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Rust?

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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:40 AM
  #21  
4Crawler's Avatar
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
You can use the Metal Ready stuff from Por-15:
- http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=2

It is basically a phosphoric acid + zinc mix that will etch the steel and leave a zinc and iron phosphate coating on the steel that the Por-15 primer will go over. I use this combination all the time and it works well.

For a rust converter, I have had good luck with Duro (now Loctite) Extend. It is a milky white liquid like latex paint that you brush onto bare metal and rust. Any rust is converted to a black material and everything is covered with a clear coating, ready to paint over.
- http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168

Last edited by 4Crawler; Aug 22, 2008 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:40 AM
  #22  
thook's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by ThomasTedder
I don't understand that. If you don't leave any rust for the rust converter, it won't convert the rust? Maybe because there's no rust left to convert?

I believe what he meant was that the rust converter not only converts rust, but forms a protective primer that seals the metal from further oxidation. Of course, that's also what I've read about them and have been told by folks that sell it.

I suppose I'll have to question the amusement park guy more about how they apply it exactly.

And, believe me....I'm not debating. I just want to know what everyone does/has done so when I use it, I do it right. Don't want any "grey areas" in this process.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 07:56 AM
  #23  
BoostinChick's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Abington, PA
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
You can use the Metal Ready stuff from Por-15:
- http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=2

It is basically a phosphoric acid + zinc mix that will etch the steel and leave a zinc and iron phosphate coating on the steel that the Por-15 primer will go over. I use this combination all the time and it works well.

For a rust converter, I have had good luck with Duro (now Loctite) Extend. It is a milky white liquid like latex paint that you brush onto bare metal and rust. Any rust is converted to a black material and everything is covered with a clear coating, ready to paint over.
I trust your judgment and will attempt this product.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:09 AM
  #24  
ThomasTedder's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: 1986 22RE
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
You can use the Metal Ready stuff from Por-15:
- http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=2

For a rust converter, I have had good luck with Duro (now Loctite) Extend. It is a milky white liquid like latex paint that you brush onto bare metal and rust. Any rust is converted to a black material and everything is covered with a clear coating, ready to paint over.
- http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168
That's like the stuff I have used. The spray stuff is pretty much the same thing in an aerosol can. I prefer the spray because it will lay it out in an even coat with less sanding work.


thook, when this stuff cures, it's basically the same thing as a primer sealer.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #25  
okie81's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Nor, CAL
Use Por-15, as mentioned above, I love the stuff. Forget formaldehyde, I wanna be embalmed with Por-15! ha ha
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:09 PM
  #26  
Swansen's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Michigan
I've been through a crap ton of rust converters, and basically, you just need to lay it on REAL thick, like, soak the crap out of the rust, make sure it penetrates well. As far as products used, i've gotten results out of these two.
1_step_rust_killer_pricing.htm
Permatex
The Permatex stuff is AWESOME, just lay on around four coats and your golden. That said, rust converter generally works better for thicker metal, so if those rust spots are to deep, then your only choice is to replace the sheet metal.
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