Self-Painted rigs
#201
Flat tan is a cool color and I love the why my truck has turned out but it is a pain to keep clean. Your regular road dirt and mud come off fine. It's the greasy finger prints that are the worst, I have a few spots were I can't get them off but only I notice them.
#202
my father and i painted my truck in the driveway, with tree cover. we used a urethane primer, toyota tacoma "speedway blue" (matalic pearl blue) and clear coat. it turned out really nice, with only a few small drips and insects
heres how it looked back in the summer.


i have to touch up a few tiny spots after this winter, rust is begining to come through. salt
heres how it looked back in the summer.


i have to touch up a few tiny spots after this winter, rust is begining to come through. salt

#203
Roller job. 8 coats of Rustoleum Gloss White diluted 50% with mineral spirits. Wet sanded between coats. Buffed out with polishing compound and random orbital buffer, then waxed.
Biggest regrets: 1.) Using a primer that was slightly darker shade of white than the main coat. The problem was that I kept sanding through to the primer while wet sanding. With Rustoleum you really don't need a primer anyway, since the paint is designed to go over unprimed metal and even light rust.
2.) Putting paint too heavy on the sides of the truck, resulting in drips, which were a nightmare to sand flat, as well as tell when they actually had been flattened or not. DON"T LET YOUR PAINT DRIP.
3.) Painting during a 105 degree heat wave, resulting in severe drying problems.
Also, it was a PITA to paint around the rubber weatherstripping on the windows. If I had the tools and experience to do it, I would have removed it, and gotten a much more professional-looking result.
Biggest regrets: 1.) Using a primer that was slightly darker shade of white than the main coat. The problem was that I kept sanding through to the primer while wet sanding. With Rustoleum you really don't need a primer anyway, since the paint is designed to go over unprimed metal and even light rust.
2.) Putting paint too heavy on the sides of the truck, resulting in drips, which were a nightmare to sand flat, as well as tell when they actually had been flattened or not. DON"T LET YOUR PAINT DRIP.
3.) Painting during a 105 degree heat wave, resulting in severe drying problems.
Also, it was a PITA to paint around the rubber weatherstripping on the windows. If I had the tools and experience to do it, I would have removed it, and gotten a much more professional-looking result.
Last edited by peckinpah; Mar 7, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
#204
having the right temp reducers and spray gun is critical if you ever need help ill answer your questions i do show quality paint it can be a pita but you try not to let that ever happen in the first place !! thats the key !!!
#206
This is a great thread. I'm going to self paint my rig soon too and am trying to decide what paint I'm going to use. I'm definitely going to strip to bare metal and use a base coat and clear instead of a one stage but I also want to keep it somewhat economical.
#209
painted my 87 over the summer. i built a paint booth in my garage and borrowed a compressor and hvlp gun. a lot of work that i'm glad i did but i wouldn't do it again. color is toyota 416 dune beige. also took some lift out and went from 32"s to 31"s. don't have time to wheel anymore so i wanted more of a daily driver for in the winter so when the wife steals my 4runner i still have a 4wd.


#213
#217

thx and sure is haha cheap primor that works good and krylon oilve green..



$7 cans of camo paint at ACE. 






