?-Replacing the clutch cylinders
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?-Replacing the clutch cylinders
Hi all,
Recently my clutch has been spongy and and has been engaging in a very short throw. I took it in and it was diagnosed as needing the master cyl/slave cyl/lines being replaced as a result of clutch fluid contamination. They quoted me a price of $650 to replace these three items and that seemed kind of high to me. I see I can get both OEM toyota cylinders for <$150 and was wondering exactly how difficult it is to replace the master, slave, and clutch lines. I have the FSM but it just says all it takes is removing a couple bolts and replacing them. Wanted to make sure what was involved before getting in over my head. Also are any special tools required?
Thanks for the help,
Kelly
Recently my clutch has been spongy and and has been engaging in a very short throw. I took it in and it was diagnosed as needing the master cyl/slave cyl/lines being replaced as a result of clutch fluid contamination. They quoted me a price of $650 to replace these three items and that seemed kind of high to me. I see I can get both OEM toyota cylinders for <$150 and was wondering exactly how difficult it is to replace the master, slave, and clutch lines. I have the FSM but it just says all it takes is removing a couple bolts and replacing them. Wanted to make sure what was involved before getting in over my head. Also are any special tools required?
Thanks for the help,
Kelly
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They're easy. A 10mm line wrench is all you need that the average joe might not have. IMO you probably don't have to replace the hard line unless it's rusted.. just blow it out.
Did you or they flush it out with new fluid and bleed it? You may want to try that before you replace anything (unless you have visible leaks and stuff).
Did you or they flush it out with new fluid and bleed it? You may want to try that before you replace anything (unless you have visible leaks and stuff).
#3
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So who is it that's trying to steal from you?
Are your lines bad? - the hard lines - the only way they go bad is if they rust or get damaged.. It's possible but a bit unusual... At least from the inside out.
Replacing them is pretty easy... Just a bit time consuming: unbolt existing lines, try not to snag on anything, put them back in. I'll bet a junkyard would sell the lines for almost nothing.. They're not worth much.
Master cyl can be bought from Marlin Crawler.
Slave - OEM toyota is good.. I don't buy reman ones anymore.
$650 is robbery..
Are your lines bad? - the hard lines - the only way they go bad is if they rust or get damaged.. It's possible but a bit unusual... At least from the inside out.
Replacing them is pretty easy... Just a bit time consuming: unbolt existing lines, try not to snag on anything, put them back in. I'll bet a junkyard would sell the lines for almost nothing.. They're not worth much.
Master cyl can be bought from Marlin Crawler.
Slave - OEM toyota is good.. I don't buy reman ones anymore.
$650 is robbery..
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I took my truck in for a recall and that was the price quoted to me by the Stealership. Just called another local shop and they agreed that the line was unneccesary and that it would probably be $200 for parts+labor for the installation and the bleed. This is obviously a much more reasonable price.
Kelly
Kelly
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$650...yikes!!!
I put in the entire clutch system in my truck for about $100. Master Cyl, and Slave cyl about $32/ea from Autozone, hardline was about $25 (stealership), flex line $23 from a local hose shop.
It took me about an hour, hour and a half to set up my clutch. The only thing to make sure you have is a 10mm Flare Nut Wrench (rounding fluid lines = especially bad)
I put in the entire clutch system in my truck for about $100. Master Cyl, and Slave cyl about $32/ea from Autozone, hardline was about $25 (stealership), flex line $23 from a local hose shop.
It took me about an hour, hour and a half to set up my clutch. The only thing to make sure you have is a 10mm Flare Nut Wrench (rounding fluid lines = especially bad)
#10
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#11
Is there a step by step procedure to replace the clutch mc and sc? How does one bleed the system?
Never mind. Found it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...nder+procedure
Doesn't sound too tough. Gonna try it.
Here's another step-by-step
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...chmaintenance/
And FYI - "clutch fluid" is SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Never mind. Found it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...nder+procedure
Doesn't sound too tough. Gonna try it.
Here's another step-by-step
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...chmaintenance/
And FYI - "clutch fluid" is SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Last edited by Opie; 03-31-2007 at 01:02 PM.
#12
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I did mine the other night in less than an hour.
I replaced the master clutch cylinder two year ago and it went bad. didnt leak like the OEM one it replaced but the piston wouldnt glide smoothly, it would stick.. Found out the slave did the same thing. This made driving the truck miserable!!!! talk about hard to shift with a sticky ass clutch pedal, was noisy to
anyway.. advice? Dont buy aftermarket clutch parts! ha... I did however get a raybestos slave to replace the stock one.. this was before i put in my order to MArlin crawler and whatever, it goes bad ill get a new one from marlin.
anyhoo, hardline and that bit of flex hose at the slave should be fine, cant imagine it going bad. Just hook some hose on the slave, fill the master full of fluid .. put the hose in a cup of fluid (same as the 'one-man-bleeder' system you get a parts store). pump pump pump till all the airs out.Make sure you dont run the master dry in the process. =) it goes fast!
$650 LOL.. man that is insane
I replaced the master clutch cylinder two year ago and it went bad. didnt leak like the OEM one it replaced but the piston wouldnt glide smoothly, it would stick.. Found out the slave did the same thing. This made driving the truck miserable!!!! talk about hard to shift with a sticky ass clutch pedal, was noisy to
anyway.. advice? Dont buy aftermarket clutch parts! ha... I did however get a raybestos slave to replace the stock one.. this was before i put in my order to MArlin crawler and whatever, it goes bad ill get a new one from marlin.
anyhoo, hardline and that bit of flex hose at the slave should be fine, cant imagine it going bad. Just hook some hose on the slave, fill the master full of fluid .. put the hose in a cup of fluid (same as the 'one-man-bleeder' system you get a parts store). pump pump pump till all the airs out.Make sure you dont run the master dry in the process. =) it goes fast!
$650 LOL.. man that is insane
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