Replacing front brakes
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Replacing front brakes
I’m replacing the front brake pads on my ’90 22re 4x4 pickup, I’ve got the pads & all the tools needed- it’s been a while since I did a brake job, & that was on a FWD small car. Can anyone post a link to some step by step detailed instructions? I know there has to be something like this out there somewhere…..
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I just did my front pads, rotors and calipers on my 90 with manual hubs. You'll need a 54 mm or 2 1/8" socket to adjust the preload properly. I picked up the two gaskets for my hubs from the dealer for a couple bucks.
http://www.the-roo.com/4runner/Suspension/frontaxl.pdf
I found the easiest and fastest way to get the cone washers out is to hit the side of the hub with a rubber mallet and they shoot right out at you. Don't try the hammer and brass punch method it doesn't work very well. A quick tap on the side of the hub and the washers pop right out.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte..._end/teardown/
http://www.the-roo.com/4runner/Suspension/frontaxl.pdf
I found the easiest and fastest way to get the cone washers out is to hit the side of the hub with a rubber mallet and they shoot right out at you. Don't try the hammer and brass punch method it doesn't work very well. A quick tap on the side of the hub and the washers pop right out.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte..._end/teardown/
Last edited by pruney81; 04-01-2010 at 03:32 PM.
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Wait a minute I just re-read and realized you're only doing the pads. LOL. It's pretty easy they are just held in by a few clips and the old ones will slide right out and the new ones slide back in easy. Just put the pins back in the way they came out and you'll be fine.
#4
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this is funny cus I am in the middle of doing all 4 corners, hit a snag in the rear though. wheel cyl leaking got to replace those and maybe some brake lines lol. havent gotten to the front yet though. as I only have 2 jack stands.
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it can't be any easier to replace the front pads on a Toyota truck...
You don't even have to remove the caliper...
Just make sure you push the pads back with a pair of pliers 1st...
You don't even have to remove the caliper...
Just make sure you push the pads back with a pair of pliers 1st...
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but I forgot to ad... If you've added flied to it you could push it out of the reservoir pushing the pads back in...
1, watch that... And two, if you do get that stuff off ASAP. If you leave it there you'll wind up regretting it... Or at least the ppl that get the truck after you will...
1, watch that... And two, if you do get that stuff off ASAP. If you leave it there you'll wind up regretting it... Or at least the ppl that get the truck after you will...
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the pads on these Toyota's are the easiest I've ever had to deal with. When you have to take apart the manual hubs is when it becomes kind of task. At least it was for me anyways. Then, I found out both my calipers were seized so I had to replace those as well.
Yeah, you won't have to bleed anything, once you get the wheels off you'll see how easy it is going to be.
Yeah, you won't have to bleed anything, once you get the wheels off you'll see how easy it is going to be.
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thanks alot everyone- I'll let you guys know how it goes! my problem isn't that i'm stupid when it comes to this kinda stuff- it's that i've got an "i can't do it cuz i'll mess it up" complex that i'm slowly overcoming!
#12
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lol how in the heck are you supposed to get those dang pins out. I had a helluva time getting the top one out, now I can't get the bottom one out. Yes I tried a punch.
#13
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I hate working behind people who ever did these brakes last didn't replace the pins nor did they put the retaining cotter pins in for them. Also did not put the anti-squeel shims in. Knuckleheads are lucky the pins were shoved in there to begin with cus they would flew out !!!! Finally after a full day trying to the the dang thing out i resorted to taking a grinding wheel to the back side of the pin. Make sure you buy the front disc hardware kit and 4 of these pins with retaining clips:
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 04-03-2010 at 08:04 AM.
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I had to get new calipers so they came with new hardware. But, I've replaced pads before on Toyota's and just re-used the old hardware no problem. Also, I didn't put in the shims and haven't had any issues?
Are those shims really necessary?
Are those shims really necessary?
#15
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word of advise, if you don't wanna take the time to mess with the locking hubs, take them off in 1 piece, don't follow the fsm lol. I didn't have to as I am gonna have to do all of the wheel bearings and such when I do the CV's.
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too late, I already took them apart last week. lol It wasn't too bad actually, now I have a better idea of they work, plus someone was in there before and didn't replace the two gaskets on the hubs.
#17
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i retract my last statement. you have to take cover off then the hub itself. damn 12mm boltt in the way haha. but don't take the hub cover apart if you don't know how it goes back together. crossing my figures my right side still works lol.
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I'll tell you, I was pretty happy when I took my truck out after and tested the 4WD and everything worked. The hubs actually turn easier than before now. It took me about 6-7 hours to do both sides, pads, rotors and calipers. I think I could do that job in about half the time now.
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