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Does anyone know of any posts with a pic of the second gen (94-95) 4runner slave cylinder tube and hose up to the firewall bracket? Thought maybe DRopzones older posts but didn't see any.
R150 and V6
I've been searching this and ohter forums for any clues but can't seem to get a good image. Even watched a few utubes. No luck. Enuf 'luck' to realize I also lost the exhaust bracket on driver side of tranny.
I took pics when I pulled the r150 off a 94. But that was going on a decade now. That computer died long past and my backup hard drive has gone legs up like a cockroach.
Many thanks amigos.
EDIT: user ZTBAILEY1 has a swap thread posted in the 3.4swaps forum that shows his engine bay with that line clearly shown. From 2012 ish.
Last edited by coopster; 11-10-2022 at 01:51 PM.
Reason: found a pic
The bent metal hydraulic tube 'is as' taken off of my 1986 2WD truck. I got tired of it being so immovable, so when I installed a new slave cylinder I made a hydraulic hose line to take it's place. It's a bit longer as that was the shortest pre-made braided line I could find. I added the connectors on the ends. It has one bigger loop now. Been in for maybe 13 years now and no leaks or issues. It will be good for when I have to jack up the engine to install new motor mounts next summer.
Related question (I think) - I need to swap my clutch slave and looking for advice on how to access it for removal/replacement - the hydraulic line is pretty tucked away. I was able to break the fitting (did not remove it yet) - I'm concerned about reconnecting the fitting once I get the new slave installed. Any tips would be appreciated.
When I still used the hard line, I preinstalled the hard line end fitting loosely into the new unmounted slave cylinder. It was easy to align the parts with the slave cylinder not installed. Then it was easy to handle the slave cylinder to locate it to be installed and then completely tighten the hard line connector. I finally got rid of the hard line for a hydraulic steel wrapped flex line seen above. No regrets.
Using a set of Rino ramps to get under the truck an have more working room makes a huge difference.
Hey JoeS.
Where'd you get your flex line? Local autoparts store? And the other end just attached to the hard line and bracket up on firewall? I DID install that bracket (some years ago!)
Bought the hydraulic line online from JEG's Performance. Think it was an 8" length. I had to buy two AN fittings for each end to screw into the slave cylinder and the hard line bracketed onto the frame. I do not know the size.
Hey JoeS - thanks for your response, that's what I was thinking was the best way to approach it. That's the least of my worries now however - snapped the front bolt off trying to remove the slave this weekend. It's such a tight space, I have no idea how I'm going to be able to access it to try and drill it out and re-tap it. Any suggestions?
Ouch. Yes its going to be tight. Enough room between frame and cylinder for a ratchet and socket. Maybe if you can find some Kroil (i think is name brand - all your favorite utuibers use it.)
Then maybe can soak it for a few days and maybe get an 'easy out' on it. IF you have a body lift its better access. The brake lines and Antilock brake T's don't help.
If you don't have a pair of Rhino Ramps. get some. They are a god send for working under the truck. Doesn't seem like much height. but they do provide much needed wrenching and crawling access room. Wish I bought a set sooner. Go tallest ones you can get. The best tool I bought in a long time was a set of swivel head ratcheting box wrenches. Worth ever penny. Use them now more than sockets and they fit in tighter places.
Coopster has the right idea to soak, drill, and easy out. Depending on how much bolt is exposed out the block and you have good tack welding skills you could weld a nut to the end and try again after a soak and some heat.
Thanks for the advice. I haven't removed the other bolt and/or cylinder yet, but judging by what's left of the head of the broken bolt, I think it broke pretty flush with the mating surface. I am also doing a lot of brake line replacement and as much as I'd like to avoid it, I wonder if moving the brake lines/tees in that area would give me better access. And I have no welding skills and not sure if this is where I want to start, so if I can figure out the access, I'm planning on drilling the bolt out.
Regarding the rhino ramps - thinking I might be better off with jack stands on the frame - that way the front suspension hangs giving me the most access possible through the wheel well?
Have plenty to do on this truck so I might just come back to this particular problem another time. I'll let you know how I make out.... Thanks again.
Probably true on the wheel well idea. I have my tires off. Remember if you open the brake lines (which you would to move those brackets out of the way), the FSM says to bleed the antilock (rear) brakes, you must first bleed the power steering. You aren't opening those p/s lines obviously, but keep that in the back of your mind when you go to bleed everything.
You're saying you have to bleed the power steering before bleeding the brakes? The two are somehow connected? I wasn't aware of that.
I just replaced the rear brake lines from the proportioning valve back because the lines on the axle were rotted. Same for the front brakes - replaced the flex hose and hard line that connects to the caliper. I was going to replace the master cylinder while I was it and, then bleed the whole system.
Your comment and a quick google search tells me I have some more research to do...
My bad.
Pg 67: HINT: Whenever PS hoses or PS pressure tube are disconnected or actuator removed the Rear (ABS system) should be bled
1- Bleed Power Steering System using conventional proceedure
2-Bleed Brake System
(a) Bleed brake system with engine running
(b) Bleed the system with engine off.
3- Bleed Power Steering System Again (and that involves a thru k and involves a SST of some sort).
Do you have a 4-wheel drive truck? Mine is 2WD so using ramps lets me easily slide under the passenger side to forward access the slave unit. I don't know how a transfer case would block that approach. Most everything is easier on a 2WD. If you have to access through the wheel well then then jack stands are the way to go for sure.
Yes - 4WD. I don't even know access through the wheel well is all that good. I think I'm just going to ignore this problem for now and hope it fixes itself
Like I said, plenty of other work to do on the truck...
Related question (I think) - I need to swap my clutch slave and looking for advice on how to access it for removal/replacement - the hydraulic line is pretty tucked away. I was able to break the fitting (did not remove it yet) - I'm concerned about reconnecting the fitting once I get the new slave installed. Any tips would be appreciated.
So I found the easy way was to break the line fitting loose then pull the slave off the transmission and unscrew it rather than the line. Then the reverse for putting the new one on.
Good tip Sniped. The tubing and flare nut were moving together when I tried cracking it - hopefully I can gently break those free without breaking the line and unscrew like you suggest. Then deal with the snapped bolt - ugh.
Good tip Sniped. The tubing and flare nut were moving together when I tried cracking it - hopefully I can gently break those free without breaking the line and unscrew like you suggest. Then deal with the snapped bolt - ugh.
Just dealt with this like ten times with a clutch gremlin ($900 later found out I'm dumb and installed the friction plate backward). That said your broken bolt while hard to get to drill a hole in the bolt smaller than it then use an EZ out to thread into the pre-drilled hole. Should work like a champ. Without pulling the transmission your best bet is likely to take your tire off and the starter access panel in that wheel well maybe? and possibly get those brake line t's loose from the frame and work through there. I know it well, the starter and the slave are not easy to get to at all!
Resurrecting this and seeking advice - I've had plenty to do on the truck so I've been ignoring this broken bolt problem, but now at the point I need to deal with it. I was planning to try drilling it out - but the space constraints still make me nervous that I can do it without damaging the aluminum threads - so I'm considering the welded nut approach.
That said - I have ZERO welding experience. But from what I see, it doesn't take much welding skill at all to get the nut welded to the broken bolt, and the big box rents a welding machine for almost less than the cost of good drill bits, extensions, etc... Also, the bolt is proud of the trans by about the thickness of the slave mounting bracket (about 1/4") - so should make it a bit easier to tack onto it.
Am I underestimating the skill required to do this? Does anyone have experience doing this and have some tips? Anything you have to offer is appreciated.
11-08-2022, 07:30 PM
