rocklover

Thanks Ill get on this after work!

I went out to the truck and was just poking my head around looking for grounds and the only one I see is next to the fuse box passenger side, and underneath the coil/igniter mount. My instincts tell me there are more where do they hide?

rocklover

***Also some pertinent information

My gas gauge has always acted funny and will drop down to E quickly from a quarter tank, without the light coming on and sit there for a while, I fill it up and the pump stops at 12 or 13 gallons even when i fill it to the point it shoots back out at me. I have run it down to the point the low fuel light comes on but thats after 50+ miles it hits E. Don't like to run it a mile past that light coming on.



This recent jerking and bucking/misfire at takeoff from 1st and 2nd in low rpm's occurred when I dropped below the quarter tank mark two days ago. I'm going to throw some gas in it today on my way home.

Teuf

Superbleeder posted the ground point in the form of pictures at one time. I thought i saved them but i cant find the link.

SC T100

I'm not toally sure of all of them, but just pulling, scraping and reinstalling the the grounds you find in the engine bay is probably a good start. There should be one near the battery too unless it's the same one you mentioned on your truck.

One other thing that happened on a T100 that may be applicable...the knock sensor wire insulation can go bad and if it cracks and corrodes can cause some of the same symptoms. and it don't think it threw any codes. Worth a look if nothing else. I will try to dig up the thread.

Here it is: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=368910

rocklover

Hey everybody I a just got off work and stopped by Oreilly auto parts to borrow their compression tester and...its not so good

****I screwed up this test ignore

Cylinder 1: 105 psi
Cylinder 2: 105 psi
Cylinder 3: 125 psi
Cylinder 4:..95 psi


Here are some pics of 3 plugs when I pulled them if it's any help. They have less than 5,000 on them. *** Notice in the second image if you can tell the plug on one side doesn't even look burned???? 2 of them were like that





Here's a link to better quality pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/alunnrh...eat=directlink

I don't know what to do from here? Leak down test? i'm really just at a loss because it runs pretty dam well some times, well moments, and I just don't know what to think of the numbers..... I feel like it shouldn't even be running.

**Update on the missing and jerking coming out of first and second, it started to do it today on the way to work and back home but only after I've been driving it for 15 or 20 minutes and yes I did put gas in it. And it did it in all gears but only 3 and 4th if i decelerated down a hill for while

Mr.Utah

I once had a toyota that would act like this when it got hot, drove me crazy and many mechanics could not figure it out. One mechanic finally stated that it was the distributor that had gone bad. Bought one at AZ, it ran perfect. Maybe this could be a possibility?

Even if you have low compression, you can still run the vehicle, you just wont get all the power.

ToyoTech559

should have a charger or jump pack on battery so you have enough power to keep the starter cranking at or around the same speed. the throttle body should be held open. all spark plugs removed. i do about 7-10 cranks each cylinder. also do each cylinder about 3 times and get the average

here are specs
Std 171 psi (1,177 kPa)
Minimum 142 psi (981 kPa)
Difference between cylinders 14 psi (98 kPa)

rocklover

I'll check my distro, I have an extra one I can throw on that I keep in the garage. Thanks for keeping the idea flowing!
That is why I am so confused with these numbers, this is my 3rd 1st gen 4runner with the 22re, and this one by far has the most power out of the three i have owned. But I may have screwed up the compression test

Thanks I probably should have asked the best way to do the test... I didn't hold the throttle wide open, or have all the spark plugs removed, just one at a time then put them back in. i also just pulled the wire from the coil to the distr., prob not the smartest thing thinking about it. Is there any particular fuse I can pull to kill injectors and ignition system but not the starter? Or perhaps just the ignition system, do injectors matter?

Also I am going in tomorrow to get the timing done for 20 bucks at my local mechanic. but until then I retarded the timing a bit, I think it was too advanced I had some pinging I never noticed because of no muffler that then went away when i retarded, hopefully no permanent damage has been done. although I do hear a slight knock that didn't go away when i retarded......(different from the pinging).

ToyoTech559

you can pull the EFI fuse. and pulling the coil would be the next thing i do. dont worry i do the same thing. its just easier lol

Mr.Utah

you could probably buy a cheap timing light for $20?

rocklover

okay so update!!

I ran the compression test again the right way

Cylinder 1: 130
Cylinder 2: 125
Cylinder 2: 160
Cylinder 4: 120



I also bought a timing light and set the timing perfectly to 5'. I never realized it was so simple lol


But i am still having issues and they seemed to get worse when i set the timing. The timing was at 10' with the tripper in before I changed it.

I also pulled the vacuum on the FPR, it has good vaccum and no fuel leaked out when i revved it up.

I pulled the o2 sensor and the engine seemed to smooth out a lot, i am wondering if my problems are coming from a lean mixture but i want to test the fuel pressure first but i am having a hard time trying to figure out where to tap into the line and a kit that has the right things.

fierohink

I've had two different intermittent misses in the 10 years of having my 94. The first was caused by a chafed reverse light wire going over top of the trans, a little rtv to seal it up and the problem went away. That made my gauges peg and zero and I had hesitation occasionally. It was a total nightmare to track down too because after a while of deductive reasoning I was left with shotgunning parts at it.

The second miss occured a few days ago, and ended up with a $100 tow-bill to get home. Again a chafed wire, this time going to my 2nd o2 sensor (yes I know I have a cali and not all trucks have this). Apparently I misrouted it when I put my cab and bed back on and it melted going over the cat. Evidently the heating element in the o2 sensor draws it's power from the EFI circuit and when it eventually shorted out it took the EFI fuse with it, but up until then I had this weird random miss as the bare wires would rub against each other.

Just a thought, but look at your wiring harness not just components.

The MAN

you did short the two pins in the diagnostic connector before setting the timing right?

The MAN

yeah, it's very typical of many cars (at least Japanese only) to have the O2 heater circuit go through the EFI fuse

what's the reason for 2 O2 sensors in the cali version?
my van is federal emissions but is OBD1 and has 2 O2 sensors also! Weird! The manual doesn't seem to explain much either

SC T100

Ever get this figured out?