Yes i have searched and came across nothing that really helped.

the story begins with a couple of days during the last week, it seemd like a misfire at cold start up. it would sputter at any rpm only for a few seconds. i thought since i bought my 4runner in sept and didn't do any type of tune up, why not do it now. so i did, which consisted of plugs wires cap rotor. now it has seem to gotten worse. for example i would not feel that sputter until about 15 minutes of driving. at idle it fluctuates, lately no higher than 400 rpm. when i drove it today, no matter what rpm, she sputters likes hell (hence the title of this thread)

cel light says code 12,14 and 71

when i did do a search, i came across this one thread which had me excited because it almost seemed like my symptoms. well the thread ended with the owner needing a head gasket. it left off testing his coil.
i went to autozone, borrowed their specs and ohmeter and tested my coil. they were with in specs.

I BELIEVE IT IS MY EGR VALVE. i hooked a vacuum pump to the egr valve and no difference. i also hooked the pump to the egr looking thing that is next to the #5 cylinder, and heard an exhaust leak.

Basically if any one could assist me in finding what ever is causing this, and let me know if i am on the right path.

 

ah the 3slow well buddy i dont know anything about them BUT you did everything a tune up should need so now its worst? well did you check for a vac leak???? sounds like thats what it is and the egr and the exhaust yeah that what it does man EGR exhaust gas recurcler cant spell sorry but you get the point so i think that when you did the tune-down you upset a vac line start it and let it warm up then take your fingers and shake the vac lines if nothing then you might wanna sprayt them with something flamible and hear the motor die down or speed up how it helps a lil bit man sorry i know my 22res more but i think this is for anything the uses gas to move

 

hey man i appreciate your reply. i was thinking of a lose vacuum hose as well, my buddy knows this trick where he takes a tube and holds it to his ear and listens, according to him no vacuum leaks. i do have another buddy with an ultrasonic vacuum listening device. i will get ahold of that and have at her. the #5 cylinder (pass side close to firewall) is fun to get to. with all of the vacuum lines and such on a 3vz.

 

3.slow is an understatment your just have to hit the gas harder.


I RACE SCHOOL BUSES ALL DAY LONG.........AND LOSE!

 

lol wow!!!!!!!! funny though but yeah try sprying it with wd40 or brake clean youll find it but yeh thats all i can think off and some vac leaks you wont find untill the vac is just at the right mark then it opens so try it at idle and with a little rmps you never know man

 

12 is an rpm signal or knock control sensor, 14 is turbo charger or ignition signal and a 71 is EGR Valve. I get my codes from http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

 

yeah that rpm and knock will retard your timing and everything man get that fixed and then try it out

 

on the 95
12 is "No NE and G signal to ECU when cranking for 2 seconds"
14 is "No IGf signal to ECU for 6-8 events in succession"
71 relates to the either a low EGR gas temp sensor reading to the ECU or faulty EGR gas temp sensor circuit.

when you did the plugs and stuff, did you adjust the timing? if so, did you jumper the proper terminals in the diagnostic connector prior to adjusting the distributor?

 

i didnt touch the timing. i didnt feel that i need to. before all of this, she drove excellent. (for a 3.0 that is.) i'll try the wd40 around the vacuum lines. i hope its not the knock sensor. i had my valve cover gaskets done about 3 months ago. i am not up to buying another intake gasket!

 

use brake clean its alot cleaner

 

just make sure the brake cleaner does not contain methyl-ethyl ketone (a.k.a. MEK or butanone) as it will act as a paint remover and can affect plastic and rubber parts.

 

nice catch man nice!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

***Update. today i was messing around with it. i ran the engine and pull off one wire. truck then acted even worse. i repeated this 5 more times. so, that rules out wires and i think plugs. i should mention when i replaced the plugs, i put in the ngk platinums, which were already in there.
also i disconnected the egr valve and hooked up a vacuum pump to it again. it actually worked. the connection wasnt great before, so it wouldnt hold a vacuum in it. a zip tie temporaly fixed that. installed the egr valve and tested it again with the zip tie on the hose. with vacuum, the engine did indeed stall out.
while taking off the stock intake tube from the throttle body, on the bottom i noticed that the tube indeed was ripped along the bottom. also, while taking the breather hose from the valve cover to intake tube off, the engine stalled. I DO NOT HEAR ANY VACUUM LEAKS ANYWHERE. I HAVE NOT TRIED THE BRAKE CLEANER OR WD40 YET.

All in all, the egr is ruled out. what else could i look for.

 

'while taking off the stock intake tube from the throttle body, on the bottom i noticed that the tube indeed was ripped along the bottom'

? huh ?

so the tube was ripped? that would be classified as a vacuum leak to some people. to others it would be considered a leak in the intake ducting that would cause air to enter the system that wasn't being metered by the air-flow meter.

fix that 'rip' before you do anything else.

 

i had a friend of mine look at my truck while i was at work today, after a couple of hours of searching, he called me and told me he found the problem. after doing a compression check, all cylinders have around 180 psi. he then looked at the injectors. he ruled that the # 2 cylinder fuel injector wasnt operating. This is the one closest to radiator on driver side of vechile above distribtor. after i picked it up, i ammediatly called around the local parts stores.

napa= $201 new
$141 reman next day delivery
autozone= $129 new next day delivery
advance $177 new
$45+- reman
BENNET AUTO SUPPLY, (part store chain if florida)
new $155
reman, $43 + 12.50 core in stock (my price)
so i bought the reman injector.

HAS ANYBODY EVER BOUGHT A REMAN INJECTOR BEFORE?

i also looked at the injector and the connector that plugs into it was just sitting on top of it. it appears that the locking mechanism broke. i will make sure that that is replaced as well.

once installed, i keep you all updated...........THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

THIS FORUM IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!

 

dood make sure it isn't something simple like a faulty electrical connection to your injector, or even a damaged fuel line/oring/gasket on/into your injector.

My truck was sputtering very bad (just generally running rough; one of my mechanic friends told me it sounded like I had a dead cylinder, which he was probably right about, just dead from no fuel from a faulty injector) and when I did my hgs I sent my injectors away to get flow tested and cleaned. Long story short, they were in terrible condition before, and these guys made them like new, with documented before and after flow test results.

I think it was around 75 dollards (CAD) including shipping for all 6 injectors flow tested and refurbished (new orings, plenums, etc). In my opinion this could solve your problem, and even if they determine of your injectors IS fubard (which I highly doubt), it will save you from going through this again in a year when another injector craps out. good luck neway man