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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

rounded headbolt

Old May 5, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #1  
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rounded headbolt

Thats right, I manged to round off the head off of one of EB's new 12mm 12pt headbolts on my 3.0

I was torque'n the heads, doing the 1st 1/4 turn, got to bolt #8 just about at the 1st 1/4 turn when it slipped past...

I went and bought a set of craftsman damaged bolt remove, well it requires a 3/4" socket, the 3/4" socket or wrench is to big to fit in there...

Anyone else have any ideas?
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Old May 5, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Hummm. What exactly happened? Did the bolt shear apart? Or did you just strip the head? You have to get to the root of the problem? Were you using a lubricant or sealant on the treads? Were the threads dirty? Do you have a picture of it?

I'd personally try and weld on a nut if you can get to it. If not, then you are left with using an extractor and/or drilling it out. Either way I'd plan on re-doing the whole head, just to be safe. Good luck.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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I was torque'n the head bolts down to spec... books calls for 33ft-lbs, 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn. I was on the last bolt doing the 1st 1/4 turn. I just about got it to a full 1/4turn when my torque wrench just went past. I stripped the head of the headbolt..

At this point I think my only solution is to weld a nut onto it, but I do not know anyone with a welder.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Most towns have a mobile welder. That would be your best bet if you don't have access to one. Or maybe rent a welder? Good luck, post back when you get it fixed.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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I don't know much about welding, but I'm tempted to go down and pick up a 110 welder, I could use one anyway for working on my 82' yota and replacing the floorpans.

I never thought about renting a welder, say I get ahold of a 110v welder, how would I go about welding it? I'm a complete newb to welding, btw.

Do you think if I JB Welded a socket it might hold, I'm kind of doubting it myself. I imagine the bolt is probably torqued to 45-50lbs... I torqued it to 33ft-lbs and then give it a 1/4 turn... I'd love to get a nut welded on it, cause I could just finish tightning it up and be done with it.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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I've never worked on heads before, but would it be possible to get at it with vice grips?
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Old May 6, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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I doubt the bolt would be able to come out with vise grips even if you were able to get a good hold on it. Nor do I think JB weld would be strong enough because your surface area wouldn't be that large.

Chuki, I don't mean to discourage you from trying to weld, but in taking off this head bolt, it will be critical to get a good weld. If you have never welded before, this is not the time to try your hand out. Find someone who is already a good welder.

In terms of purchasing a welder, it really depends on what you are doing and plan to do with it. For most people a MIG wire feed welder with gas like a Millermatic 135 is a good choice. There are lots of welding web sites that can help you determine which welder would be appropriate for you.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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hello chuki will just the 3/4 socket fit? i also agree with wrenchmonster with the fact that you dont want to be trying to learn how to weld on a critical section like this one.however if you are thinking of purchasing a welder i would look at something with 220v instead of a 110v.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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the 3/4" socket is to big with the damage nut bolt extractor kit I bought, and took back...

If I did get the/a welder I would definently practice a hell of alot on scrap peices...

I'm debating now, loading my runner up on a trailer and taking it down to someone who can weld, or just whipping out my dremel and grinding the head into my own 6pt head, and just getting the best socket I can on it...

Thanks for the help guys, this was the last nail in the coffin for this 3.0 engine, It's tired and worn, and I was planning on either rebuilding or an engine swap, I was planning on just doing a rebuild, with some cam, and headers, bigger tbody, etc.. just to save myself the hassle of doing an engine swap, after changing or trying to change the headgaskets on this thing, I have since changed my mind. When I can afford it, this 3.0 is getting the hell out of my engine bay!!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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Well after several days of frustration, I finally got the bolt out... In the end it took 3 things... 1/2" drive 7/16" 12pt socket, 4" socket extension, and a BFH (big fuggin hammer.)

Hopefully I'm done with all the bumps in the road and I can get this damn thing put back together and on the road!!!!!!!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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i like your solution

had you used craftsman stuff and ˟˟˟˟ up anything in the process you can simply exchange it
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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Thats what it was, craftsman socket and extension...

I talked with EB (engnbldr.com) the problem was a combo of a few things.

It appears more error on my part, but the fact still remains... The headbolts EB sells have a 12mm 12pt head instead of the 14mm OEM size. EB went to 12mm to help with the bolts closest to the firewall so you could get on them better without fear of rounding the heads off. Well the 12mm 12pt socket fits in the socket a little loose, not a problem really for the casual DIY type guy. Well my problem was I was using a 12mm 12pt socket that had been around the world and back many times so it was worn. So that combined with the bolt being undersized a tad is what rounded it off. EB sent me another set of bolts, and requested the original set I bought back to him to analyze them and make sure the company that engineers his bolts, heat treated them correctly.

So a recommendation from me, and I'm sure EB would recommend it to, make sure you have a socket thats in good condition, and take caution and make sure you keep that socket square on the bolts. That something you should do anyway! So in other words, just a friendly reminder


But boy was I sure tickled pink when I got it off... I had ruined 2 sockets at the point, before I finally said its time to use a good socket now, even after using a brass drift, aluminum drift, and wood, none of that worked to get it on, before I finally said F* this!!!! and just started beating on the extension directly, a couple of tries of taking it off and beating on it some more I got it out!

Last edited by Chuki; May 11, 2006 at 02:06 PM.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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glad to hear you got it out....that could have been a PITA to deal with, but it sounds like luck(and friction) were on your side

another application of the hillbilly scientific method validated...if it doesn't work, get a bigger hammer!!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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I bet you'll use 6pt from now on on those things
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Old May 11, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AH64ID
I bet you'll use 6pt from now on on those things
it's hard to use a 6pt socket on a 12pt bolt

The head bolts, and eb's new head bolts are 12pt bolts. No way a 6pt socket will work for you at all.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuki
it's hard to use a 6pt socket on a 12pt bolt

The head bolts, and eb's new head bolts are 12pt bolts. No way a 6pt socket will work for you at all.

DOH!!!!
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