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Starter Rebuild

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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:16 PM
  #1  
DStewart's Avatar
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From: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
Starter Rebuild

So was having issues with my 93 4runner starting. Have done a ton of research on the common issue. When key to acc, everything works fine, no dimming of lights. Checked all connections to and from battery. When trying to start, no clicking from the starter. Checked the starter relay and it is good.

My question is, if I can not hear any click from the starter solenoid, will rebuilding the starter and putting in new contacts fix anything? Should I buy a starter from a wrecker and just put new contacts in that?

The starter is currently removed.

Thanks for the help,
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:27 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by DStewart
So was having issues with my 93 4runner starting. Have done a ton of research on the common issue. When key to acc, everything works fine, no dimming of lights. Checked all connections to and from battery. When trying to start, no clicking from the starter. Checked the starter relay and it is good.

My question is, if I can not hear any click from the starter solenoid, will rebuilding the starter and putting in new contacts fix anything? Should I buy a starter from a wrecker and just put new contacts in that?

The starter is currently removed.

Thanks for the help,
It's pretty easy to do a no-load test on a starter with a decent pair of jumper cables and a small jumper wire.

Positive cable to the starters main cable lug, neg cable to the starter frame, and momentarily jumper positive to the small solenoid terminal.

It'll either throw the drive out and run, or it won't.

Pays to have your foot on it so the starter torque doesn't flip the starter I f you've got a big enough vise, that would be an alternate holding option.

Disclaimer, disclaimer!! don't hurt yourself. Just because I have done such things and survived, is no guarantee that you can......
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Since you ave the starter removed. Millball's test procedure is good. ^^^

Originally Posted by DStewart
... When trying to start, no clicking from the starter. Checked the starter relay and it is good.
Incomplete description of the problem.
How did you know starter relay is good?
Did it click? Did it send 12V to the starter solenoid control wire shown here?

...if I can not hear any click from the starter solenoid, will rebuilding the starter and putting in new contacts fix anything...
IF starter solenoid does not click. Most likely, based on lots of similar issues discussed in forum, the problem is upstream.
IF starter solenoid clicks when you do Millball's procedure above BUT motor does not turn, then. most likely it is the solenoid contacts. Many posts show how it can be replaced inexpensively.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jul 9, 2017 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:53 PM
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Checked the starter relay for continuity without power, and then with power from a d battery. Going to test the starter now
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DStewart
When key to acc, everything works fine, no dimming of lights. Checked all connections to and from battery. When trying to start, no clicking from the starter. Checked the starter relay and it is good.
I had similar issues/symptom(s), including no clicking from the starter it turned out to be 2 things.
1) Fusible link had a bad connection. I replaced it and it worked well for a little while. Then got a no start but with clicking from the starter solenoid .
2) added a relay, per RAD4's instructions - problem completely solved.

RAD4 is the "Relay Guru" Oooohhhmmm


Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
How did you know starter relay is good?

IF starter solenoid does not click. Most likely, based on lots of similar issues discussed in forum, the problem is upstream.
IF starter solenoid clicks when you do Millball's procedure above BUT motor does not turn, then. most likely it is the solenoid contacts. Many posts show how it can be replaced inexpensively.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DStewart
Checked the starter relay for continuity without power, and then with power from a d battery. Going to test the starter now
Incomplete answer...
It has continuity, but "Did it send 12V to the starter solenoid control wire shown here?" Otherwise your wiring is bad.

Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
RAD4 is the "Relay Guru" Oooohhhmmm
LOL!

Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jul 9, 2017 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 06:35 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. Tested the starter and everything is functioning. Going to redo the contacts while it's out anyways but confirms it is something up stream. I will have to do some more testing tomorrow. If I do not get 12v at the solenoid control wire, would you recommend simply replacing the starter relay, or should I upgrade to one of the hot shot relays? If the relay is good that leaves it to bad connection or wiring somewhere?

Last edited by DStewart; Jul 9, 2017 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 10:33 PM
  #8  
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BTW, do you have a manual or auto transmission? Canada model? Pls share pics of your relay block.

Originally Posted by DStewart
... Tested the starter and everything is functioning. Going to redo the contacts while it's out anyways but confirms it is something up stream. I will have to do some more testing tomorrow.
Wen you're done, reinstall the starter and double-check functionality of solenoid, motor and wiring using this procedure (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52367443). Remember that the ground to engine block and the positive battery cable need to be connected well. Good connection means bare, shiny metal tightly touching bare, shiny metal.

If I do not get 12v at the solenoid control wire, would you recommend simply replacing the starter relay.
No. Toyota components are almost always bullet-proof. The problem often lies in how they are wired or assembled.

If the relay is good that leaves it to bad connection or wiring somewhere?
Most likely yes. Which brings us to next step...

Verify that your starter relay wiring is correct. Trust but verify here: (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52370887)
IF wired wrong. Correct it according to schematic. If too much work, a clean, robust alternative is to wire pin 5 (white wire) to 12 AWG wire, to fuse, to battery positive.
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