I have noticed that I have some spots that the paint has bubbled. I scrapped the bubbles and found that the body under these bubbles are rusty metal. I would like to stop the rust and have searched the archives and found nothing about how to stop the rust. I know I must sand it down to shinny metal and sand the paint so it is scuffed up around it to accept some patching paint. What is the proper procedure to patch this or fix this so it does not reappear? Some one at work told me about using some fiberglass resin that contains some kind of fibers. Would that work?
I have a 88 4 cyl pu.

 

I cut out the rusted area and welded in new sheet metal. PIA, but no more rust. get replacement sheet metal free from dealers pile of bent fenders.

 

I took an angle grinder to all my rust and then painted over it to stop rust from continuing and the bad rust i had to bondo over.

 

* clean the metal.

* treat with a phosphate rust converter.

* repaint.

 

Moved from Cali to North Carolina and bam me too.... So here's my worry...
I get that I need to grind/sand down shinney and treat the spot and paint over it but, it's my beater ( I love her, but she's my beater) some day I will give her a proper paint job so I want to make sure that I can spot paint/primer the trouble spots but it won't screw up the real paint job I get some day. Like the spot showing through real paint or real paint not adhearing to what I treat it with.
What should I use so it doesn't mess up any future pro do I get latter?

 

Google por15
go to the site
read up and you
will be a rust expert
in less than 10 minutes

its a great product. Just dont spray
the metal ready in your eyes. Hurt for
three days.

 

best tip so far...... no spray paint in eyes....

 

what is a phosphate rust converter? can I get it at a parts store? I have some rust similar to what HELIDRIVER has.
Off the topic, from the picture, I notice you have a base sticker for cherry point, nc. I was in the Marine Corps many many years ago and stationed at cherry point, nc.

 

Phosphoric acid or tannic acid converts the surface of the metal so it won't rust. It also converts existing rust.

I'm looking at some of the formulations for various rust treatment sprays. It looks like phosphoric acid isn't used much anymore, at least not for consumer products.

 

Or try rust bullet, my 88 has the dreaded bubbles too. I moved from NH to Ca so perhaps it will slow down.

 

Semper Fi, hate it hear can't wait to get back to the west coast...!!!!! For the rust issue too

So question about the rust converters will that interfere with a future pro job?

 

Aye, as long as Semper Fi's are flying around,
SEMPER FI

 

I ended up going to O'Reilly's auto parts store and got some spray stuff from Dupli-paint that you can spray over the rust and it coverts it to a black coating. I then lightly sanded it semi smooth (just enough to remove the extreme high spots) then sprayed it again. I then sprayed it with some primer and painted it.
I know that is not the preferred method of fixing a rusty problem, but it sure looks better than it did and, it looks great for a daily driver. I LOVE DRIVIN MY TOYOTA!!

Once a marine, always a marine, like for 27 years of corps service.

 

Where is it rusting? mmmm like I have to ask.

 

yeah, i think i just got to hit it with some sand paper, it's only on the surface. rust converter it and hit it with primer. I just don't want her earning the name "patches" here on base until "someday" when a pretty black will become a priority....