j2the-e

An advance timing light has a button or dial that shows timing advance. Turn the knob to whatever number and the light will flash the zero mark. For instance, set the light to 22° and when the timing is at 22° the crank pulley mark will line up with 0.
I recently worked on a 3.0 with a faulty tps. Timing showed like 28° or something at idle. If you were actually at 32° base timing, you would be pinging like crazy. Short the diag connector and check for codes. Also check to see if the timing changes when you short the connector(hook up the light, and while watching the mark, pull the jumper wire out and see if the timing mark moves). If it doesn't, your computer isn't seeing the idle signal from the tps. Either faulty, misadjusted, or filthy throttle body hanging the butterfly open.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, j2the-e, Eton and guys.

Exactly. She runs as strong and smooth as you'd expect a 22R-E to, I get 20/22 MPG, I've driven her to Shasta and back to SD, To Big Sur and back to SD with no issues.

No change in idle when diag connector is jumped. (mentioned in 4crawler site, too)

Yes, will check that tomorrow. I'm also trying to find which section of FSM TPS is covered, but haven't found it yet. Could anyone pls point it out? (i.e., EC for Emission control, FI for Fuel system, etc)

Update:
Found relevant write-ups on TPS adjustment, Throttle body maintenance and Checks. Cleaning throttle body as you guys suggest is surely a sensible preventive maintenance activity. After all, this is a 27-YO truck and we do not know when throttle body was last cleaned.

Thanks a lot to the following for sharing their knowledge:
LCE's
4Crawler's

P.S. Thanks, Chefyota, for noticing the oil on top of my cylinder head cover; cover nuts were very loose! Fixed that yesterday. Can't find any torque spec for nuts (I guess because these have rubber-loaded washers), so I just made them hand-tight.

RAD4Runner

Hi guys,
Update:
Throttle feels sticking so I cleaned the butterfly valve, the walls around it and got rid of that sticking.
Shorted the connector encircled in light blue on 4Crawler site here.



Got CEL. I have no code reader but I count 11 flashes. Then pause, then 11 flashes...

Now searching for what that means. Hope someone can post it here if you know.

TIA

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

Blind an

Just go to search browser type in check engine light codes for OBD1.
You'll see code 11 you have Momentarily power to your ECU you mite want to check out your throttle position sensor. Check the Connection.

Blind an

Wow low Compression on 1&3 well it all go's well for you.
Rings and head if your that far why not a complete rebuild that would be fun.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Phil.
11 flashes points to TPS etc.

I've never had a CEL until I shorted out those terminal.
Isn't shorting out the terminals necessary to set timing, and a CEL is a normal outcome of that? OR am I wrong, and I should not get a CEL/ code when I short out the terminals to check timing?
OR do you think there was already an error cord and shorting the terminals is how one would force ECU to display the code?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Ray,

you do need to short the terminal every time you set timing.

I don't know if you can have a fault code without it flashing on the dashboard firstso it's hard to tell if your code was a result of shorting the terminal or if it was already there all along

j2the-e

Code 11 is for no idle signal from the tps. The ecu won't show a check engine light for this fault because it has no way to determine if there is a problem. It just thinks you are holding the throttle open. Until you install the jumper wire. fix your TPS and you will be able to set base timing. And you must always install the jumper to properly set the timing.

RAD4Runner

So shorting the pins makes sure that ECU sees TPS at idle position when setting timing?
11 flashes code was caused by shorting the pins so that's normal?
Tnx, guys

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Ray, i'd do this in this order:
1) remove throttle body and adjust tps to spec (4crawler has an article)
2) short diag port and set timing

You need throttle plate adjusted to spec to properly adjust tps, and then tps working to set timing (I think)

RAD4Runner

Thanks, Phil and guys.
To bad I'm running out of time 'cause smog cert is due on the 28th. So busy at the office right now so might just have to take it to a trusted shop to have this looked at.

Lesson learned: get smog check done at least a month before due date. (Smog check station also gives me 30 days to have problem done, then I'll just have to pay them $10 for cert when I come back.

etont

Fun except spending the $ on it isnt, esp for a runner I picked up for $3k. I found a guy who is recommended by the guys on here Tim and CT Engineering, he wants $800 to do the head, and in a worst case scenario, $2700 for a full rebuild. Seems like a good deal to me considering rebuilt 22re's seem to be 2200-2500+.

etont

It was low on 3 and 2, not 1 and 3. =) 87psi and 110psi. Both low. Now im thinking new pistons, rings, and new head.

Thoughts? Would that low compression cause my HC and CO to be high?

Thanks,
Eton

Blind an

Wow $2700 dollar for a 22re. What in that price deal? Even though I still trust a rebuild over a remanufactured or a used engine

j2the-e

It can. If the compression is low enough to cause the fuel to not burn completely. Gauges all vary as well, so without knowing what the "good" cylinders tested, I don't have a great idea of how low your compression is. However, with 2 adjacent cylinders being low, I might suspect a head gasket issue. Did they ever perform a leak down test? I know you said compression came back up with a wet test, but it always comes up with a wet test. Leak down is the best way to know for sure where the problem lies. It could also be a weak spark, which allows the unburned fuel to wash the cylinder walls. Or any number of other issues

etont

They did do a leak down test, they told me they were fairly sure it was the valves not ring/pistons. But as always, couldnt tell me for sure until they pulled the head.

Im thinking I will buy a new head from engbldr and replace the head myself, but before I bolt on the new one, snap some pictures of the pistons to see if anyone can tell if they need to be done as well.

On that note, I have never done a head gasket, seems fairly simple. I heard a trick to put the gasket on the block, then gasket sealer on the head for a good dependable seal... Any thoughts?

etont

2700 being low or high? =) It would be a, drop my car off, they pull the motor do all the work. Machine the block, crank, etc all seals, new head, etc. A true re-build.