hahahah disagree these trucks throw out some torque and some of them guys make these trucks pretty sick but mainly on the 22-r's and re's sorry to go off topic i dont know anything about censors ( more into mechanical then technology :p ) sorry im no help

oh and sometimes my brake light stays on i never understood why lol. then one day it just stopped.

 

Yeah, thanks for nothing . So that's it. I got the tach wired in. I need to adjust it. I know I'm not really shifting at 4500 rpm's. It seems like everfything is working. The only bugs are that the BRAKE light stays on all the time, the volt gauge reads pretty high (just under 18) and when I turn on my blinker the speedo bounces off of zero once then goes back to normal. Help me work out these bugs. I'm almost there.

BTW, I switched the whole dask from the base model style to the regular style. Everything bolted up but if you do this you have to get the brackets that hold the stereo or the dash won't match them. I'll take some pictures of all this stuff later to help the next guy.

 

The earlier trucks 85-88 pickups 85-89 4Runners, had all of the wires in the harness that you needed to install an SR5 cluster. I did the swap in my 89 4Runner DLX with no issues, but I went from a manual to a manual. An auto is a different story. There are some pins in the connectors at the back of the cluster that you have to change the position they are in when switching from a manual to an auto cluster. That's probably why your brake light is on and your gauges seem to not working properly. Since you put in a V6 cluster your tach will be way off, but there should be a potentiometer (adjustable resistor) on the back circuitry to adjust it, but you need another test tachometer hooked up to adjust it against.
There are some threads on here about that and it seems that the 90's trucks did not always have all the wiring needed if you put a SR5 cluster in a non SR5 truck, some guys had to add the tach wire from the igniter it seems to be the luck of the draw, so you are fortunate that your truck has the necessary wiring to do this swap.
Unfortunately the 90-95 FSM(s) don't seem to differentiate between an auto and manual in the Body Electrical Combination meter section, unless you find someone who has fixed this problem for your year of truck, you are going to have to track down a Factory wiring diagram manual.
There is a 93 FSM for sale on Ebay right now, but there isn't an electrical wiring diagram manual. Here's the link:-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-Toyota-...rature&vxp=mtr

Try Amazon .com you might find an electrical diagram book there.

 

The complete 93 FSM is available online. I use it a lot. The brake light turned off after I replaced my front pads. It works like it should now. I did have to run a wire for the tach. It turned out to be pretty easy. I filled up and the fuel gauge went to full, so it looks like it's working. The volt meter reads a little high.

The check engine light came on today. It's the speedometer not sending signal to the PCM again even though it is working properly. It even seems to be calibrated according to GPS. I'll look back over your earlier post and see if I can track down the signal issue.

The most annoying thig right now is the way the speedometer bounces off zero (once) when I turn my blinker on. It returns right back to normal immediately even with the blinker still on. If I turn the blinker off for a minute it will do it again when I turn it back on but if I turn the blinker off and back on within a few seconds, the speedometer doesn't bounce again. It's like there is a charge building up that gets released through the speedometer when i hit the blinker. Any ideas on that?

 

Generally the kind of things that you are describing are caused by a bad dash ground. I think your 93 has a ground connection directly behind the cluster. You might try disconnecting, cleaning and reconnecting it and see if that solves your bouncing problems.

 

X2
Me and a buddy just did an entire wiring harness on a '64 Mg midget (cool little car) being a '64 it didnt have to much. but as i was finishing up the dash, we decided to test it, and a few things werent working properly. After hours i realized a ground wasnt attached, hooked it up and it all worked.

 

I will probably get in there after work today and look for that. Is it off of the cluster wiring harness? It's bolted to the body somewhere behind the dash? It seems likely to be my problem since I have changed the whole dash out. I suppose that could even be why the speedo signal isn't getting to the PCM.

 

Argh!!! I can't figure out what the hell the blinkers have to do with the speedo but I can't figure out why it bounces when I hit the blinker. I have the dash apart and I adjusted the tach. I have the rear wheels up so they can turn and i can get the speedo going. I tightened all the screws in the back of the cluster so they have good connections. I can't find any grounds in the harness behind the cluster. The flashers don't make it happen. I took a video but I can't post it until tomorrow. I'meager to get this truck going nice and dependable but I'm afraid my blinkers are going to fry my speedometer. I know this is a strange problem but I'm open to any ideas.

 

Sorry wrong year, your truck still has the ground I was thinking of under the left kick panel. It is ground point 1E and it is common to the Signal light flasher and the combination meter.

 

I think I found the ground you're talking about. I disconnected it and the gauges quit but the blinker kept blinking, so I don't think they're actually in common. I pulled a bunch of wires out that were for an alarm system or something. Whatever it was, it sucked. They just cut the insulation off of several wires to splice into them. Is that a normal practice? I'd never do that! Anyway, I messed with everything and I still have the same problem. I'll post a video tomorrow. I do want to say, I really appreciate all the help.

 

Splicing like that to add a wire to a circuit is better than cutting and using butt connectors, or using those stupid quick splices, you normally would strip some insulation off the wire, solder the new one to it, and use a shrinking wrap or something of the sort. Not sure if its the "approved" method, but i havent had any problems.

Edit: I belive in the process your supposed to open the center of the orginal wire, run the new one through twist it then solder. Sorry, I offer no help to your problem though!

 

That's cool. The wire's were going to an empty plug and it was very cluttered. I just pulled all the splices off and taped around the bare spots to prevent shorts. I think there are probably tie ins on the fuse box for everything you need so you don't have to disturb the stock wiring harness. I used one of those quick splices to tap into the wire off the coil. I didn't like doing it but I didn't know any other way. I may do it with solder and shrink wrap like you suggested but probably not until it gives me trouble.

 

Are there any clues I might be able to get with my multimeter? Any recommended tests? I may pull the fuse block next to check the connections at the back of it since that seems to be important to the systems I'm dealing with. I never did find a ground that affected the blinkers.

 

Here's a video of what it's doing. I have the wheels off the ground so I can get a speedo reading.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwX...05TYVV2UTY3X1E

 

So I gave up on this damn thing and put the dash back together. What the hell. So what if the speedo bounces when I hit the blinker. Then this morning when I'm driving to work, te speed isn't even working. Everything else was working just not the speedo. After about a mile and a half it just suddenly started working. I stopped at a store to grab some breakfast and when I left...same thing. I drove about a mile before the speedometer started working. Maybe this whole problem is with the cluster I got.

I'm going to try a different one this afternoon.

 

Finally! Time to end this thread. I went to the junkyard and exchanged my cluster for another one just like it (higher miles, unfortunately). Everything, including the speedometer, worked correctly. No bouncing when I turn on the blinker or anything. I'm afraid I may have meesed something up on the other one when I took it apart to adjust the tach. I have to do that on this one too as well as roll back the odometer so I hope I don't blow it this time.

Hadmatt54, thank you very much for passing along your knowledge of these systems. You're a real benefit to this community.

 

I don't know how much of a benefit I am.....but I'm glad I could help.