have someone push the block up tight and keep going till it comes loose. You will know you have to do something different it you can pull the truck up on top of a 6" paver block.

 

No.. It looks like this:

 

I would not try the starter method, imho. Get a loooooong breaker bar and lots of patience and it will come off!

 

Thanks for the replies. I tried putting it in gear and I put enough force on it for the clutch to slip, so I might get one of those chain wrenches.

 

at the risk of upseting you, are you placing the correct way?
i.e. not tightening it.

 

I am turning it the correct way. I thought about that, and I also figured there was a chance that it could be reverse thread, but I if it was then the starter trick that everyone uses would not work. Don't worry, you did not upset me.

 

You got more issues then than just the crankbolt.

If your clutch is slipping while doing this, it's time for replacement. If your crankbolt was welded, you should have been able to climb that block in front of the wheel.

If you can't and you can feel it slipping, your clutch is not getting a good lock up anymore.:cry: :cry: :cry:

 

I've slipped the clutch also under a lot of force.. Torque = force * lever arm.. So it's possible to put @#$@# of force in terms of ft/lbs on that clutch with a breaker bar.

This is why it's critical to hold the pulley. If you put the strain on the driveline, there is a lot of "give" to the system...

 

Mine was really stuck tight so reading all of the threads made me try again.I heated the crank bolt up for a few minutes and sprayed penetrating oil .I put the 19mm impact socket with my 1/2 inch rachet with a 3 foot pipe and it took me and my son to break the bolt off the crank.
I usually do it the starter method but it did not work.Thanks guys Im working on my 1990 2wd truck timing chain change.

 

Those big ol' chain wrenches can cost over a hundred bucks too! But I would throw in my vote, based on experience, to the heat, penetrant, 3' bar, chain wrench on the pulley. Its not good to transfer all that force to other driveline components.

 

Mine was on the engine stand when I did it. I put a large screwdrive throught the cam gear with a small piece of wood under it to protect the head. Then a put a long breaker bar to the crank bolt and it worked like a charm. I was replacing the timing set during a rebuild so I wasn't really worried about wrecking the chain or anything.

 

Maybe I should just put a Supra engine in it instead.

 

Did you try that wrench I mentioned? It's never failed me...

 

Now your talking reasonable.:hillbill :