Okay, i am still shopping around for parts for my truck.

When i put my lift on i plan on replacing a lot of the front suspension components (bushings and such) while the lift is off.

Now this is a pretty high mileage rig 247,000 miles on it so what all should be replaced. I should probably replace all the bushings for the front end. I want to replace the control arm bushings, probably the ball joints. Not too sure on what else needs to be replaced.

There is play in the steering wheel, and it doesn't like to coast straight, so i plan on fixing that!

Do you guys know a full bushing kit for the front ifs setup?
How about this one?

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch

Also what about tie rod ends how often do those need to be replaced?

What is a good brand for upper/lower ball joints and bushings, and tie rod ends if needed?

Thanks in advance!!!!!

 

if you want to replace the stuff in the front end do ALL the tie rod ends,and the ball joints...that's all you really need...as for the control arm bushings..."if it ain't broke don't fix it"

 

I just felt that while i am installing my lift and the stuff is apart i might as well replace the control arm bushings so i don't have to worry about it later. If not and i am saving some money not doing so then i won't.

Should i just wait till a bushing breaks, how ever long that might be then replace them then?


Also what brands are good ball joints and tie rods for the price/durability.

One thing ive noticed is some ball joints have those zerk fittings or whatever there called, is that beneficial compared to a non-zerk fitting?

 

the control arm bushings don't seem to go bad....at least out of the 16-20 poeple i wheel with that have yotas haven't broken any

 

Okay, about the tie rod ends!

If i grab mine, i can rotate them pretty darn easy and they squeak really bad! That means they are out right?

Should i just grab whatever brand i can. I hear moog is good but they are darn expensive. Some local 4wd shop has all four tie rod ends for $114 bucks, don't know what brand but i will probably go with them.

I have a set of upper ball joints that are laying around but i think they might be shot also. Therefore i plan on replacing the B-joints also.

Is there a particular brand? Will they all do? And should i get the ones with the zerk fittings?

 

yes your tie rod ends are shot, yes you should get greaseable ones...and any brand will do just remember you get what you pay for

 

Yes i know you get what you pay for, but i just didn't know whether or not paying around$600 bucks for Moog products is justifible, if other brands will work

 

Yes i know you get what you pay for, but i just didn't know whether or not paying around$600 bucks for Moog products is justifible, if other brands will work

BTW thanks for helping me out!

 

not sure thats alot of money...that could be a front or rear bumper...or even a set of tires...

 

I know!!

or a locker, or lockers (depending on which ones)

 

well usaly most auto part stores have 3 differnet brands...good,better,or best...depending on what it is i'll get the better or best....for TRE and BJ i would get the better...just my .02 cents

 

Yea,

When everybody says steering parts will break on ifs, is that usually tierods that break?

 

no usaly the idoler arm

 

Okay, so maybe i could just go with some "okay" tie rods and then just buy a idler arm brace!

 

that's what i would do...but if yo want a bullet proof idlor arm get this one...
http://www.chaosfab.com/product/acce...y4wd/95130.jpg
http://www.chaosfab.com/toyaccess_4wd.html
it's $325 but it will never break..or at least i haven't seen one break yet

 

That is BEEFY!!!!!!!!!!

I don't have $325 SO

I was thinking more along the lines of Downey:

http://downeyoff-road.com/Suspension...s/1986-95.html



I don't wheel my truck hard at all, so i was thinking going with downey.
But if i bought the $50 downey brace, and the idler arm still broke then i know what i would go with next!

 

if your a light wheeler...that will do

 

I just replaced all my tie rod ends, Pitman arm and idler arm. Got all these parts plus ball joints (upper and lower, both sides) for 220 bucks (including shipping and customs, which was 20 bucks(take off, eh!)) from World Suspension (dealership wanted 1400 plus)

http://stores.ebay.ca/World-Suspension

all parts came with grease nipples, even on bushings that did not have them before. A word of caution if you go this route, after installing the nipples (post install and removal from jackstands) I noticed the nipple for the inner tierod end on the passenger side is EXTREMELY close to the frame (id say 1 or 2 mms at most) so after I greased mine I pulled the nipple out and put a plug in it. It never rubbed but if I had it cranked a certain way and hit a "bump" I could see it snapping off or creating a custom anglenipple.

I also would have liked to replace the sleeve that the tie rods thread into, but didn't think about it until after I started ripping into everything.

Also Pitman arm was a ******** ******* ************ ******** ** ****** * ****** ********* **** to get off.
3 pullers, 2 popits, propane torch, about 300 slams with a bfh, finally a zip blade and a biggerfh and she decided to buck loose. best of luck to yous.

 

If you have a stock idler arm, you can rebuild it for under 10 bucks. Add the downey brace and you are set for a mild/moderate wheeler. A worn idler arm can cause a LOT of wierd steering problems, all of mine went away when I rebuilt mine.

 

Yea I saw your thread about rebuilding it, im thinking about it.