gixxer1000

I just replaced the timing chain cover, head gasket , and timing components. Everything was lined up properly. The truck starts and idles fine, has plenty of power until its in THIRD gear, then its flat on power, almost like its loading up. Then when going up hills, the engine lacks power.

Could this be a timing issue or possibly a vaccum leak ?

I set the distributor to the last previous location, but not sure if its correct.
My timing light is not working, so I'm just guessing at it now until I get a new light.

How is timing checked on a 1991 22re ?

abecedarian

Checking timing... involves shorting the E1 and T1 terminals in the 'diagnostic' plug then pointing the timing light at the crankshaft pulley. When you short those terminals together, the engine should noticibly change the idle speed. If it doesn't, then the TPS (throttle position sensor) is possibly out of adjustment or bad. You can check that out with the guide here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I suggest checking the TPS as well though, even if there is no apparent problem.
Otherwise, loosen and spin the distributor until the timing marks align with the sticker under the hood.If you don't have a sticker, it's best to set it to 0 and check it out by removing the wire you used to short the test connector terminals. If you've got no pinging or other problems, repeat the process but move it 2 degrees each time until you get very light pinging (imagine what it would sound like having bits of aluminum foil being rattled around in a tin can) under very light-throttle acceleration, on flat ground, when in 4th gear. Then turn the timing back about 1-2 degrees.

If that doesn't fix the problem it IS possible that the camshaft timing is off, meaning the cam is opening the valves sooner than it should. If that's the case, you'll have to be very careful and remove the timing gear from the cam, seperate the chain from the gear and turn the gear ONE tooth counter-clockwise (while in front of the engine) and put it back together. Be very careful to not let the chain come off of the crankshaft sprocket 'cause if it does you'll be pulling the chain back off and possibly the head as well to replace bent valves.

gixxer1000

Thankyou for the detailed instructions......I will try this first thing in the morning.....its pouring outside now...and the garage is in bad shape until the weekend. THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP !!!

abecedarian

Keep us informed- reply here and let us know if what I wrote helps fix it or didn't help at all. There are many here that like, rather want, to help.
Good luck!

gixxer1000

I know the cam shaft timing was correct when I put it back together, the timing marks where all lined up, I checked that about 10 times. The marks all lined up with the marks on the chain.

Is it still possible its off by one tooth even if everything lined up ?

abecedarian

not really. there are specific number of links on each side of those index marks on the chain.
it is possible that the valves aren't adjusted correctly though.

gixxer1000

I haven't messed with the valves yet, I didn't touch them at all.

Just the head gasket went bad. The truck ran fine before the head gasket change. I just replaced the head gasket, and replaced all gaskets with new ones. I put the original head back on , with no valve adjustments, so I'm hoping its just the timing thats off.

abecedarian

It's possible that the distributor slipped a tooth when re-installed.
Hopefully (x'd fingers) that's all.
Given your confidence in the work, that's most likely it.
But it won't hurt to check the valves.

gixxer1000

I will try the timing light first, then I will pull the valve cover again and check the valves and distributor tooth. I marked the tooth on the distributor before removing it originally, before the head gasket change. So I just lined it back up that way.


Lets say the tooth is off on the distributor, will it hurt if I turn it one tooth foward or back, then try running the engine again ?

abecedarian

turning the 'tooth' on the distributor will only move the distributor 'that' far, like saying that you can't get enough advance, take the distributor out and move it one tooth, that will give move the rotor that far and allow you more room for adjustment.

The only thing it will hurt is if it is not correct and you drive it for a long distance. But you'll know with your timing light if you're going in the right direction.

gixxer1000

Sounds good, I will have to look it over in the morning once I get a new timing light. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP.

This is the first head I ever took apart, and it wouldn't have been possible without this forum !!!!! I'm no wrench, but I figured I didn't have anything to loose, so I tried it out.
There is ALOT OF HELPFUL / KNOWLEDGEABLE guys on this site that have posted very helpful directions and links to get the job done.


THANKS AGAIN !!!!!

abecedarian

Good luck.
Let us know.

toyota_mdt_tech

Could be cam or ignition timing. Cam timing, when at TDC "O" on the crank, the timing p ark will be slightly to the left of striaght up as you are looking at it over the grille. Also, if your TPS is misadjusted, you can not properly set base timing and if you try, you will end up wiht what amounts to like 20' ATDC for ignition timing.

gixxer1000

My timing problem looks like it was just setting up the proper timing.

I bought a new light, and jumpered out the diagnostic port. I set the timing to 5' according to the sticker on the hood, and then removed the jumper.

The truck seems to run alot better now, and seems to have more power.

The timing is showing above 15' when the jumper is removed, and 5' when the jumper is reinstalled.

Does this sound correct ?



But I have a slight knock now coming from the valves, it was propbably there before but never noticed it .

Does it matter which way the rocker arm assembly goes ?

I had it labeled for the front side, but now I'm thinking after I cut the tag off, I may have spun it around.

I know I should still check the valves clearances...


Also another thing is the temp. gauge in the truck only goes maybe 1/8 above the Cold mark, it has been doing this for a few years, but I wanted to try and fix it. I'm looking for ways to test the sensor and sending units also.



THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP !!!!!!!