Speedometer BUZZING
#1
Speedometer BUZZING
On cold mornings, like the past three, the speedometer in my 4Runner will make a buzzing noise past like 25mph that sounds like a kitchen timer going really fast. It's quite disturbing. It only happens on pretty cold mornings. It drives me crazy, and I have NO idea what it could be. I tap the guages and they do nothing. I think it may read a little faster than normal too when it's buzzing. Any ideas?
#2
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it may need to be lubed up. There is some special grease (i want to say it is graphite) you can get to lube it up. It isnt too too bad.
Just take the cluster out (Just a few screws holding the dash pieces on) and unplug the cable.
then lube up the part of the cable that goes into the cluster and reassemble.
Just take the cluster out (Just a few screws holding the dash pieces on) and unplug the cable.
then lube up the part of the cable that goes into the cluster and reassemble.
#3
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graphite lube in an alcohol base carrier is all you need. do not use any oil or lithium base lube.
it comes in fairly small tubes, about the same size as a tube of crazy glue.
you'll want do shake the tube and let it drip onto the cable, and keep shaking the tube and use as much of the tube as you can. don't think that a few drops will solve the problem.
it comes in fairly small tubes, about the same size as a tube of crazy glue.
you'll want do shake the tube and let it drip onto the cable, and keep shaking the tube and use as much of the tube as you can. don't think that a few drops will solve the problem.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-23-2008 at 06:08 PM.
#5
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Oftentimes, simply adjusting the cable housing will eliminate a bind causing noise.
It only does it when it's cold, because.... That's Just The Way Things Are!
And, as someone pointed out, chain lube is superior lubricant compared to graphite powder.
And, in order to get the cluster to move forward enough to disconnect the cable, first disconnect the end at the tranny in order to slack up the cable/housing, which allows the cluster to move forward enough to get your hand behind it.
It only does it when it's cold, because.... That's Just The Way Things Are!
And, as someone pointed out, chain lube is superior lubricant compared to graphite powder.
And, in order to get the cluster to move forward enough to disconnect the cable, first disconnect the end at the tranny in order to slack up the cable/housing, which allows the cluster to move forward enough to get your hand behind it.
#6
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i just gotta say something!
and, i'm sorry, but, what is wrong, people? I mean, with, "...4x4 V6 5 Speed Swap SDORI 1.5" BJ Spacers~Downey 26MM TBs~Downey 3" Springs~Downey Shackles~PC ES3000s~PC ES2000 SS~Motive Gear 5.29s~Rear Detroit~Front Lock-Rite~Yakima Load Warrior~33x12.5R15 Yoko Geolander M/Ts~Cragar 15x8 Streetlocks~Cobra 18 WXSTII~3' Firestik II~Marlin Crawler rear~Custom Front~4X Innovations Sliders~WabFab Bikini Kit~Optima Yellow Top~SS IFS Truss..."
And, then, "...and I have NO idea what it could be..."! Frankly, I'm Flabbergasted!
And, then, "...and I have NO idea what it could be..."! Frankly, I'm Flabbergasted!
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#8
graphite lube in an alcohol base carrier is all you need. do not use any oil or lithium base lube.
it comes in fairly small tubes, about the same size as a tube of crazy glue.
you'll want do shake the tube and let it drip onto the cable, and keep shaking the tube and use as much of the tube as you can. don't think that a few drops will solve the problem.
it comes in fairly small tubes, about the same size as a tube of crazy glue.
you'll want do shake the tube and let it drip onto the cable, and keep shaking the tube and use as much of the tube as you can. don't think that a few drops will solve the problem.
Alright, I finally found a solution to my noisy speedo cable that works! It sounded like leaves rusting in the heater ducts and annoyed me immensely. Its been 3 months, and I haven't heard a sound, even now that its getting cold. After months of messing around with graphite spray, I found it would only last about a month. I hate taking apart the dash, so I started spraying the lube down the tranny-end of the cable. Undo the cable from the T case and pull up through the engine bay to that is coming out the firewall. There are about 3 fold-over tabs to hold the cable to the body to undo. Then I sprayed lube down the tube, this was as effective for me as taking apart the dash and spraying. Using graphite as I said, kept the cable quite for about a month or maybe 800 km, so I started searching for a better lube.
THe answer is "chain lube" for motor cycle or bike chains. Its been three months and its eerily silent for far.
Here's a pic I found on the web of chain lube:
Last edited by Matt16; 10-24-2008 at 12:51 AM.
#10
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I never suggested a graphite spray. I recommend the graphite in the tube. Take your time and let it drip down into the cable, and use the whole tube. I've never had a problem with it.
But whatever works I guess.
But whatever works I guess.
#11
The spray is the same stuff. I just sprayed some into an tiny bottle and dripped it in the cable end. Its graphite in an alcohol solution. Didn't work for me at all.
#12
I pulled the dash apart today and sprayed some dirt bike chain lube on it. Lots, actually. This afternoon it had gotten cold again I started to drive it and the buzzing was still there, but didn't start til about 45mph. Do I need to get the lube on the little bare metal part that slides in the guage cluster? Or the thicker part inside the plastic fitting that goes down in the rubber insulation? I only sprayed it on the latter.
#13
You need to grab the metal bit and pull it out a little. I found it easier to undo the cable from the transfer-case end. Undo the clips holding it to the body so it comes straight out of the firewall. Then stand on the bumper holding the cable up in the air and drip the lub down the cable. Let it sit for until the the lube has soaked down the cable and apply more. Do this for ten minutes and then attach it somehow to the hood and leave it to drain down for an hour or so.
#14
Alright. What part actually causes the buzzing? Is it the entire length of the line inside the cable rubbing? Or is it the bare metal piece that goes into the back of the guage?
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