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this is so depressing...

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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 12:08 PM
  #81  
runethechamp's Avatar
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From: Berkeley, CA
Originally Posted by Erik Beeman
There is nothing wrong with OEM, there is just other brands that offer a differnt product, and are just as quality.
You mean like bearings for your engine?
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 01:02 PM
  #82  
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From: Concord, CA
Originally Posted by runethechamp
You mean like bearings for your engine?
Ha ha. Ok, you got me there! I don't trust Rock!


But on another note, I'm running Clevite and have no problems, and so is a buddy with a 600hp VR6!
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #83  
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From: Vancouver, BC
i read on 4crawler's site
For ease of installation of the head, you should leave the rear-most pair of studs out and install them after the head is in place. The remaining studs perfectly locate the head gasket and ensure the head is properly aligned when you drop it in place
makes sense to me.....i'd just like to have the peace on mind that the head isnt going anywhere!
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #84  
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From: Denver, Colorado
Originally Posted by sas'd22re
93YotaGuy, my thoughts exactly. go big or go home...i'd rather spend an 'extra' $125ish and have the peace and mind that my head is torqued down good-an-tight. why did you go bolts and not studs? what are the benefits or either one?
I went with bolts cause I was in your shoes.

I couldn't decide on what was better and didn't really find anything to win me over one or the other so I talked to a friend and he told me to go with bolts. 2 years later they are still on the truck and I have never had a problem with them.

I would much rather spend my money on a quality product that I know is just as good as OEM if not better than something that I don't know anything about

I went with Clevite bearings too and I couldn't be happier!

I have another 22RE-T in my garage that I am just starting to tear apart and I will soon be spending my money to get the same parts I got for my 22RE

The extra money for a good product just gives me peace of mind.
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #85  
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From: North Dakota
Im getting annoying clicking/tapping sound from dash on drivers side.At first I thought it was motor but only does it at 40MPH to 75MPH and when I slow down to stop the noise does not slow down relative to my decreasing speed, and then is quiet at a dead stop.Im hoping its speedo cable.1990 SR5 V6 4Runner 5SPD 4WD.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 12:49 AM
  #86  
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Probably a speedo cable. Lube it with chain lube and only chain lube. Next time, please post in a thread on speedos. Quick question, why is youre handle Matt22RE904Runner when you have a V6?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:08 AM
  #87  
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From: San Diego
still no more leaks?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #88  
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From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by Matt22RE904Runner
Im getting annoying clicking/tapping sound from dash on drivers side.At first I thought it was motor but only does it at 40MPH to 75MPH and when I slow down to stop the noise does not slow down relative to my decreasing speed, and then is quiet at a dead stop.Im hoping its speedo cable.1990 SR5 V6 4Runner 5SPD 4WD.
random much?





Originally Posted by Outsane
still no more leaks?
so far so good!

I've been keeping a close eye on the coolant level, and I haven't been loosing any more!

the leak at the rear that I had ORIGONALLY though to be the rear main but I have now found out was the trans input seal has seemed to have slowed down too, but I'm still going to get in there and replace the seal some time or another, before it leaks onto and ruins my new clutch



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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 01:20 PM
  #89  
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From: San Diego
that is great news..
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 01:27 PM
  #90  
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From: Concord, CA
Shoot, I wish I could figure out my problem...
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:19 PM
  #91  
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From: Inverness,FL
glade to hear u fixed ur problem for the most part, i finally found a good machine shop to replace my broken valve guide and their relapeing/checking all the other valves and cleaning the head up for $90 bucks, i was expecting much more
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 02:43 PM
  #92  
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
let us know how your input shaft seal goes for you bleeder.

right after i put my new mc clutch in i developed what i thought was rear main leak, wasnt, turned out to be the input shaft seal and gasket to the retaining cover. even after replacing them though, i still get the oil leaking thiking my input shaft is worn or needing to be replaced.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 06:48 PM
  #93  
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From: North Dakota
My retarded mistake before i bought vehicle.I know its a V6 unfortunately i cant change my handle now.Your right about speedo cable,thanks.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #94  
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From: North Dakota
And why do i need to post on speedo cable thread? Is that some sort of indication that your brain cant switch gears? Or do you think Im 12? Or is it a rule about threads in general? Just asking.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #95  
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From: Bakersfield, CA
Originally Posted by Matt22RE904Runner
And why do i need to post on speedo cable thread? Is that some sort of indication that your brain cant switch gears? Or do you think Im 12? Or is it a rule about threads in general? Just asking.

It's just odd to jump on someone else's thread about a head gasket leak and post your problem with a clicking sound. If you had a head gasket leak it would be fine to post that here I think. I've made my share of mistakes on Yotatech too. Even got banned for a week once. The good thing is, you still got info to help with your problem.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #96  
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From: Lake City, Fl
if there were strict rules about random posting, the "oil cap removed" thread would have been shut down a LONG time ago, lmao

but yeah that was kinda outta no where, lol. every member on the forums has access to the "New Thread" button
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #97  
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From: Sacramento, CA
I know this is an old thread, and I don't want to resurrect it, but I have a question for guys who have had this leak issue before.

Does the leak only occur while its running, or does it leak when its cold as well?

Reason I ask, I just rebuilt my engine, got everything back together. In the process of filling it with water (water first to test), I started getting water dripping down the side of the block.

When I checked, it seemed to be almost the exact same place. I might just try re-torquing the heads, thinking that picking the entire engine / trans / T-Case up by the head may have stretched the bolts / gasket slightly, but I wanted to find out if you guys had similar issues.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 03:26 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by SandDamaged
Just a suggestion, maybe you should recheck the torque on those head bolts.
I used a "turbo" head gasket from Japanengines on my truck. It leaked a little at first, I retorqued the head bolts, and let it run (idled for about 2 hours) NO more leaks.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 03:58 AM
  #99  
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From: GORHAM,MAINE
hey bleeder sorry to here about your headgasket problem here in MAINE we usually use FELPRO gaskets.i have never had a problem with FELPRO.i wouldnt try another ROCK gasket.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #100  
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From: Lake City, Fl
I've had no more problems after the retorque

BUT, if it does start to leak again, I'm getting a new gasket directly from Toyota
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