Blind an

The smog test that he bailed on are at Looking at the test result That he failed on Thursday require RPMs for high Test. They were The same test reading that my Toyota failed on as well. Which I do not onlyownanymore I gave to my sister Wish it was an 88 Toyota four Runner 22r. I've also had read everybody's good opinion on what it could be wrong with the truck failing smog. And may all could be a possible cause. And running 91 octane could affect the test. Dirty injector can also affect the test. Defective O2 sensor can also affect the test. New catalytic converter can also affect a test. Also a plug EGR tube can also make the vehicle run a little rich. The only reason why I'm given all these information is because I've been there. My Toyota that I had to smog in order to change registrations to my sister had 247,000 miles on it. And it failed the test with the same test result. And all I did to get it to pass the test with the clean result. Is to put new NGK plugs in , Put a new Light vehicle weight catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor which by the way it cost me about 150 bucks. Amy only reason why I had to do all of these tasks because I loaned the truck to my sister and she ran out of gas and she put two cycle fuel for boat and the truck. Just so she can bring the truck back to me. There is a good laugh for everyone😞

So the good thing to know is when you install the new catalytic converter is always best to get it really hot before test.
Also when you install the new OG sensor you still should check the ohms reading because it could be defective as well.
I've gotten two defective O2 sensors from a friendly auto parts And went to Napa and got a good one.
I've also found getting the 2 o2 sensors from the friendly auto parts store the connectors are the same but the 88 Toyota has a four wire connector with four wires and from the friendly auto parts store they have a four wire connectors with two or three wires.

So I hope these Would help
Testicle to censor at normal operating temperature
And get that catalytic converter really hot before the test. If you have a mountain really close with the highway going over it climate before the test. If you're flatlanders drive it in Logan or before the test. And if you live in California if you fail the test too many times last chance at the test is the gold state certified smog test.

j2the-e

I'm sorry, I can barely read your post. Something about jumping off of the smog test and touching your balls to the cat?
You're basically listing everything that can cause a smog failure. Thats not really any help.
OP: Proceed with your leak-down test and let us know how it goes.

Gamefreakgc

From the FSM:

Positive crankcase ventilation - PCV - Reduces blow–by gas (HC)
Evaporative emission control - EVAP - Reduces evaporative HC
Exhaust gas recirculation - EGR - Reduces NOx
Pulsed secondary air injection - PAIR - Reduces HC and CO
Three–way catalytic converter - TWC - Reduces HC, CO and NOx
Multiport fuel injection* - MFI - Regulates all engine conditions for reduction of
exhaust emissions.

From the list, I'd say check your PCV valve, EVAP system and your PAIR valve. Your cat, EGR and MFI system are probably fine, due to the low NOx reading (others pointed this out as well).

Blind an

Oops. My bad on some types error.
That's what I get for not checking out for the dictation And trusting in it.

Blind an

I've pass the smug the test and the 88 4runner is gone and still running strong.
I still see it every now and then.
Now I have a issues with a 89 Toyota p-up 4x4 3.0
Not getting any spark

j2the-e

I thought it was pretty funny! I see some bizarre stuff when I use voice texting on my phone

Blind an

Yeah it's a real pain in the neck. When you think It would be quicker to send a message without typing. But then you have to stop Lookback read over correct The error. But I don't think I'll stop using it.

etont

Thanks guys. The mechanic has had the car for 3 days now... good thing he only quoted me $100 for diagnostics! haha... Low compression on a CT on #1 and #3 I dont have the full test results from the CT or the Leak down test yet. They also checked the injectors, all passed, good spray on all.

They were going to try to put some oil? in the plug holes in hopes of putting a bandaid on leaky compression but regardless, I think I am looking at a min of new heads, probably new rings as well.

Thanks,
Eton

RAD4Runner

Rather than start another thread, I hope it's OK to post here...

Ruby Tuesday failed smog for Timing
Tech says it's at 32°B, when spec is 5° B +/-3

Do you guys think it just requires adjusting timing or more complicated than that?

If I were to adjust timing, since I do not have an SR5 cluster, I would like to buy a simple but robust tachometer that I can use for diagnostic and leave it on dash for daily driving. Do you have recommendation on what to use? Analog is preferred.

TIA

j2the-e

3 days and no answers? I would go get my truck back. Oil in the cylinders is not a band aid. Its a way to check if the rings are not sealing. As soon as the oil is burned away, compression will drop back down. I'm still curious how low the compression is. And again, first thing I would check is valve clearance. Have they done that yet? Don't be afraid to ask them if they checked it.

Is there a code for TPS sensor? If there is no IDL signal from TPS to the ecu, timing will be advanced at idle. If you set it to 5 it will be a dog. Does the timing change when you install the jumper wire? If not, check the TPS

etont

When I had to do my timing I was at 15BTDC. Once I adjusted it back to 5 like it should, I had to re-adjust the Idle control valve. Got it within specks with no Tach... but that may have been lucky. =)


Did my timing with a normal timing light. Positive and Neg to the battery, and a clip that goes over wire #1. Short the smaller plug on the right side of your truck with a paper clip, this will cause the check eng light to flash, then loosen your distributor clamp (I think its a 11mm) then turn the distributor to advance/retard the timing.

Its super easy... should only take 10min or so. =)

*before you do the timing, clean off the degree maker on the case so its easy to see and mark the notch on the crank pulley with whiteout or something so its easy to see with the flashing light.

-Eton

etont

The PAIR on my car is blocked off at the exhaust header with plates... is a 86' 22re supposed to have PAIR?

etont

[QUOTE=j2the-e;52099299]3 days and no answers? I would go get my truck back. Oil in the cylinders is not a band aid. Its a way to check if the rings are not sealing. As soon as the oil is burned away, compression will drop back down. I'm still curious how low the compression is. And again, first thing I would check is valve clearance. Have they done that yet? Don't be afraid to ask them if they checked it.[quote]

They did check the valves they were ok. Just talked to them, when they put the oil in, compression came back up, then dropped. That means bad rings as well correct?

Thanks,

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi Ray - sounds like a great Yellowstone trip - my in laws were up there a few weeks ago too!

32* sounds crazy off...I think the marker on the oil pump indicator only goes to like....12* BTDC?? Not sure how anyone could tell you were 32* BTDC.

But like EtonT mentioned above, setting timing is easy:
- Warm up truck
-On pass side there is a smaller black diagnostic port next to the fuse box - use a paper clip or bare wire to short terminals T and E1 - the idle should drop...if it doesn't your TPS is likley not working or calibrated wrong.



- Once that port is jumped (leave it that way), hook up your timing gun:
--positive to positive battery terminal
--negative to negative battery terminal
--clamp around the #1 spark plug wire - as close to the plug as possible
--Then, pull the trigger and point to the top of the crank pulley and look for the notch on the pulley to illuminate with each stobe (spark)....where it matches up with the degree indicator on the oil pump will tell you where your timing currently sits.

-Adjust the distributor by loosening (13mm I think) the bolt and rotating it....the illuminate timing mark will move loser or further away from the indicator on the oil pump.

- set to 5* and tighten distributor adjustent nut
- remove timing gun clamps
- remove jumper

That should do it.

Gamefreakgc

Well there you go. That's why you're not passing smog. That's why your HC and CO are too high.

Everyone talks about deleting the PAIR and EGR but don't always think about the fact that you need it to pass smog. Looks like the previous owner took it off and either never smogged it, or it crossed states and then looked to sell it.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi Ray - sounds like a great Yellowstone trip - my in laws were up there a few weeks ago too!
32* sounds crazy off...I think the marker on the oil pump indicator only goes to like....12* BTDC?? Not sure how anyone could tell you were 32* BTDC.

But like EtonT mentioned above, setting timing is easy:
- Warm up truck
-On pass side there is a smaller black diagnostic port next to the fuse box - use a paper clip or bare wire to short terminals T and E1 - the idle should drop...if it doesn't your TPS is likley not working or calibrated wrong.

- Once that port is jumped (leave it that way), hook up your timing gun:
--positive to positive battery terminal
--negative to negative battery terminal
--clamp around the #1 spark plug wire - as close to the plug as possible
--Then, pull the trigger and point to the top of the crank pulley and look for the notch on the pulley to illuminate with each stobe (spark)....where it matches up with the degree indicator on the oil pump will tell you where your timing currently sits.


-Adjust the distributor by loosening (13mm I think) the bolt and rotating it....the illuminate timing mark will move loser or further away from the indicator on the oil pump.
- set to 5* and tighten distributor adjustent nut
- remove timing gun clamps
- remove jumper
That should do it.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Ray, I used to be anti EGR, I still dont like all of the carbon that they create in a motor, but on the 22r series it really isnt to bad to clean up. How many motors have 2-300 thousand miles on them and still going and not been tore into?

I dont have to worry about smog checks, but I have never personally had to replace an EGR. They just need a good cleaning, I have always gotten rid of the CEL just by cleaning them. You will fail smog without it and not just the lack of not having it. It does effect the sniff test. I can look thru one of my builds and show where the carbon can get stuck.

Do you have a fresh tune up? I buy a foot or so of the correct size of vacuum line and replace all of it. Give the EGR a good cleaning, pull the Plenum and seperate TPS assembly from the Plenum and clean all of the ports, hoses and connection of carbon. I take the plenum down to the carwash and give it a good washing. I have used oven cleaner to help break up the carbon inside.

I do the Seafoam treatment once a year so before your test, I would do it a day or so to help clean the inside of the motor out and give it a good running to get it bac to normal.

Seems like Mark failed partially due to his header. I could see where that could be a problem. I personally dont care for the headers. How is your O2 sensor? On an 86, they arent to bad or costly to replace. At the very least pull it and give it a good scrubbing.

j2the-e

Pair valve is not needed to pass smog readings. It may fail a visual if they are looking for it. The pair system only operates when the engine is cold, and during deceleration. It looks like this test was performed at a constant speed, so pair valve being removed will have no effect at all.

I still want to know, what are your compression numbers?

etont

I want to know my compression numbers too... the mechanic is dragging, I don't really care since I dont drive the car and hes agreed to charge a flat $100 for all their labor/etc. But some numbers would be nice. Hopefully I will know on Monday.

RAD4Runner

Thanks a lot, guys! No code that I know of. However, tech mentioned something about a sensor so possibly the TPS.

Phil,,

Yeah, 32°... Maybe he read the timing angle from diagnostic equipment?
Thanks for the pics. My year has a round connector that needs to to be jumped.

Terry,
I'll focus on the timing first 'cause that's the only issue the tech mentioned. I wont be completely accurate, though unless I have a tach.