this is so depressing...
Aug 11, 2009 | 04:54 PM
#42
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 982
Likes: 1
From: Tacoma, Washington
I have been watching your progress day by day and thought man he is so much better than me having no problems with his motor build sorry to hear your human.
OH man and that sucks now a rear main ARRGGHH I know the BS PO feeling. stick in there you'll git r dun.
ok hope this makes you feel better hearing my wooes.
I recently built own my motor too, I was having cam timing issues with my 20r/22r hybrid so I ordered up a LCE adjustable cam gear. NO problem right just slap it on. Well dum dum me advanced the timing around 40 degrees (4 teeth) and when I bump the key I heard a loud thwaack and the sound of a free spining motor that has no compression. The worst thing was I was going camping with my family for the 4th the next day and now I have to replace the valves and the HG before I can leave.
Well I stuck it out and got er fixed and now it runs great
On another note:
I have never had that problem with the rockgasket i ran one fine for 5 years and I am running one now I am currently past the 10,000mi mark but i torque to 70 in 4 phases and retorque now and then
valve lash for your engnbldr cam is .007(i) .009 (e) suggested minimum
also just a thought on the real seal mess have you check that half moon seal on the back of the head? i have problems with those and lay a small bead of right stuff gasket maker on the semi-circle part to ensure no leakage.
good luck to ya
OH man and that sucks now a rear main ARRGGHH I know the BS PO feeling. stick in there you'll git r dun.
ok hope this makes you feel better hearing my wooes.
I recently built own my motor too, I was having cam timing issues with my 20r/22r hybrid so I ordered up a LCE adjustable cam gear. NO problem right just slap it on. Well dum dum me advanced the timing around 40 degrees (4 teeth) and when I bump the key I heard a loud thwaack and the sound of a free spining motor that has no compression. The worst thing was I was going camping with my family for the 4th the next day and now I have to replace the valves and the HG before I can leave.
Well I stuck it out and got er fixed and now it runs great
On another note:
I have never had that problem with the rockgasket i ran one fine for 5 years and I am running one now I am currently past the 10,000mi mark but i torque to 70 in 4 phases and retorque now and then
valve lash for your engnbldr cam is .007(i) .009 (e) suggested minimum
also just a thought on the real seal mess have you check that half moon seal on the back of the head? i have problems with those and lay a small bead of right stuff gasket maker on the semi-circle part to ensure no leakage.
good luck to ya
Aug 11, 2009 | 08:42 PM
#45
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
My 2 cents!!
All,
Just my two cents. I successfully rebuilt a Toyota tercel engine (5EFE) in 2007. I used Topline parts, and the exact same thing happened to me. The 5EFE engine has TTY (torque to yield) head bolts, which mean that they stretch and can only be used once.
Another trick that my local parts store told me was to use sandpaper on the block and head surfaces to make sure they are free of any sort of debris. I then asked so I should use black wet dry sand paper, and was told no. The regular brown wood sandpaper on a large 8" x 4" hand sanding block. I was told to make sure the block is completely shining and almost mirror like. I also used a genuine Toyota head gasket as well as genuine Toyota head bolts. The car since has about 50,000 more miles since the rebuild, and the engine maintains coolant level.
After the (5EFE) rebuild, I did a head job on my 22RE. I was loosing coolant, and the truck overheated due to a bad thermostat. I had the head cleaned and had a valve job done. I used a genuine Toyota Head Gasket, did the sand paper trick, but used the same headbolts, because I read that the 22RE bolts are not TTY. Anyway, I did make sure that the head bolt holes were super clean, and made sure that I oiled the head bolt threads before I torqued them down. I ran the head down in two or three passes.
I also learned that the freaken head bolt holes need to be tapped, using the proper TAP size.
Finally, I did a lot of research, and found the following engine build, on a Honda CRX, engine. I used many of the techniques used in this page to help me with my engine builds.
http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/
I'm in no way affiliated with the above link, just letting you know, this website is good reading, and well documented, just like Bleeder's post.
Good luck to all, keep on wrenching.
Larrys93pickup
Just my two cents. I successfully rebuilt a Toyota tercel engine (5EFE) in 2007. I used Topline parts, and the exact same thing happened to me. The 5EFE engine has TTY (torque to yield) head bolts, which mean that they stretch and can only be used once.
Another trick that my local parts store told me was to use sandpaper on the block and head surfaces to make sure they are free of any sort of debris. I then asked so I should use black wet dry sand paper, and was told no. The regular brown wood sandpaper on a large 8" x 4" hand sanding block. I was told to make sure the block is completely shining and almost mirror like. I also used a genuine Toyota head gasket as well as genuine Toyota head bolts. The car since has about 50,000 more miles since the rebuild, and the engine maintains coolant level.
After the (5EFE) rebuild, I did a head job on my 22RE. I was loosing coolant, and the truck overheated due to a bad thermostat. I had the head cleaned and had a valve job done. I used a genuine Toyota Head Gasket, did the sand paper trick, but used the same headbolts, because I read that the 22RE bolts are not TTY. Anyway, I did make sure that the head bolt holes were super clean, and made sure that I oiled the head bolt threads before I torqued them down. I ran the head down in two or three passes.
I also learned that the freaken head bolt holes need to be tapped, using the proper TAP size.
Finally, I did a lot of research, and found the following engine build, on a Honda CRX, engine. I used many of the techniques used in this page to help me with my engine builds.
http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/
I'm in no way affiliated with the above link, just letting you know, this website is good reading, and well documented, just like Bleeder's post.
Good luck to all, keep on wrenching.
Larrys93pickup
Aug 12, 2009 | 12:49 AM
#46
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 1
From: Salem, OR
I have 22k miles on my Rock head gasket and I have a red engine.
I have no suggestions...although I feel your pain. Every time I work on something it goes completely wrong.
Good luck with the fix...and keep us updated
I have no suggestions...although I feel your pain. Every time I work on something it goes completely wrong.
Good luck with the fix...and keep us updated
Aug 12, 2009 | 07:29 AM
#49
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 152
Likes: 2
From: Pennsylvania
I blame it on "black market goods" being distributed worldwide by global mafia's...happens all the time and the counterfit goods are everywhere (prescription drugs, car parts, clothing, dvd's, etc.) with black market economics more stable than real world economoics it does not seem that far fetched...sounds crazy but, its a different world we live in now a days....
Aug 12, 2009 | 08:41 AM
#50
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: PNW
I don't know exactly how this happened?!?!
I got under the truck today as I rolled pass mile 504 pulling into my driveway, and started to change the oil when I noticed green fluid everywhere
so I just started by checking the overfill tank, and sure enough it was really close to being bone dry, but at least the radiator itself was full
so I got to looking around and saw that. I feared it was the head gasket right away, and after snapping that second pic and looking at it, it confirmed my fear
the head gasket is the "Rock" brand that comes in the engnbldr kit, which I wasn't too fond of to begin with, only because I had NEVER heard of them before
used new head bolts from engnbldr, and I only HOPE that I can re-use them with the head gasket job; please somebody clarify on that
I don't think the dowels are stopping the head from seating down all of the way, because I actually sat the head on the block without a gasket at all when the head arrived, just as a test fit, and it sat down perfectly flat against the block surface
the only reason this really has me so down is because my main focus this week was going to be finding an apartment or condo, cause I'm living with my sister right now unfortunately, and I have just got to get out of here quick before she throws me out, lol. I'm going to keep doing that this week though and keep an eye on the coolant level. the good thing is that it's not mixing with the oil or vice-versa, so it's just an external leak. I'm going to try and pick up an OEM TOYOTA head gasket this week, and might get it reinstalled this weekend, if not then the following weekend. Money's really tight right now, and I might have to put it off that extra week before I get the next paycheck
the truck's running great though, so that's a plus. I need to re-adjust the valves as it's still got a little ticking going on, and there's an annoying exhaust leak at the block off plates on the header because the welds around the header tubes is keeping the plates from laying flat on the header flange, but I guess I'll take care of that when I remove the header for the head gasket job
it just seems like it never changes for me... just as I get one MAJOR accomplishment done and I think all is well and everything's going just peachy, something has to jump up and kick me in the @$$
I got under the truck today as I rolled pass mile 504 pulling into my driveway, and started to change the oil when I noticed green fluid everywhere
so I just started by checking the overfill tank, and sure enough it was really close to being bone dry, but at least the radiator itself was full
so I got to looking around and saw that. I feared it was the head gasket right away, and after snapping that second pic and looking at it, it confirmed my fear
the head gasket is the "Rock" brand that comes in the engnbldr kit, which I wasn't too fond of to begin with, only because I had NEVER heard of them before
used new head bolts from engnbldr, and I only HOPE that I can re-use them with the head gasket job; please somebody clarify on that
I don't think the dowels are stopping the head from seating down all of the way, because I actually sat the head on the block without a gasket at all when the head arrived, just as a test fit, and it sat down perfectly flat against the block surface
the only reason this really has me so down is because my main focus this week was going to be finding an apartment or condo, cause I'm living with my sister right now unfortunately, and I have just got to get out of here quick before she throws me out, lol. I'm going to keep doing that this week though and keep an eye on the coolant level. the good thing is that it's not mixing with the oil or vice-versa, so it's just an external leak. I'm going to try and pick up an OEM TOYOTA head gasket this week, and might get it reinstalled this weekend, if not then the following weekend. Money's really tight right now, and I might have to put it off that extra week before I get the next paycheck
the truck's running great though, so that's a plus. I need to re-adjust the valves as it's still got a little ticking going on, and there's an annoying exhaust leak at the block off plates on the header because the welds around the header tubes is keeping the plates from laying flat on the header flange, but I guess I'll take care of that when I remove the header for the head gasket job
it just seems like it never changes for me... just as I get one MAJOR accomplishment done and I think all is well and everything's going just peachy, something has to jump up and kick me in the @$$
Aug 12, 2009 | 08:47 AM
#51
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 1
From: Salem, OR
to the toyota gods. i just hope the rest goes by smooth. im sure you'll get it fix'd and prob even cheaper
Aug 12, 2009 | 02:50 PM
#53
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
Likes: 33
From: Lake City, Fl
well, after the retorque yesterday, I can safely say that I've either reeeaaally slowed down the leak, or stopped it all together!
at least at a glance, it doesn't look like any fresh fluid has came out in the caurse of a day, and so far that's been about 2.5 hours of run time (a little idling, a little 65mph cruising, a little standing hard on the throttle pulling out in front of traffic and using the amazing low-end torque this head and cam make
)
We'll have to see how this works out; I might just get lucky!
Oh and the rear-main leak, well I think it's ACTUALLY the trans input seal now, lmao. Still a PITA cause I gotta slide the tranny back though... but at least I wouldn't have to remove the clutch and flywheel
We'll see, I'll keep a close eye on both the engine oil and trans fluid levels
at least at a glance, it doesn't look like any fresh fluid has came out in the caurse of a day, and so far that's been about 2.5 hours of run time (a little idling, a little 65mph cruising, a little standing hard on the throttle pulling out in front of traffic and using the amazing low-end torque this head and cam make
)We'll have to see how this works out; I might just get lucky!
Oh and the rear-main leak, well I think it's ACTUALLY the trans input seal now, lmao. Still a PITA cause I gotta slide the tranny back though... but at least I wouldn't have to remove the clutch and flywheel
We'll see, I'll keep a close eye on both the engine oil and trans fluid levels
Aug 12, 2009 | 03:15 PM
#55
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
im going to be redoing my head gasket as well. mine went after 6000kms. is oem the best way to go? i have a buddy that works at toyota so he'll be able to get it for cost. when the motor was built we just used the one that came in the kit, can't remember which brand it was, but ill know in a few days when i tear it down. im also going to use arp head bolts, just to be sure
when the motor was built we just used the one that came in the kit, can't remember which brand it was, but ill know in a few days when i tear it down. im also going to use arp head bolts, just to be sure
Last edited by sas'd22re; Aug 12, 2009 at 05:56 PM.
Aug 12, 2009 | 03:25 PM
#56
my engnbldr stuff (head gasket, head bolts, cam, timing kit) arrived today and is sitting in the garage waiting to go to the shop to be put on my truck. i hope nothing goes wrong because everyone i have talked to told me to go buy a quality kit like felpro. i told them no because i had seen way to many bad things about them on here and a few other sites and i said i was going with the engnbldr stuff. they all said good luck or gave me funny looks, even he gut putting the engine back together.
Aug 12, 2009 | 03:35 PM
#57
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
Likes: 33
From: Lake City, Fl
well guys I'm not trying to make engnbldr look bad by all means, the head and cam are AWESOME so far, but then again those are not ROCK prducts either, at least I don't think so
but, I am kind of worried about my ROCK pistons now
it's not engnbldr's fault AT ALL. Ted there is a good guy, but that doesn't say a word for any products he buys and then retails
by all means, the head and cam are AWESOME so far, but then again those are not ROCK prducts either, at least I don't think sobut, I am kind of worried about my ROCK pistons now
it's not engnbldr's fault AT ALL. Ted there is a good guy, but that doesn't say a word for any products he buys and then retails
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Aug 12, 2009 at 03:37 PM.
Aug 12, 2009 | 03:37 PM
#58
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 433
Likes: 1
From: Concord, CA
I've had no problems so far, and am at 400 miles. I have no complaints about any parts, other than my low end bearings. Two sets were bad, motor was locking up when torqued. Orded a set of Clevite bearings, installed, torqued, and motor spun like butter. Head is awesome, cam is awesome too, just not what I wanted.
On my 88 I'm running a Kragen head gasket. It's been on 15K miles, no problems. This Rock head gasket looks 100X's nicer, so I have no doubt in it. The question is on quality, will it hold up when I boost 15psi to it?!
On my 88 I'm running a Kragen head gasket. It's been on 15K miles, no problems. This Rock head gasket looks 100X's nicer, so I have no doubt in it. The question is on quality, will it hold up when I boost 15psi to it?!
Aug 12, 2009 | 03:48 PM
#60
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,248
Likes: 33
From: Lake City, Fl
