Does anyone know the name or part # for the small coolant hose at the back of a 3.0? It looks like a cane and goes from the manifold to a tube. As you can see from the picture mine is starting to leak. Thanks.

James Dean

 

water by-pass hose

i think thats what it is called, i have little knowledge of the 3.0

 

It's only 5/16" or 3/8" hose.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-hose-120129/

does this thread help?

 

Just take it off and go match it to something at the local auto parts place. Nothing to it.

 

I had to replace that hose not to long ago and it was a PITA. I did find though that if you cut the new hose a little longer it is much easier to install.

 

Its called the $0.50 - $50.00 hose. Cost $0.50 and takes $50.00 in labor to have it put on.

Pack a lunch to change it. As suggested, the replacement can be hose off a spool from your local parts house. The longer the easier to work with and keeps the bend large.

Been there, done that.....

 

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. It's the #5 by-pass hose. I guess I'll get it from the dealer, none of the aftermarkets have it. And I don't like tight bending straight hose. I'm afraid of it kinking and causing problems.

 

Thats why you buy a longer piece of it so the bend is higher up. i will bet $100 that the dealer doesnr have it or they will rape for the small part. just the diameter and go buy 1' of it at the autoparts store

 

Does your 4Runner have rear heat? That could have something to do with it.

 

Make sure you don't put on something that will kink. That hose allows coolant to flow out of the sensor housing and if it becomes restricted the coolant in the housing will not reach the same temperature as the engine and will cause the ECM to "think" the engine is running cooler than it actually is.

 

That part isn't for the rear heat. My pickup has it as well, and I just installed it last night. Little advice.....be careful of your TVV valve. When I was putting mine together I broke the second little plastic nipple off. They are surprisingly brittle. At least I had already planned on changing mine and had the new one ready to go on. Also, use some silicone spray on the hose.....makes it just slip on.

Jason

 

I went to see Reggie at Desert Toyota and to my surprise they had one in stock and it was only $10.49. Part # 16267-65011. I'll change it this weekend and find out how tough it will be. By the way Toyota calls it the #3 hose, not 5.

 

This is truth. And I changed my post in the other thread to reflect that. My bad.

Now it looks like this:

 

For what its worth i picked up my replacement at my local Napa. It was a form fitted hose, not off a reel.

 

Is that the hose that goes to the sensor that allows the auto tranny to shift into OD?

 

That hose is not so bad to replace with a pair of long needle nose pliers with a 45* angled head. Some of those pinch type hose clamps (don't know what else to call 'em...the OEM type in your pic) and it's even easier. And definitely put a tad of lube on the connections or you'll be an unhappy camper.

 

I posted about it. Part number is in the post. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f16/...-intake-68448/
I didn't take off the intake either. If you have a long 1/4 extension with a socket you can tighten up the hose clamps by cramming your hands in there.

James

 

First off, thanks to everyone that gave me info.

As most with the 3.0 V6, have had the small cane shaped by-pass hose at the rear of the motor go bad or will. This is mostly caused by the hi heat due to the exhaust cross-over tube directly below. Some after market suppliers may carry this pre-curved hose, but you may find you can only get it from the dealer in your area. It is part #16267-65011 and list for around $10. Usually the 2 port thermal switch and vacuum lines next to it are dried out and corroded too. If you have to replace the by-pass hose you will probably have to change the thermal switch and lines as well.

First off you will need a pair of long needle nose pliers. Remove the screw that holds the brake booster vacuum line to the firewall and carefully rotate hose forward. This will give you more viewing and working room. Use needle nose pliers to remove spring clamps from hose. You may need to cut hose at bases to release. Be careful of the port switch. The ports are plastic and will probably break if they already aren't. Insert the clamps on the new hose with the handles facing the passenger side and slightly to the rear. Lube the inside of the hose with a silicon or vegetable oil to make for an easier slide. Do Not use petroleum base oil. Re-install hose and slide clamps into place. Re-install brake booster hose bolt and check your fluid level.







For more info see jamesdeancreations.com

 

Hows it going, so I just successfully changed the #3 hose on my runner however in the process I broke the two plastic hose connectors that are right next to it. Do you know what im talking about and if so what the part is called and where I could get one. Thank you for your time...