sleeping platform finished! many pix
Apr 16, 2006 | 11:01 PM
#24
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From: Dolores, CO
ply: $22 a sheet x 3 for $66
1x2 is cheap -- i think $2, but hard to find a clear and straight one
4" brackets 10 pkgs @ 2.39/pr = $24ish for 20
bolts, nuts and screws were in the $20 range, and i have leftovers
carpet $4.27/linear foot, so around $21 since it's 6 wide cut to 5 long
spring catches are a buck each, so $10
recessed door rings are $5 each, ouch, but they look great
12v sockets were $5.75 each, so $12ish
paint and polyurethane came to about $6
the 3m spray adhesive is $13, and i have lots left over for future projects
plastic tubs $6 each, so $12
i bought a couple handfuls of tools that can't be directly listed as consumed in this project, so i won't count them. i am also not counting the batteries, cable kits, hold-down, or the replacement of a couple bits i inadvertently killed by chance encounters with hidden drywall screws.
that makes the materials cost about $210. i'll throw another $260 at a memory-foam mattress and cover, too. i know this is a chunk of change, and i could have done it all for a lot less, but i wanted to do it right, such that the net is a tool that will both stand up to a lot of use and still look decent for a number of years. i didn't want it to look (or function) like an afterthought. it will directly pay for itself twice over, in saved hotel bills on a trip this fall, so it's not sunk funds by any stretch.
1x2 is cheap -- i think $2, but hard to find a clear and straight one
4" brackets 10 pkgs @ 2.39/pr = $24ish for 20
bolts, nuts and screws were in the $20 range, and i have leftovers
carpet $4.27/linear foot, so around $21 since it's 6 wide cut to 5 long
spring catches are a buck each, so $10
recessed door rings are $5 each, ouch, but they look great
12v sockets were $5.75 each, so $12ish
paint and polyurethane came to about $6
the 3m spray adhesive is $13, and i have lots left over for future projects
plastic tubs $6 each, so $12
i bought a couple handfuls of tools that can't be directly listed as consumed in this project, so i won't count them. i am also not counting the batteries, cable kits, hold-down, or the replacement of a couple bits i inadvertently killed by chance encounters with hidden drywall screws.
that makes the materials cost about $210. i'll throw another $260 at a memory-foam mattress and cover, too. i know this is a chunk of change, and i could have done it all for a lot less, but i wanted to do it right, such that the net is a tool that will both stand up to a lot of use and still look decent for a number of years. i didn't want it to look (or function) like an afterthought. it will directly pay for itself twice over, in saved hotel bills on a trip this fall, so it's not sunk funds by any stretch.
Last edited by photoleif; Apr 16, 2006 at 11:16 PM. Reason: darn typos
Apr 19, 2006 | 07:28 PM
#27
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From: Dolores, CO
i have it bolted to the bed in front and rear, total of four holes. you can see one of the 4" brackets in the bed in the first three pix, with #2 probably the clearest illustration. that mount was easy because i had no obstructions -- just lowered the spare, reached and grunted a bit, and it was in. the other mount, which is in the same place but far fore, wasn't too pretty. turns out i measured about 1/2" wrong and the holes went in right next to the transverse support strap, so i had to put the bolts in at a bit of an angle to avoid that. grrr. it's plenty tight with those two -- not going anywhere at all. i ought to fill the holes with silicone, but at least initially i've got garden-hose gaskets compressed against the holes with the washers, then a lock-washer, then the nut. it's not beautiful but it'll do until i get around to squirting some silicone up there.
Last edited by photoleif; Apr 19, 2006 at 07:30 PM.
Jun 1, 2006 | 07:21 PM
#28
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From: Dolores, CO
followup lessons learned and observations:
1) the spring catches tend to loosen a bit when i 4-wheel, and if i wanted to fix this, i'd need to use hinges and a latch instead. it's not a big issue, but it's a bit annoying.
2) so far, no issues with the dual-optima setup. the internal resistances of the batteries are identical, and the charging rates seem very similar. i've had no heat buildup or outgassing. the voltages tend to equalize adequately. the starter right now is at 12.56v and the deep-cycle is at 12.91v. given that they shipped at 13.44v each i'm not too concerned. i'm thinking of getting a panel voltage readout to keep an eye on the deep-cycle anyway, so if it gets a bit high, i can turn it off and start using it.
3) the 3" memory-foam mattress is awesome, and knox foam is a winner of a company. i went cheaper with the foam elsewhere, but got the mattress cover from knox foam. great guys, highly recommended.
4) the forward compartments tend to not get used a lot since they're hard to get into with the mattress on top. i find myself kind of wishing i had my toolboxes somewhere more convenient, but that more convenient space is used by other stuff.
5) the painless wiring system is indeed painless. if you get one you'll see that you don't have to exactly follow their instructions concerning the order, but most everything does have to be completed. no missing parts...always good.
6) getting in and out of the back with the platform in it sometimes results in hitting the interior light. if yours is mounted in the rear, below the third brake light, be careful or you'll hit it with whatever... back, hip, head.
7) i still haven't figured out a proper spot to use for the tie-downs for the water jugs.
1) the spring catches tend to loosen a bit when i 4-wheel, and if i wanted to fix this, i'd need to use hinges and a latch instead. it's not a big issue, but it's a bit annoying.
2) so far, no issues with the dual-optima setup. the internal resistances of the batteries are identical, and the charging rates seem very similar. i've had no heat buildup or outgassing. the voltages tend to equalize adequately. the starter right now is at 12.56v and the deep-cycle is at 12.91v. given that they shipped at 13.44v each i'm not too concerned. i'm thinking of getting a panel voltage readout to keep an eye on the deep-cycle anyway, so if it gets a bit high, i can turn it off and start using it.
3) the 3" memory-foam mattress is awesome, and knox foam is a winner of a company. i went cheaper with the foam elsewhere, but got the mattress cover from knox foam. great guys, highly recommended.
4) the forward compartments tend to not get used a lot since they're hard to get into with the mattress on top. i find myself kind of wishing i had my toolboxes somewhere more convenient, but that more convenient space is used by other stuff.
5) the painless wiring system is indeed painless. if you get one you'll see that you don't have to exactly follow their instructions concerning the order, but most everything does have to be completed. no missing parts...always good.
6) getting in and out of the back with the platform in it sometimes results in hitting the interior light. if yours is mounted in the rear, below the third brake light, be careful or you'll hit it with whatever... back, hip, head.
7) i still haven't figured out a proper spot to use for the tie-downs for the water jugs.
Last edited by photoleif; Jun 1, 2006 at 07:25 PM. Reason: spelling
Jun 8, 2006 | 06:12 PM
#32
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From: Los Angeles
i have a 4runner that has a platform that we sleep on. we sleep with our heads towards the tailgate. it makes getting out easier. but the key is to make sure that when parking, the tail end is level or a little higher than the front end.
bob
bob
Jun 10, 2006 | 06:54 PM
#33
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From: Dolores, CO
thanks for your kind words (USATruck6 and PeanutRanger). so far so good with the platform (can't say as much for the CVs... but that's another sob-story). we sleep with heads near the cab, since i designed the space at the end to accommodate muddy boots, etc. i also kind of like sleeping with my feet hanging off a bed (dunno why... don't ask, don't know) so the gap facilitates that. the mattress does tend to get a bit dusty despite the sealing i did around the tailgate and such. i will do a bit more to try to tighten up those gaps.
Nov 15, 2014 | 01:19 PM
#37
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Joined: Nov 2014
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2012 tacoma
I was wondering if I could get a more detailed description of how you created the frame. It looks like you have a piece of plywood running down the long side. How did you work around the wheel well?? You can send a private message and I can send my email address. Thanks so much! !
Kaitlyn
Kaitlyn
Here's my most recent mod -- a sturdy sleeping platform suitable for two plus gear. The structure is out of 3/4" CDX plywood, and the carpet is boat carpet that is glued and stapled down (staples for the large areas, and glued around the edges). The platform top is screwed to its supports with pre-tapped 3" gold deck screws. The vertical supports are bracketed together at most 90° junctures using 4" steel brackets. At each corner the platform has a smaller compartment with a removeable lid, and in the middle close to the cab, I did one larger lid on a piano hinge. All use spray-painted 2" flush-mount barn door-style rings for pulls. I painted three coats of polyurethane on the bottom exposed faces and edges of all the wood, in case of an inadvertent flood. I tested it out last night (just sleeping, no flood) and everything worked like a champ. On to the pictures.
Full rear view showing tub storage and two side compartments suitable for 7-gal water jugs or a stove and other gear in the absence of a lot of water.
A closer view. I used spring-loaded closures to hold the lids down. It looked a little unfinished with unpainted edges, so I used black acrylic paint on the cut edges and undersides of the lids. The hardware arrived as bright zinc so I spray-painted it matte black.
A view showing the rear half of the underside. The larger middle compartments are about 36" deep, and due to the rear humps the rear side compartments are in the 22" range.
The cab-side center compartment with the piano hinge spans the center support; one half provides ample room for two ammo boxes in front, and about the same amount aft of them. I stuffed a sleeping bag in there yesterday.
The other side holds the 800-Watt inverter and provides over two cubic feet of volume for goodies. And next to that is the Optima d34M battery in its own compartment. At the other front corner is a similar compartment which I sealed with clear caulk to protect the contents from water.
The deep-cycle battery powers a pair of aux 12V sockets (one on the platform, the other mounted in the driver-side stow compartment which makes it convenient for the Peltier fridge). The deep-cycle powers the inverter, and that is wired to a pair of flush-mount 120V outlets.
The deep-cycle is bridged to the Optima Red-Top starter battery via a Painless brand dual battery control system, which I mounted under the hood near the charcoal canister. Here's the switch for it. Now is a good opportunity to rework ugly switches. I moved my fog light switch, which previously lived lower down, got in the way, and looked ill-conceived.
I needed some more tie-downs, so I installed two self-stowing flush-mount tie-downs designed for rail-top mounting. I had to bend the wings out in a vise to fit under the platform top, but they work great.
So, how's all this make me feel? Great! I used it last night in the wind, rain, ice and snow at 9,500 feet and it worked quite well. I definitely will be getting a 3" memory-foam mattress to put on top, but for now it did OK with a thermarest.
Finally, here's a simplified version of the drawing I did for guidance. I'm happy to say that with one exception I had no serious DOH moments, so I'm pleased.
Here's a parts list.
3 - 4x8 CDX 3/4" plywood (or buy higher grade and not have to sand as much)
1 - 1x2 #1 pine (8' length)
20 - 4" steel brackets
1 - box (100 pcs or so) of 1.75" 1/4-20 bolts, with nuts to match
40~50 3" deck screws
1 - pt polyurethane sealer
1 - qt black acrylic paint
1 - 5x6 feet boat carpet (i chose gray to match the cab interior)
1 - can 3M "90" spray adhesive
1 - 30" piano hinge (should have screws, but consider replacing with larger)
8 - spring latches (should come with screws)
2 - medium plastic tubs (appx dims 16w x 34d x 6h)
2 - large screw eyes to bungee in the plastic tubs
1 - adjustable bungee
1 - flush-mount 120V outlet
2 - flush-mount 12V sockets
various 10ga wires
A few gotchas you may want to keep in mind:
1) Putting in the larger top piece of plywood necessitated lifting the topper off the rail a bit to slide it in. The smaller top piece went in fine and could rotate.
2) Paint the edges of the lids, at a minimum, and consider painting the top as at least an outline so that once you cut the carpet, the seam won't show bright new plywood.
3) Ventilate very well when you use the spray adhesive, and if you get the 3M "90" adhesive, be aware it has a line-shaped dispersion pattern, which you can adjust at 90° or 0° depending on your needs.
4) If you'll be adding an aux battery, don't just measure the battery itself, but consider the bracketry and cables as well. I had to expand the compartment an inch after discovering that.
5) I used large cardboard pieces to pattern the wheel well humps prior to cutting out the far right and left edge supports. You may want to do straighter cuts to save wood. I used a jigsaw and cut them out fairly accurately.
6) Diagram out your bed corrugations or suffer the wrath of a creaking foundation. It turns out that half of my supports were 1/4" longer than the others due to resting on the actual bed rather than on top of a corrugation.
7) I had to remove two of the four cabside tie-downs. The platform simply wouldn't go in with the lower ones present.
If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. There are other pages to the machine drawing, so if anyone has this same model year and wants more detail, just ask and I'll send the Visio.
Full rear view showing tub storage and two side compartments suitable for 7-gal water jugs or a stove and other gear in the absence of a lot of water.
A closer view. I used spring-loaded closures to hold the lids down. It looked a little unfinished with unpainted edges, so I used black acrylic paint on the cut edges and undersides of the lids. The hardware arrived as bright zinc so I spray-painted it matte black.
A view showing the rear half of the underside. The larger middle compartments are about 36" deep, and due to the rear humps the rear side compartments are in the 22" range.
The cab-side center compartment with the piano hinge spans the center support; one half provides ample room for two ammo boxes in front, and about the same amount aft of them. I stuffed a sleeping bag in there yesterday.
The other side holds the 800-Watt inverter and provides over two cubic feet of volume for goodies. And next to that is the Optima d34M battery in its own compartment. At the other front corner is a similar compartment which I sealed with clear caulk to protect the contents from water.
The deep-cycle battery powers a pair of aux 12V sockets (one on the platform, the other mounted in the driver-side stow compartment which makes it convenient for the Peltier fridge). The deep-cycle powers the inverter, and that is wired to a pair of flush-mount 120V outlets.
The deep-cycle is bridged to the Optima Red-Top starter battery via a Painless brand dual battery control system, which I mounted under the hood near the charcoal canister. Here's the switch for it. Now is a good opportunity to rework ugly switches. I moved my fog light switch, which previously lived lower down, got in the way, and looked ill-conceived.
I needed some more tie-downs, so I installed two self-stowing flush-mount tie-downs designed for rail-top mounting. I had to bend the wings out in a vise to fit under the platform top, but they work great.
So, how's all this make me feel? Great! I used it last night in the wind, rain, ice and snow at 9,500 feet and it worked quite well. I definitely will be getting a 3" memory-foam mattress to put on top, but for now it did OK with a thermarest.
Finally, here's a simplified version of the drawing I did for guidance. I'm happy to say that with one exception I had no serious DOH moments, so I'm pleased.
Here's a parts list.
3 - 4x8 CDX 3/4" plywood (or buy higher grade and not have to sand as much)
1 - 1x2 #1 pine (8' length)
20 - 4" steel brackets
1 - box (100 pcs or so) of 1.75" 1/4-20 bolts, with nuts to match
40~50 3" deck screws
1 - pt polyurethane sealer
1 - qt black acrylic paint
1 - 5x6 feet boat carpet (i chose gray to match the cab interior)
1 - can 3M "90" spray adhesive
1 - 30" piano hinge (should have screws, but consider replacing with larger)
8 - spring latches (should come with screws)
2 - medium plastic tubs (appx dims 16w x 34d x 6h)
2 - large screw eyes to bungee in the plastic tubs
1 - adjustable bungee
1 - flush-mount 120V outlet
2 - flush-mount 12V sockets
various 10ga wires
A few gotchas you may want to keep in mind:
1) Putting in the larger top piece of plywood necessitated lifting the topper off the rail a bit to slide it in. The smaller top piece went in fine and could rotate.
2) Paint the edges of the lids, at a minimum, and consider painting the top as at least an outline so that once you cut the carpet, the seam won't show bright new plywood.
3) Ventilate very well when you use the spray adhesive, and if you get the 3M "90" adhesive, be aware it has a line-shaped dispersion pattern, which you can adjust at 90° or 0° depending on your needs.
4) If you'll be adding an aux battery, don't just measure the battery itself, but consider the bracketry and cables as well. I had to expand the compartment an inch after discovering that.
5) I used large cardboard pieces to pattern the wheel well humps prior to cutting out the far right and left edge supports. You may want to do straighter cuts to save wood. I used a jigsaw and cut them out fairly accurately.
6) Diagram out your bed corrugations or suffer the wrath of a creaking foundation. It turns out that half of my supports were 1/4" longer than the others due to resting on the actual bed rather than on top of a corrugation.
7) I had to remove two of the four cabside tie-downs. The platform simply wouldn't go in with the lower ones present.
If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. There are other pages to the machine drawing, so if anyone has this same model year and wants more detail, just ask and I'll send the Visio.
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