I'm looking at buy a CLEAN 89 pickup 4x4 ex-cab V6 5spd with a roll-bar and rock skids. Its red w/ grey interior that's very clean. 95% rust & dent free. Runs/drives but has the service engine soon light on and may need some clutch work but has a new slave cylinder. It does need tires but still drivable.

He said he would sell it to me for $2000.

Think its a good buy?
I think is, but want some more opinions on it.
Thanks!

 

doesn't sound like too bad of a deal, but I'd find out what the CEL is on for first.

 

theres a service engine soon light? you mean the check engine light? that means theres a problem.

 

Yea, CEL, sorry. I'v been driving Chevy's scince I could drive and thats what they have for light.

 

Everytime I see my check engine light come on, I stop... pop open the hood... run out and open it... see the engine... close the hood and run back to the driver's seat and start yelling at the computer:
MY GAWDAMMED ENGINE IS STILL THERE! WHY DO YOU WANT ME TO KEEP CHECKIN' IT?

 

I looked it up, it books fairly high and IS A CLEAN TRUCK so I would put it in the $3000+ price range.
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.a...&z=50701&da=-1

Its got around 170,000 on the chassis, body, and tranny, but only around 3000 on the motor.

 

i'd figure out what the code is, and figure out how much its gunna cost to fix it. if its something easy you could score a good deal.

 

you better have it checked out first. Make sure it isnt codes 24-25 or even 52. The 52 would be a knock sensor and the other 2 could be a lean/rich possibly having low compression. Get it checked

 

Okay, thanks for these codes. I am going to get it checked out today (my buddy has a scan tool) so I can figure out what it is. I will post what code/codes it throws on here and see what all of you come up with as far as what its going to take to get it repaired.

Hers pic of it too.

 

I have buying up toyotas since this rediculuos gas screwing we are subjecting our sevles too! Buy it quick! I found myself getting excited when I found fuel for a low $3.20 per Gal. it has worked I guess i am officially brain washed accepting anything less than the day before is good. Say NO to anything over .99 per gal; unless you can make up for the differance in mileage, this is where I need the input ( the best way to get more MPG?

 

Getting the codes takes a very special scan tool. You can pick a box of them up for a buck or so at almost any store. It's called a paper-clip.
Open the hood and look on the passenger-side fender well for the diagnostic plug. Short the T1 and E1 terminals with the clip- there should be a diagram of the terminal layouts on the inside of the lid. Turn the key on. Codes, if there are any stored, will be blinked to you by the check engine light. So you might get some flashes in a row with a short pause, about 1 second, then more flashes followed by a longer pause, about 4 seconds. So if there was 1 flash, a pause, 4 flashes, a long pause... that would be code 14, for instance. After it's blinked all the codes out, it starts over from the beginning.
If there are no codes stored, the light will blink rapidly and continuously.

 

last time mine lit up, i was on my way home from work, early spring. stopped by the dealer and asked the service person, 'what gives?' he suggested it was related to the emissions system and change in temp & humidity and said it may take anywhere from a day to a week to clear by itself.

open your fuel filler cap for a couple of minutes to depressurize things. if you need fuel ($$$) might as well top it off. drive as per normal and it should go away, mine did after a couple of days. it happens every now and again during the spring and fall.

lee