Snapped exhaust Header Bolts
12-28-2006, 09:00 PM
#1
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Location: Scottsdale,Arizona
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Snapped exhaust Header Bolts
Okay guys i decided to replace my exhaust gasket and my flange gaskets. They needed to be replaced. So i took of the 3 flange gasket bolts, 1 of them snapped and the remains are in the bottom of the header. When removing the exhaust manifold from the head, another 2 rusty bolts snapped. now i was pissed.
when i removed it i was happy because the 2 that snapped was not the ones on the head it self. these were attached to the header. So i went to Checkers, and bough some easy outs, Did what the instructions said to do and 3 of the easy outs broke. Now i was ready to do some damage but to what? beat the truck up ? so i took a walk to calm down and decided i was going to post this and see what you guys say. Now my truck sounds like a big @$$ diesel. I can now say I TURN HEADS.
SO 3 words.....HELP ME PLEASE.
thanks guys
Myron
when i removed it i was happy because the 2 that snapped was not the ones on the head it self. these were attached to the header. So i went to Checkers, and bough some easy outs, Did what the instructions said to do and 3 of the easy outs broke. Now i was ready to do some damage but to what? beat the truck up ? so i took a walk to calm down and decided i was going to post this and see what you guys say. Now my truck sounds like a big @$$ diesel. I can now say I TURN HEADS.
SO 3 words.....HELP ME PLEASE.
thanks guys
Myron
12-29-2006, 07:08 AM
#3
Contributing Member
Ok here's the trick to using easy-outs (sorry its too late for you but maybe others will learn) I learned this the easy way, by reading EB's posts.
You need to start the drill in the very center of the broken bolt or stud, this is very important because you are going to keep stepping up in drill bits until you have removed almost all of the old bolt or stud and you don't want to damage the threads in the hole. Then only after drilling out most of the broken bolt or stud use the biggest easy out you can fit in the hole. If you just drill a small hole you will be using a small easyout that will break very easy and then you are stuck drilling out the broken easyout which is even harder to drill out.
Oh one more tip, don't run your engine without the exhaust manifold on because you can easily warp a valve.
You need to start the drill in the very center of the broken bolt or stud, this is very important because you are going to keep stepping up in drill bits until you have removed almost all of the old bolt or stud and you don't want to damage the threads in the hole. Then only after drilling out most of the broken bolt or stud use the biggest easy out you can fit in the hole. If you just drill a small hole you will be using a small easyout that will break very easy and then you are stuck drilling out the broken easyout which is even harder to drill out.
Oh one more tip, don't run your engine without the exhaust manifold on because you can easily warp a valve.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-29-2006 at 07:22 AM.
12-29-2006, 07:00 PM
#4
Registered User
Go to Sears and get this set. You drill the hole in reverse, without letting the threaded cone sleave hitting. Take the bit out of the drill, screw the threaded cone done in the hole and turn it out with the nut made on the shank. These things work. Talking about the ones across the top of the case.
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