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Replacing W56 Transmission input bearing?

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Old 11-29-2006, 06:31 AM
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Replacing W56 Transmission input bearing?

Need some help from fellow members. 1986 4runner 22re w56 5spd tranny. I had a grind coming from the transmission and thought it was the clutch going out again. sounded like the throw out bearing making noise. Tore the old clutch out: new flywheel, pilot bearing, disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing, slave cylinder, and plastic shift ball on shifter. bolted it all back together and drove it around to wear it in. Everything was going working smooth, real slight grind that i thought was the new disc wearing in. Then i got on the highway for the second time... 1st,2nd,3rd,4th.... stuck.... shifter will not move out of 4th pulled pushed jiggled and jammed, nothing. after i got off the highway i only had a block to go to park it at work. Ever try starting out in 4th? talk about breaking in the new clutch. Tranny shop says its the input bearing that's shot $400 to rebuild if i bring it in. How hard would it be to replace input bearing myself? I know i've got the tools and mechanical capabilities but i've never opened the black box of a tranny. Is it worth just paying the 400 or can i save 300 by doing it myself? Also does anyone have the FSM portiong of the manual to do this or will i find it in the haynes manual?
THanks for the advice,
Old 11-29-2006, 06:37 AM
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i have a TSRM that covers the guts of a W56, i could look into scanning those pages for you. I think you could do it if you take it slow and document each step with digital photos so you can work your way backwards putting it back together. Worst comes to worst you should be able to take all the parts to that same trans shop and have them finish assembly

Last edited by NCSU-4runner; 11-29-2006 at 06:38 AM.
Old 11-30-2006, 04:51 PM
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Anyone else? Is 400 resonable? Has anyone else attempted this? How much has to come out or is it just the cover and the input shaft? HELP'

Thanks,
Old 12-01-2006, 12:48 AM
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I've seen "low mileage" (<150K) W56's on Craigslist around here for $150-$200. Assuming I could drive the truck it came out of first, I would go that route over having your current tranny gone through.
Old 12-02-2006, 04:59 AM
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Sounds like a viable option. That's what i did about a year ago when this happened, bought an entire truck for 200 stripped it and scraped the frame. But if i get another 20 years out of a rebuild or a year out of a another tranny. maybe long term i'd be better off with the rebuild, but i'll look and see what i find around here.
Old 12-02-2006, 05:26 PM
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If you can get it repaired for 400bux

I think that would be pretty good, But from the sound of your problem it's likely there is more to it than a bad input shaft brg.

I saw something like this quite some time ago that turned out that the trans was very low on oil and the input shaft was welded from friction to the output shaft.
Old 12-02-2006, 06:13 PM
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Well, do all bearings and synchros. But you will need some special pullers and dont even think about doint it without a repair manual unless you've done a bunch and have the things memorized.
Old 12-03-2006, 04:53 AM
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Thanks MDT that was the advice i needed. I don't have an FSM and i don't know if i'd have all the pullers, most but probably not all. On the upside i've i'll take the spare tranny in and then pull the locked up one when i'm ready to put the repaired one in.

THANKS, for the advice.
by the way, is 400 reasonable for this kind of work?
Old 12-03-2006, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TWolf
Thanks MDT that was the advice i needed. I don't have an FSM and i don't know if i'd have all the pullers, most but probably not all. On the upside i've i'll take the spare tranny in and then pull the locked up one when i'm ready to put the repaired one in.

THANKS, for the advice.
by the way, is 400 reasonable for this kind of work?
I dont know why it would be stuck in 4th, but it would have to come apart, either way. The 2 bearings that fail usuaily is the front input and the large rear of the mainshaft. About the same sized as the front. But I have noticed one has 6 balls, other uses 7 balls in the bearings. Otherwise, they are completely interchangeable. Toughest part would be removing 5th from the tail end of the output, and where the rest comes apart can be tricky. You will need a bearing seperater (sometimes called a clam) and pull the main shaft apart to do the synchors. Then there is the shift interlock system. Easy to do if you understand how it works, but confusing if you dont. With a factory repai maunal, clams, puller, and a press, you can do it yourself. Well, upside is you have an exhange unit to use till this one gets fixed.
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