Just looking for your thoughts from past experience
Had the driverside guide break on timing chain, and chain started eating cover. Have everything apart but cant get head off. Head bolt snapped on #3 exhaust side. Got rocker arm assembly off and have one inche of bolt shaft sticking up. Will try welding nut. Tried all kinds of prying and can't get head to come loose. Is it a bad idea to lift head off with cherry picker? Should I just pull the motor rather than undoing diff to get oil pan off? It seems that it would be easier to unbolt tranny and motor mounts and get the thing out of the truck to work on it.

 

You said you have everything apart, does that include having removed the timing cover? If not, there is the "hidden" bolt in the front of the head that goes into the cover that could be holding it down still.

 

almost every single timing chain/hg replacement has had that happen. it happened to me.

if you have a cherry-picker (i'm assuming it's the same as an engine hoist), then it will help a bunch. use it to put upward tension on the head while you wiggle the head off

do not use anything on the underside of the head to avoid marring.

once you get the head off, use a pipe wrench to jerk the bolt loose.

pics in a sec...

 

I got the hidden bolt out but cover is still on, oil pan gaket is tough, might need to drop whole pan, that is why I am considering pulling motor.

 

start from here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51699979

 

Pulling the pan isn't all that hard from the bottom, but I've seen/heard it can be tricky/messy when getting it back up with all that fipg on.

I personally decided to pull the entire motor (after having already pulled the pan with engine still in) and was able to get a great seal on the oil pan while on the engine stand. It really makes sense to pull the engine if you need or plan on changing the clutch in the near future.

 

you don't need to put fipg on the pan before positioning it. i rested the oil pan under the block, started from the back with fipg, and moved the pan straight up to the block. no mess. it was easy enough to do by sitting up in the engine bay (where the radiator used to be- removed for replacement).

but grego is right. i would have much rather pulled the engine, worked on a stand, and replaced the clutch while i was there. but it's still manageable to do it in-truck

 

x2, if you have time and resources...just pull it.

 

Pull it, it's a good time to do preventative maintenance-have a good look around anyway. Like Grego said, good chance to take a peek at the clutch, too.

 

Thanks for info. Trying to get the head loose from the block, have everything off except exhaust manifold because of a stripped nut. Even using engine hoist to point of starting to lift front of truck. I don't want to put too much pressure on the head. I can get it to wiggle but seems stuck hard at right rear where head bolt with snapped head is still in. Assumed it would slide off but that bolt might be binding it. It is the exact same bolt in irab88's pic.

Removed intake, exhaust at manifold, hidden bolt to itming chain cover, delivery pipes, 9 of 10 complete head bolts and one snapped head.

Any other hidden bolts? Exhaust manifold shouldn't matter?

 

well....there are pipes that run along the BACK of the head that are attached to the head by at least 1 if not 2 bolts.check out "THREAD B" in my sig. (post #47 shows the back of the head) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...88/index2.html

and YES. I would pull the motor.

 

no other bolts. just keep tension on it and wiggle. it took me a full day and a half to get it off.

you also might try using some pb blaster on that snapped bolt.