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RAD4Runner thank you for directing me to this thread.
I would like to ask a couple questions, I hope you don’t mind.
so I see this way of wiring in a relay which seems pretty easy. I also seen folks use a Ford Bronco starter solenoid and wiring it up that way.
is one way better than the other?
also when going route with the new relay is it necessary to add a kill switch when you have an automatic like I do?
thank you in advance.
Happy to help.
Ford Bronco relay (Ford calls it solenoid), like Kid Vermicious did on T4R.org, if handy is good. I would prefer to use a Toyota relay fot the same reason we chose a Toyota truck, not Ford. - LOL!
Find one from 2nd or 3rd Gen 4Runner from junkyard.
I prefer a kill switch for reason I state above, but since Auto trans is parked in "park", OK without.
In an alternate universe, I buy the same '88 22RE DLX 4x4 Xtracab pickup that I purchased last month, but I don't come across RAD4Runner's starter relay re-wire, which causes me to get stranded somewhere, or at least delayed enough that I possibly am eaten by a bear or something.
But not in this universe, where I learned of the issue's existence, confirmed my pickup had it, and then pre-emptively sorted the issue before it caused a problem, saving myself from what could've very well been a sticky situation.
Many thanks from myself, as well as the kids I haven't had yet.
Can someone please have a look at this. I would like to add a starter relay to my 1984 22R. I'm working with what I believe is a late 90's Toyota starter relay.
Based on the above image This is how I believe it should be wired. Can I get some confirmation?
1 (black) - To ignition
2 ((black w/red) - To ground
3 (black w/white) - To starter
5 (white) - To battery
Can someone please have a look at this. I would like to add a starter relay to my 1984 22R. I'm working with what I believe is a late 90's Toyota starter relay.
Based on the above image This is how I believe it should be wired. Can I get some confirmation?
1 (black) - To ignition
2 ((black w/red) - To ground
3 (black w/white) - To starter
5 (white) - To battery
Correct. Make sure you fuse the wire from battery, as close to battery as possible.
Regarding this warning about adding a kill switch incase the relay shorts. That would go on the power wire correct, could it go on the ground instead? Also, if the relay shorted when I was away from the truck, the kill switch wouldn't be of any use and if I was in the truck, I could just pop it out of gear. I think I am misunderstanding something here?
Hey RAD!! Ironically enough, I’ve completed my hunter/gatherer phase of the CS144 alternator/big 3 upgrade/(AND X2 Battery upgrade), per another one of your threads and plan to start that today!! Just sat down with my first cup o Joe and started my next research project “remote starter solenoid for ‘88 3vze/auto 4Runner” …. And lo and behold here ya are again!!!
My FIRST course of action will be to figure out WHICH way my truck is actually wired.. because of previous (solved!) no-start gremlin hunts, I’ve found it to be a total nightmare trying to find accurate diagrams (wiring schematics/relay locations) for my particular 1stGen.
Someone posted: “I am puzzled, however, because 1989 V6’s are wired wrong. A schematic of a 1988 V6 3VZE posted somewhere in the forum shows correct wiring. Perhaps the 1989 engineer did not know of the correction and re-used the wrong schematic?”
From what I’m gathering over my first cup of coffee is YOUR POST IS THE ANSWER ONCE AGAIN!! So thanx a million for taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise!
Still not certain I won’t have to consider an actual remote starter solenoid in the future, (like I need to do on my ‘78 Scout ii). I installed a set of Thorley’s headers and there’s about 1/8” between the header and the starter. I’ve always assumed heat sink is a big part of my issue because of that.
Probably a different thread but I’m essentially a noob at how to use this forum.. been a member for years and read/screenshot google searches from YOTATECH practically everyday, but I’m on my cellphone and this kinda sux trying to navigate
Just laughed out loud when I found ANOTHER thread from you in my search for answers!! Just took the time to say thank you!
Last edited by Run4Mud74; Dec 17, 2022 at 08:38 AM.
... found it to be a total nightmare trying to find accurate diagrams (wiring schematics/relay locations) for my particular 1stGen.
... I’m on my cellphone and this kinda sux trying to navigate
Happy to help.
if you could not find schematic,.just find the relay OTHER than the Circuit Opening Relay that clicks whn u crank.
If it exists, it would probably be in a fuse block in engine compartment.
Yeah. The Frankenstein years, especially when the pickup and 4runner bodies did not evolve at same time are so confusing.
I hate forums on my phone as well. LOL!
In simplest terms but with details... Here's how to add a 5tarter r3l4y[:
[color=#e74c3c]CAVEAT:
WHEN THE 5TART3R R3LAY IS WIRED CORRECTLY SIMILAR TO LATER MODELS, IN THE UNLIKELY* EVENT THAT THE CONTACTS CLOSE* OR SHORT* FOR SOME REASON THE 5TART3R WILL CRANK EVEN WITHOUT IGN1T1ON_SW1TCH BEING TURNED ON. IF PARKED IN FIRST GEAR, TRUCK MAY MOVE AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. A K1LL SW1TCH BETWEEN THE FUSE AND THE RELAY PIN 30 IS HIGHLY-RECOMMENDED. JUST KEEP WIRE RUN TO MINIMUM AND DO NOT TELL US WHERE YOU PUT THE KILL SWITCH - LOL!
Use a relay with at least 30-amp rating. STRONGLY-RECOMMENDED to add kill switch between fuse and pin 30.
HERE'S HOW TO WIRE ADDED STARTER RELAY WHERE THERE WAS NONE
HERE'S SUGGESTED ACTUAL CONSTRUCTION OF RETROFIT
*CAVEAT:
WHEN THE 5TART3R R3LAY IS WIRED CORRECTLY SIMILAR TO LATER MODELS, IN THE UNLIKELY* EVENT THAT THE CONTACTS CLOSE* OR SHORT* FOR SOME REASON THE 5TART3R WILL CRANK EVEN WITHOUT IGN1T1ON_SW1TCH BEING TURNED ON. IF PARKED IN FIRST GEAR, TRUCK MAY MOVE AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. A K1LL SW1TCH BETWEEN THE FUSE AND THE RELAY PIN 30 IS HIGHLY-RECOMMENDED. JUST KEEP WIRE RUN TO MINIMUM AND DO NOT TELL US WHERE YOU PUT THE KILL SWITCH - LOL!
As far as I know at this point I DON’T think I have a starter relay. I’ve got a COR and “EFIfuse”??? (Round metal one under flasher relay driver kick panel) Might add it took me a full weekend before I even FOUND the damn COR cause per research wasn’t even sure I had one being automatic.. was under the assumption the NSS replaced it on mine! Neither here nor there but as you say.. definitely Frankenstein years!!
Anyway…. Quoted what I believe needs to be my course of action when I decide to tackle this issue, of course I’m assuming I have NO starter relay. It’s NOT in engine bay fuse block, or either kick panel I did find blower relays/ a/c fuses left of glovebox when I found COR.
ACTUALLY, you think it’s even possible to do a “remote starter solenoid” on these?? That heat sink issue will ALWAYS be an issue..
I trust Toyota relays better than I do aftermarket so I suggest you find one from first-gen through 2nd gens. Should work with starter solenoid on *our first-gen 4Runner.
Merry Christmas!
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 21, 2022 at 06:35 AM.
Awesome!! Thanks for that!! Pulling all that relays/fuses off that 2nd Gen. is on the sooner than later list. Starter relay is definitely one of the next little projects! Realized I was confused when I was thinking I was going off one of your writeups on the alternator/BIG3 upgrade ..believe it was DOC’s write up. Finally finished that last night.. LOVE IT!! She was putting out 15 amps with the meter at the new X2 battery, (14.7 at gauge in cab), and never dropped below 13.9 with EVERYTHING running and the sound system CRANKED!! I call it a win. However.. “Frankenstein Years” bit my ass again and cost me an extra day or two. Took enough pix to do my own write up for those who dare to do it on their’88 3vze/auto 1stGen. Lol.. sorry, wrong thread.. I’m just excited about it and had to share 😂 ..have a Merry Christmas too RAD!!
I thought I had settled into the easy life....wrong!
Hey there, I believe I am replying to Rad4, I am new here and thought there wouldn't be a whole lot on old Toyotas that could stump me, so , yea, I was wrong. They don't break down too often but I have been made to pay on this one. I sure could use some direction if time permits. First, I have a 1984 4x4 pickup 22R SR5, power steering pump and smog pump were still intact when I got it. I guess I better tell the whole story. All was well and she was running great and then one day my smog pump locked up, I, being the know it all I am immediately decided my starter was coming apart and dragging on the flywheel so I hopped across the street and grabbed a rebuilt one and thought I was going to be on my way. I fired it up to head home and quickly realized, of course by the nasty screeching noise, that it had actually been my smog pump, so I removed the belt and figured it was probably time to change out that old starter anyway. I headed home and the next day I started getting a charge light on the dash, but along with that I was not able to start the truck with the key. I had hot to it from the battery but needed to use a jumper to get it to engage. I revved it up a bit and got the charge warning light to go out but that only worked for 10-20 miles so I figured it was time for an alternator. Tests confirmed my alternator was not charging so I replaced it and was on my way the next evening, yea, till the lights drained my battery (brand new BTW) I had to go charge it up the next day and head home in daylight. I again tested the alternator and it was not charging so I removed it and went for another rebuilt, Napa also tested it and it wasn't kicking out a single volt, so I took the new one home and installed it. The 2nd alternator is also failing to charge, meanwhile I have lost my signals, hazards, wipers, gauges, dash lights and cig lighter. I do have headlights and heater blower fan. Hope that novel didn't bore you but maybe to make a long story short. I should have asked "Hey! Does that wiring solution work on an 84....And BTW I also replaced my steering column ignition wiring harness thinking the insides were worn out of it. Thanks in advance for any input.
From: exo-reality -wave if you see me; Front Range, CO
WElcome to YotaTech.
You shouild probably copy this to a thread in the proper model forum, likely to get more like answers there.
(If you use copy/paste, put it in a text editor before moving to a new thread. Else it turns 'invisible')
1 year to the day of my last reply in this thread -- I've just now completed this starter relay wiring correction on a 2nd vehicle -- the '87 4Runner 22RE DLX M/T that I picked up during the winter. And just like on my '88 pickup last year, I did not have issues with the stock wiring arrangement. . . yet. . .
There's no tellin' what sticky situation I might've ended up in had it not been for this thread. Thanks again Rad!
My 2003 4runner sr5 v8 car got some rain flood inside the driver and passenger carpet and now the car tries to start without the key in sometimes. Now it starts when the key is turned to the on position without fully starting the car. I took the starter relay out but it I still hear it click somewhere else. How can I check the wiring to find the short? I changed the starter but it still has the same issue. Do you have any ideas? Everything in the car works it even drove home but now it has this starting problem after parking it overnight. Not sure if this is the right place in the forum to ask this question I'm new.
Last edited by Nader4run; Dec 8, 2023 at 04:23 PM.
I setup this relay kit a few years ago on my 1991 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 5-speed manual. This is a great kit and it's insane that it didn't fix it as I already addressed almost everything else including: Starter (twice plus brush rebuild kit), battery, factory style relay, ignition switch, and this relay kit from @RAD4Runner . I would get the click no start issue sporadically, sometimes it took 10 turns of the key, and sometimes it took over 50! So I just lived with it. I recently sold my 4Runner to my uncle and he couldn't stand it, so we decided to go with Plan B. I setup a push start button to bypass the ignition key system going to the Relay Kit. So I basically have it wired directly to the Relay. It seems to work great so far, just turn key to ON position and press momentary button (switch) to activate the starter. The car starts up every time so far. I feel if we don't see any issues for a good month, it's fixed 100%. Pus Start button installed in place of clock just right of the ignition switch. Wiring diagram to connect Momentary switch (Push Start) to Relay kit.
Sep 23, 2021 | 08:28 AM
Relay kit didn't fix my issue, PLAN B...
